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We are apt to stereotype Sicily, the island at the toe of Italy’s boot. Yes, “Sicily,” and you hear the hum of violins from The Godfather, see the sun rim lighting vineyards, olive groves and stands of ancient cypress. Smell salty air. Sicily is all that, but to your mind palace add azure waves lapping limestone breaks at Cala Agliareddi near the bay San Vito Lo Capo in the shadow of Monte Cofano, and, 10 miles inland, the 1,800-acre magical wood of Bosco Scorace on the gentle slopes of Mount Abbatello, both on Sicily’s northwestern tip. It is here, climber, you wish to venture.
The bouldering sector of Bosco Scorace is just a few years old, but already three areas have been cleaned among the euclayptous; Bevaio, Astronave and Rocche Forbici, and you will be pleased to find 200 lines from 4A up to 8A+. Landings? Perfect. Movement: beautiful, both athletic and technical. There are even highballs if you are looking to experience “strong emotions.” And the rock, the rock! Perfect sandstone in shape and grain.
Afterwards, and after sending and naming your new problems, visit Davide and Giorgia, who run the Polvere di Stelle bed and breakfast four miles south. Stay in their renovated 1900s farmhouse and you’ll wake to a table of Auntie Gio’s home-baked cakes and local honey. And, since the couple discovered and developed Bosco Sorace, they can point you in the proper direction. If you brought a rope and draws, that compass point might be to the Never Sleeping Wall and Parco Cerriolo, tufaed limestone 20 minutes by car, or, if swimwear is your rack, to the five miles or rugged coastline at Cala Agliareddi.
Season: October to May, but even in the summer you can chase shade and DWS.