Winter Bouldering in BishopPhotos by Peter Franzen - Everyone knows Bishop by now The Buttermilks, the volcanic tablelands, the late-night campfires at the Pit, a bag of pastries from Schat's Bakery on the way through town. I had the good fortune to make the 14-hour drive from Oregon twice this winter, each time with a small group of good friends. From Trozell, whose trip marked her first time bouldering and her first climbing road trip, to Morgan, who's ever-growing to-do list still didn't get any shorter despite some truly inspiring effort. Each trip to the east side of the Sierras is a special one, and I always hope to capture a little bit of that in my photos when I head down there.
Unique Boulders in Tinos, GreecePhotos by Harald Roeker / GEBRO Verlag Publishing Located in the Cyclades archipelago lies Tinos, a Greek island inhabited by less than 9,000 people. Famous for the Church of Panagia Evangelistria, scores of windmills, and Venetian fortifications, Tinos also has incredible potential for bouldering. There are more than 500 established problems in the granite boulderfields on the island, with potential for thousands more. GEBRO Verlag (tinos.blocheart.de) provides information for anyone looking to visit. The best season for climbing is winter, but anytime from late autumn to spring provides good weather as well. The clean granite often needs no cleaning, and the boulders offer unique moves on distinctive blocs. The Surreal, Beautiful ButtermilksPhotos by Devlin Gandh - It's almost June, and that means the good temps in California are disappearing fast. Though we do have sunny weather, it isn't always the most conducive for climbing. With that in mind, it's no surprise to see a flurry of Bishop photos this time of year. This past season has been one of the most memorable in recent years, with Paul Robinson's new V16, Lucid Dreaming, second and third ascents of Ambrosia, and a surprise appearance by Chris Sharma (I'm pretty sure he warmed up doing Evilution to the lip [V10]). But the real joy of climbing in Bishop comes from the personal experience the Buttermilks are a surreal, beautiful boulderfield. And that, with the immaculate weather, sunrises, and sunsets of the Sierra Nevada, lingers on well past the experience. Dallas Rocks SCS Comp 2010Photos by Joshua King - Over 100 competitors filled Dallas Rocks on Saturday, April 17, in Dallas, Texas. The gym, known primarily for its bouldering, is the smallest SCS venue for the Texas/Louisiana region and had the biggest turnout for any local competition of the season. Many familiar faces were seen, with representatives from Carrollton's Team Texas, Houston's Stone Moves, Austin's Team ARG and Dallas Rocks' own Southern Rocks. For full results, click here.
Tech Tips - Technique - WALK (AND CLIMB) SOFTLYBy Bernadette Regan - Leaving the smallest desert trace possible - Partway up P1 of Community Pillar (5.8+), in Pine Creek Canyon, Red Rock, my partner looked down, cringing. It was time for his morning constitutional, and his look told me he wouldn't make it through the next 700 vertical feet. I lowered him and handed him the TP. He soon returned carrying a very full Ziploc. A few hours later, we were back on the ground, packing out his overloaded poop sack.Tech Tip - Training - TALES OF POWERBy Steve Bechtel - The real secret to effective power training - You can train long or you can train hard, but not both - which is probably why so many of us train power so wrongly. (By “power,” we mean the product of strength and speed, i.e., the explosive force recruited any time you use momentum, or “go for it.”) Properly training power allows you to get stronger - to muckle through otherwise impossible cruxes.
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Jimmy Webb 7th to Send JadeVideo by John Gass - A sending spree on Rocky Mountain National Park's Jade might be in order. Jimmy Webb grabbed the seventh ascent of the Daniel Woods problem on June 8, just weeks after Carlo Traversi climbed its notoriously crimpy sequence. "The weather was basically awful, and I still had two small split tips," blogged Webb. "On my first attempt, though, I surprised myself by sticking the crux move." He then climbed it his second go of the day, even though he "pulled on feeling worse than ever."Vail Bouldering World Cup Men's FinalsVideo by Jon Glassberg / Louder Than 11 - Boulder local Daniel Woods took first at the Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado, on Saturday, the first victory for an American male at Vail in its three years. Woods kept the audience psyched, being the only male to top out two boulders and getting the highpoint on #4. Japan's Tsukuru Hori took second, with Kilian Fischhuber from Austria rounding out the podium.Vail Bouldering World Cup Women's FinalsVideo by Jon Glassberg / Louder than 11 - As the only Bouldering World Cup held on U.S. soil in Vail, Colorado, came to an end Saturday, Belgium's Chloe Graftiaux represented the top spot on the women's podium. The competition was fierce, with all climbers completing the same number of problems and bonus holds, but Graftiaux's fewest attempts in the field decided her win. Anna Stohr from Austria came in a close second, having been in the #1 seat coming into finals. Boulder World Cup 2010 report #2 - Vienna Video by Udo Neumann - Kilian Fischhuber won the men's event by a bigger margin this time, doing one more problem than Adam Ondra in the semis as well as in the finals. We saw a stunning display of Asian bouldering by Akiyo Noguchi, Momoka Oda, and Ja-In Kim from Korea. Alexey Rubtsov finished third behind Ondra, with American Alex Johnson finishing sixth overall.
2000 Pixel - High Rez ImagesPhotos by Celin Serbo, Andy Chasteen, Stéphan Denys, Simon Carter, Tim Kemple, Michael Clark, Jay Beyer, Corey Rich, Frederic Moix, John Burcham, John Dickey, Shawn Reeder, Joe Irons, Jim Thornburg, Keith Ladzinski, Hermann Erber, Jozef Kopold, Andrew Burr, Cody Blair, Jim Thornburg, Des Rubens ...