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This story originally appeared in the May 2015 issue of our print edition.
The perfect breakfast is quick to make and delivers long-lasting energy. Major bonus points for being tasty, fun to eat, and not so heavy that it hits your gut like a brick and turns your redpoint attempt into a nap in the back of the van (we’re looking at you, biscuits and gravy!). Enter the perfect packable meal: banana waffles! With a few tasty additions, these surprisingly portable squares of goodness can offer the complete nutritious breakfast package for climbers. One serving (a 2” x 2” square) is about 112 calories, with carbohydrates for quick energy, protein for slow-burning energy, and enough moisture to make them easy to digest. Personalize the recipe with honey, Nutella, peanut butter, jelly, fruit, nuts—you name it. And if you’re not a fan of gluten, good news because with rice flour and gluten-free bread crumbs, these are completely void of gluten. Wrap them up to eat on the road, tuck away in your pack, or store them in the fridge for the week. And no excuses about being too short on time to cook—they only take 20 minutes to make.
- 1 cup coarse, gluten-free bread crumbs
- ½ cup white rice flour
- ¼ cup almond milk
- ¼ cup ground almonds
- Pinch of ground nutmeg
- 1 tablespoon brown sugar
- 2 eggs, lightly beaten
- 1 large ripe banana
Prep by heating up your waffle iron. Place the dry ingredients into a food processor and pulse to mix. Crack the eggs into a small bowl, add almond milk, and stir briskly. Put this into the food processor, add the banana, and pulse. Batter should be smooth and somewhat dense. Pour the batter into the waffle iron until the squares fill up, keeping in mind that the batter will expand when pressed. Cook until the outside of the waffle feels crisp. Repeat this process. Cut into 2” x 2” squares, touch up with your favorite toppings or spreads, and enjoy, or let them cool completely before wrapping individually.
NOTE: If you have nut allergies, you can easily remove the almonds and change the milk without sacrificing taste.
Nutrition Facts (per serving, 1/8 of total amount)
Energy: 112 cal • Carbs: 17g • Fat: 3g • Protein: 4g • Fiber: 1g • Sodium: 60mg
Breakfast of Champions
You’re going to eat a lot of breakfast over the course of your climbing life. From comp crushers to trad enthusiasts, eight pro climbers give us more ideas for fueling the send.
“EGGS! Always the best breakfast. With veggies, on their own, with fruit, boiled, scrambled, poached. Mixed with banana and desiccated coconut to make nice, filling pancakes on a rest day. On a really cold day, boil two, eat one, and take the second in your pocket to keep your hands warm.”
“I used to love egg scrambles for breakfast, but now I’m more into cereal. Or granola with some fruit, hemp hearts, and almond milk. Some kind of wholesome, non-dairy cereal concoction is my favorite.”
“Breakfast is my favorite meal, and it’s a toss-up between eggs with cheese and Sriracha and French toast! Coffee is a must; I prefer a nice cappuccino.”
“Good German bread with quark (a kind of thick yogurt) and jam/honey, fruit, and lots of tea. Sometimes as well I do an omelet with cheese and ham.”
“Fresh fruit (preferably berries and bananas), natural low-fat yogurt (quark when I am in Europe), and some cereal with nuts and seeds. I am also a big fan of smoothies with fruit, yogurt, juice, and a little protein powder. And I do really like eggs, so for an extravagant breakfast, add some bacon and fresh fruit. If I am looking at a really long day, I throw in a real treat, like cinnamon rolls or French pain au chocolat! Breakfast is the best meal of the day, so enjoy it!”
“Most days, on the road or otherwise, I cook up veggies like broccoli, onions, carrots, chard, mushrooms, or asparagus, and then scramble in eggs or just fry a couple eggs on the side. Goat cheese and honey has also been a favorite morning routine since my last trip to France.”
“I usually like a fast, no-hassle breakfast, so I’ll cook up some turkey kielbasa or bacon and pair it with avocado slices. I also like to make huge batches of oatmeal banana pancakes to grab on the go throughout the week. No matter what I eat, black coffee is a must for breakfast time.”
“The eggadilla! Butter the frying pan, crack two eggs, break yolks, put a tortilla on the eggs as they cook, and gently press down. The tortilla sticks to the eggs as they harden so you can flip it over, add cheese, fold in half, and you have cleanup-free deliciousness!”