This is part four of a weekly five part series about outside elbow pain (lateral epicondylosis). View the rest of the series at Outside Elbow Pain.
The Rock Rehab Pyramid is a step-by-step rehabilitation and injury prevention plan designed specifically for rock climbers. The goal of the four-phase process is to take you from the pain, inflammation and tissue overload stage to gain full mobility, strength, and eventually pain-free climbing movement. It is featured in the new book by Dr. Jared Vagy DPT, Climb Injury-Free.
In Outside Elbow Pain (Part 3): Improve Mobility, we covered mobility, the second phase of the Rock Rehab Pyramid. Now we’ll take a look at strength, the third phase of the Rock Rehab Pyramid. Once you have gained your full mobility, you can begin to strengthen your muscles within your newly acquired range of motion. The strength exercises that are used to treat outside elbow pain utilize two forms of muscle contraction: concentric and eccentric. A concentric contraction is when the muscle shortens to create movement while an eccentric contraction is when the muscle lengths to control movement.
Watch the two videos below featuring professional climber Jonathan Siegrist. The videos address the strength phase of the pyramid to treat outside elbow pain, medically known as lateral epicondylosis.
Strength Level 1
Strength Level 2
Dr. Jared Vagy is a doctor of physical therapy and professor at the University of Southern California. His book, Climb Injury Free: A Proven Injury Prevention and Rehabilitation System teaches you how to climb even stronger without getting hurt.
For more information, visit: theclimbingdoctor.com