When faced with old, hangerless bolt studs, bring zip ties. Place a wire rivet hanger or small wired nut over the bolt stud, then place a zip tie over the stud and cinch it tight. If subsequent studs are the same size, you can wiggle off then reuse the zip tie.
Use your cell phone as a headlamp if you don't have one. Just strap it to your helmet with tape.
Want to display your belay/lead tag at the gym without having it get in the way? Instead of hitching it to a gear loop, take an old biner and clip it there. This becomes your designated “gym gear” biner to hold the belay tag, belay glasses, water bottle, etc.
When rappelling, I like to set up my hands-free knot (autoblock is my choice) before dealing with my ATC. Pull up enough slack, then tie your prussik/autoblock/klemheist. Not only does this habit mean you have your backup, it also makes it much easier to subsequently thread then clip your ATC since you won’t be fighting the weight of the rope.
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Got any home remedies (self-care, massage, stretching, etc.) or tips for injury prevention or recovery after a big day climbing? Then email us at firstname.lastname@example.org to submit your tip. The best tip as selected by us in the next issue will win an Armaid Complete (MSRP $140; armaid.com).
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