How the World’s Boldest Climbing Area Got that Way
How headpointing became a legitimate, go-to tactic on Peak District gritstone.
Headpoint
Watch Hazel Findlay Return to 5.13 R, 9 Years After Grisly Decking
“But watching them climb got me psyched, and the upper crux felt very easy on top rope, so I thought I should just go for it.”
Having a Project Made Me a “Dumb” Climber
Learning how to try hard is hard. And it’s so easy to be stupid.
Molly Mitchell Sends “Crank It” (5.13+) Two Years After Groundfall
After breaking her back trying to climb "Crank It" (5.13d) sans bolts, Molly Mitchell fought her way back to the sharp end... then opted for a re-match.
Weekend Whipper: A 5.12 Rock Route That’s Protected By … An Ice Screw?
"This particular route has three pegs and an ice screw—which apparently fit really well in a pocket, so there it stayed."
Anna Hazelnutt Ticks Once Upon a Time in the Southwest (5.13 R) For First Serious Trad Lead
The American worked the route with U.K. climber Tom Randall, who sent on the same day.
To Bolt or Not to Bolt? The Frightful Story of Air China (5.13+ R)
Check out Matt Segal's author page.
Neil Gresham’s “Lexicon” Is 5.14 With 80-Foot Fall Potential
Lexicon has an unmistakable fear factor: biff it on any one of the final four moves—the crux, of course—and face a massive swinging fall.
Video: Dave MacLeod Gives Masterclass Lesson in Hard, Dangerous Trad FA
Check out Anthony Walsh's author page.
Will Stanhope Establishes an Airy 5.13+ R on Squamish’s Stawamus Chief
Check out Anthony Walsh's author page.