Is the British E-Grade Broken? And Can an Algorithm Fix It?
Neil Gresham explains the often-baffling British grading system—and why the “eGrader” app can keep it afloat.
Neil Gresham explains the often-baffling British grading system—and why the “eGrader” app can keep it afloat.
Endurance can’t be built quickly, yet at some point most of us find ourselves in a jam, with a trip booked and only a few weeks to prepare. What are the best, quick strategies for making the grade?
The 5.14 crux is firmly situated in the no-fall zone, but that hasn't stopped many of the UK's best from having a go.
Climbing outside is pretty different from the gym. The holds aren't color-coordinated. The feet are smaller. The crimps are sharp. But these four tips can ease your transition outside.
There's a time and place for static moves. But what do of the world's strongest climbers have in common? They are very good at moving dynamically.
Lexicon has an unmistakable fear factor: biff it on any one of the final four moves—the crux, of course—and face a massive swinging fall.
You want to redpoint your project, but the crag is a day's travel away, you have a job and family commitments. How do you get the ultimate send that you want while maintaining everything else?
Lockoffs, deadhangs, static stretching .... it's all wrong and you aren't helping yourself by continuing to do the same things and expecting different and better results. Stop it!
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