The Splitter Cracks and Mind-Boggling Movement in Unaweep Canyon
The secret history and modern rebirth of Western Colorado’s sleepy Unaweep Canyon.
The secret history and modern rebirth of Western Colorado’s sleepy Unaweep Canyon.
Accidents happen. Every climber should be able to troubleshoot difficult rappel situations, and one of the best ways is by mastering the buddy rappel.
This article was originally published in Climbing No 371. It's appearing now in front of the paywall for the first time.
With perhaps the exception of Rumney, Lone Rock may possess New England’s highest concentration of 5.13-on-up sport climbs for a wall its size.
In the Elbe River Valley they were climbing 5.9+ by 1905 and 5.10+/5.11 by 1922. And they were doing this with knotted slings as pro.
Back in 1979, tower trips could be serious business. Spring-loaded cams had yet to debut. Falls were rare, but potential air was huge.
“It only takes a few people a year to really do some damage.”
The route features hard slab, 5.13+ seams, and a 5.13c finger crack of such high quality that the climbers named the ropelength "As Good as It Gets."
"Female climbers are often less confident than their male counterparts, but it’s nurture, not nature. And that’s something we can beat."
How headpointing became a legitimate, go-to tactic on Peak District gritstone.
In recent years, there has been an uptick in indoor-bouldering injuries among newer climbers. Use these tips to help you boulder safely without getting injured.
Peter Habeler and Reinhold Messner took alpine tactics to the Himalaya, blowing minds and redefining the sport itself. Over 40 years later, they speak about the first oxygenless ascent of Everest, and the rift that broke up the greatest climbing partnership of all time.
Kettlebells are among the best supplemental workouts for targeting climbing fitness. They're also convenient and fast.
An ice climber, a trad climber, a boulderer, and a sport climbing visit a fortune teller and learn their fates.
You can climb even harder when you get older, but you need to follow a specific training plan that balances endurance, strength, and power equally—emphasis on plan.
Jim Erickson looks back on the past half century to chronicle how the gear we rely on has changed and improved over the years.
The science behind fear and how to overcome it to achieve your climbing goals.
A quiet "third-classing" competition took place in the summer of 1985 in the Gunks, culminating in the author's free solo of the ultra-classic "Supercrack" 5.12c.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
From better boinking to a cleaner way to fill your chalk bag, savor these tips from climbers like you.
A routine climb in the Canadian Rockies turns nightmarish when a grizzly bear has two climbers scrambling for their lives.
Dakota Walz set out in 2019 to climb 5,280 vertical feet of first ascents in the American Southwest. Along the way, he faced uncertainty, fear, doubt, loose rock, and runouts—and many times wondered: Is the project even worth it? In the end, he learned it was the process that mattered—not just the summits.
Check out Jonathan Vickers's author page.
Check out Jonathan Vickers's author page.
Check out Jonathan Vickers's author page.
Check out Jonathan Vickers's author page.
Climbing and Rock and Ice Have Merged—Now What?
Paul Robinson details his 17-year journey to send 1,000 8a-or-harder boulder problems.
In Kenya’s far north, the semi-nomadic Samburu tribesmen are exploring their ancestral landscape in a radical new direction—vertically.
Adventuring on the sea cliffs of southern Wales
What you should know about relative energy deficiency in sport (RED-S)
Check out Bernd Zangerl's author page.
Make climbing great again
V16 boulderer, 5.15b route climber, former East Coast prodigy. FAs of ~700 boulders V11 and up, including a dozen V15s. Age 39, lives in Spain, Switzerland, and Colorado.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Matt Samet's author page.
Check out Michael Levy's author page.
Check out Matt Samet's author page.
Review: Trango Agility 9.1 (70m)
Check out Dakota Walz's author page.
Molly Mitchell shares her journey to climb China Doll (5.14 R) while navigating generalized anxiety disorder.
The Utah visionary opens up about his four decades on the rock, a return to his nemesis climb, the craft of photography, and the search for the next great thing.
Check out Aaron Gerry's author page.
Understand, manage, and channel your anger to climb your hardest
The ties that bind
Check out Hannah Gartner's author page.
Check out Tanager's author page.
Check out Shelma Jun's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Ula Chrobak's author page.
Check out Matt Samet's author page.
Check out Kristin Bjornsen's author page.
Check out Matt Samet's author page.
Check out Kristin Bjornsen's author page.
Check out Kristoffer Schmarr's author page.
Check out Matt Samet's author page.
Check out Matt Samet's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
The price of freedom on the East Face of Washington’s Liberty Bell
The steep, wild, multipitch conglomerate of Los Mallos de Riglos in the hills of Northern Spain
Jimmy Webb would be the last person to tell you that he’s sent more V16s than almost any other American. Credit that humility—and the work ethic that earned him those ticks—to his Tennessee roots.
Check out Ari Schneider's author page.
Check out Corey Buhay's author page.
Escaping the trap of outdated ethics
Check out Alyssa Neill, RDN's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Michael Pronzato's author page.
Check out Chris Kalman's author page.
Check out Ula Chrobak's author page.
Check out Matt Samet's author page.
Check out Kevin Riley's author page.
Check out Lindsay Wescott's author page.
Check out Matt Samet's author page.
Check out Kevin Riley's author page.