Once the training and physical preparation are done, and we’re at the crag in front of our objective, sending just isn't about strength. We have to cultivate a presence of mind, relax into our bodies, and climb at our peak of performance. All of which requires... breath.
I asked the old man for advice, and he came through with five tried and true panaceas.
Getting old can be a real mind warp: you train just as hard, you rest more, you clean up your diet. And nevertheless, you get weaker. By the end of the 2021 season, at age 48, I knew something had to give.
Hard climbing brings out the best in people. It also brings out the worst. If (when) things go south, here's how to turn it around.
We are all our own worst enemies. Here’s how to get off your own toes and send.
Want to climb harder? You'll probably need these mental tricks.
Nothing beats the feeling of piecing together a redpoint ascent. Here's a basic strategy for effectively working—and sending—your dream rig!
Keep one-hanging your project? Or feeling stuck? Here are eight easy tips for finally clipping the chains.
Visualization techniques for improving recovery and pushing limits.
Falling is part of climbing. But so, occasionally, is not falling.
Salas has lived with blindness since age 14. After climbing for three years, he became the first paraclimber to tick V11. His tips are useful for seeing and blind climbers alike.
You want to redpoint your project, but the crag is a day's travel away, you have a job and family commitments. How do you get the ultimate send that you want while maintaining everything else?