Why Drew Ruana’s Frustration is… Inspiring
Ruana's 17-day battle with "The Ice Knife Stand" (V15) is a great reminder of why I don't siege nemesis boulders... and some other things too.
Ruana's 17-day battle with "The Ice Knife Stand" (V15) is a great reminder of why I don't siege nemesis boulders... and some other things too.
Once the training and physical preparation are done, and we’re at the crag in front of our objective, sending just isn't about strength. We have to cultivate a presence of mind, relax into our bodies, and climb at our peak of performance. All of which requires... breath.
Projecting climbing routes isn’t widely taught, so how do you learn this complicated art?
The projecting process is hard enough. Here are five mistakes I’ve personally made on more than one occasion. Do as I say and not as I do.
An ode to the routes that got away—and what they can teach us if we let them.
I asked the old man for advice, and he came through with five tried and true panaceas.
Getting old can be a real mind warp: you train just as hard, you rest more, you clean up your diet. And nevertheless, you get weaker. By the end of the 2021 season, at age 48, I knew something had to give.
Hard climbing brings out the best in people. It also brings out the worst. If (when) things go south, here's how to turn it around.
Tactics for that next-level super hard route.
The difference between rage quitting and quiet quitting
Everyone is different, but these training precepts seem to stick no matter who you are or what your goals are.
If you don't onsight 5.14, but instead toil like the lowest of serfs on routes of lesser grades, read on. I can give you the psychological edge to succeed.
He had big goals. The trip was going to be a veritable sendfest. It wasn't, but it taught him an invaluable lesson 40 years in the making that can change how we view success (and failure).
We are all our own worst enemies. Here’s how to get off your own toes and send.
Learning how to try hard is hard. And it’s so easy to be stupid.
Want to climb harder? You'll probably need these mental tricks.
Nothing beats the feeling of piecing together a redpoint ascent. Here's a basic strategy for effectively working—and sending—your dream rig!
Keep one-hanging your project? Or feeling stuck? Here are eight easy tips for finally clipping the chains.
The why, when, and how to shaking off the pump.
Visualization techniques for improving recovery and pushing limits.
Falling is part of climbing. But so, occasionally, is not falling.
Salas has lived with blindness since age 14. After climbing for three years, he became the first paraclimber to tick V11. His tips are useful for seeing and blind climbers alike.
You want to redpoint your project, but the crag is a day's travel away, you have a job and family commitments. How do you get the ultimate send that you want while maintaining everything else?