Trad Climbing Skills

Use this expert advice to never lose touch with your partner on a long route.

It seems simple in theory—throw your heel around a hold or feature to use those powerful leg muscles to pull you into the wall—but it’s much more nuanced in practice. Here's how to perfect it.

Aid climbing is the one sure-fire way to accelerate the trad climbing learning curve

Progress capture devices can be used to save energy and climb harder on big alpine routes.

Dropped, forgotten, or mysteriously vanished gear can ruin a climbing day. Worst case, it can be life-threatening. But with a little know-how, you can recover from bone-headed mistakes and keep climbing—and also impress friends with your savvy.

Master the standard knot for tying in to the rope

The tougher you are mentally, the easier tough things will feel and the quicker you can recalibrate in the face of adversity.

Crack climbing wizard JP “Peewee” Ouellet shares how to use rubber, tape, and glue to climb off-size splitters without destroying your skin.

Use these methods for better rappelling—and rap backups.

This versatile hitch has a myriad uses. Here's yet another one.

Use a long cordelette or sling to create a fast, safe, and easy self-equalizing quad anchor

Want to enhance your rappelling skillset? Build better anchors? Perfect your gear placements? Crush your first multi-pitch?

Check out Julie Ellison's author page.

If you’re an aspiring trad leader, this document will provide you with more bad advice than you can shake a rack of hexes at.

Uneven stances, hanging belays, anchors, roots and rocks your rope can snag on...belaying outside is full of hazards that aren't replicated in the gym. Here are some strategies to keep both the climber and belayer safe and secure.

Is it true that the most effective way to improve your climbing is to simply climb? Yes. At least up to a certain point.

Professional mountain guide Rob Coppolillo explains four ways simul-rappelling can be unsafe and why it might not actually save time.

Most of us learn to feel comfortable on finger and hand jams relatively quickly. But off-hands? Fists? Corners? Those techniques don't come quite as easily.

Prevent extended gear from coming unclipped

Check out Rob Pizem's author page.

Build your knowledge base with these tips from AMGA Certified Rock guide Elaina Arenz.

Check out Climbing Staff's author page.

Everyone gets their rope stuck at some point. Internationally certified mountain guide Marc Chauvin recommends two solutions to help you solve most stuck rappels.

Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.

Assign point values to each piece in an anchor to assess overall reliability

Internationally certified mountain guide Marc Chauvin explains how to prioritize which gear to use while leading a route.

Professional mountain guide Marc Chauvin describes a simple technique to steady a scary rappel.

Internationally certified mountain guide Marc Chauvin explains how to protect your follower on a trad route.

Internationally certified mountain guide Rob Coppolillo explains how extending your protective gear can help avoid accidents.

Learn to lower a climber while using a belay device in guide mode

Improve multi-pitch communication by adjusting belay position

Follow these tips for success on long climbs.

More fundamentals for multi-pitch awesomeness to get you to the top—and back down—safely.

Check out Julie Ellison's author page.

Check out Julie Ellison's author page.

Check out Julie Ellison's author page.

Check out Ryan Siacci, Esq.'s author page.

Check out Kel Rossiter's author page.

Learn to climb upside down for steep, wide cracks.

Check out Climbing Staff's author page.

Check out Climbing Staff's author page.

Carry less gear by building a solid anchor with the rope

How to descend safely with a haulbag

"Having one leg created new balance points, and understanding them was crucial for progressing to the point where I am able to climb routes now that I wasn’t able to climb pre-accident."

Follow these guidelines to maximize rappel safety

Check out Julie Ellison's author page.

How to handle big, cumbersome pro for wide cracks.

Check out Julie Ellison's author page.

Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.

Check out Matt Samet's author page.