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Adam Ondra: I Climb Harder When I don’t Think

Adam Ondra writes: “One more little video from Margalef from my October/November trip. This time we will go back to the sunny side of Margalef. Towards the end of the trip, I was happy to make the first ascent of Directa Bongada 9a [5.14d]. It links the hard first part of Directa Rodillar and all the hard parts of La Bongada. I made the FA of Directa Rodillar at the beginning of that trip and I proposed 8c+/9a [5.14c/d], but in January it was repeated by the strong Vojta Trojan who thought it was more of an 8c/c+ [5.14b/c]. Nevertheless, you must make a way harder start into the La Bongada, but there is (unfortunately?) a big rest in between. Cool route and cool moment during the sunset. Enjoy!”

Summary

  • 0:00 – Intro
  • 0:21 – Margalef sunset beauty shots
  • 0:39 – Dorecta Bongada route info
  • 1:02 – Climb starts
  • 1:53 – A pogo jump
  • 2:28 – Resting in kneebar
  • 3:05 – When to climb a harder route on a south side
  • 3:42 – Not to think for the best performance
  • 4:20 – Crux of La Bongada
  • 5:57 – Route top