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Adam Ondra: I Climb Harder When I don’t Think

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Adam Ondra writes: “One more little video from Margalef from my October/November trip. This time we will go back to the sunny side of Margalef. Towards the end of the trip, I was happy to make the first ascent of Directa Bongada 9a [5.14d]. It links the hard first part of Directa Rodillar and all the hard parts of La Bongada. I made the FA of Directa Rodillar at the beginning of that trip and I proposed 8c+/9a [5.14c/d], but in January it was repeated by the strong Vojta Trojan who thought it was more of an 8c/c+ [5.14b/c]. Nevertheless, you must make a way harder start into the La Bongada, but there is (unfortunately?) a big rest in between. Cool route and cool moment during the sunset. Enjoy!”

Summary

  • 0:00 – Intro
  • 0:21 – Margalef sunset beauty shots
  • 0:39 – Dorecta Bongada route info
  • 1:02 – Climb starts
  • 1:53 – A pogo jump
  • 2:28 – Resting in kneebar
  • 3:05 – When to climb a harder route on a south side
  • 3:42 – Not to think for the best performance
  • 4:20 – Crux of La Bongada
  • 5:57 – Route top

Film: How Matt Cornell Free Soloed One of America’s Classic Hard Mixed Routes

"The Nutcracker" explores the mental challenges of solo climbing and the tactics Cornell used to help him send the route.