Adam Ondra: How I Grade Routes

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Adam Ondra provides some insight to his route-grading philosophy. He discusses all of the factors  that go into the decision, including conditions, height, style, etc. He explains the different reasons grades can change. He gets into the historical progression of climbing grades, and why he doesn't expect to climb Font 10b [5.16d]. And he also explains why he believes grades should ignore the mental difficulty of a route or boulder problem.