Committed: Mt. Moran's Direct South Buttress


Mt Moran's Direct South Buttress (HD Version) from Mark Smiley on Vimeo.

The route wanders up and left, then right, then up to a scary old bolt anchor at a hanging belay. Next was the much-talked-about “double-pendulum pitch,” which required that we swing from these 50-year-old bolts making the anchor! It was my turn to lead, so I got to see if the bolts would hold. Making it through the pendulum, I reached a corner system of rock. The only weakness in the rock angles out and up around a overhang. This pitch goes at 5.12 or A1. By pulling on insecure pitons and a stopper one-fourth of the way in the rock, I was able to slowly make upward progress. A fall would smash me into the left side of rock corner. Read the rest of the trip report: