Eiger North Face - Russian Route (VI A5) Attempt


In March 2013, Ross Kain, Andy Kirkpatrick, and Neil Chelton attempted a repeat of the Russian Direttissima route (VI A5, 52 pitches) up the north face of the Eiger. The Russian team Vladimir Arkhipov, Eugeny Dmitrienko, Piotr Malygin, and Dmitry Tsyganov climbed this new route that went between the Harlin Route and Metanoia; their ascent took 14 days. Kain, Kirkpatrick, and Chelton climbed 20 pitches over four days, but they were turned away by the A5 crux pitch and warm weather, which caused rockfall.