Deverse, also called Pupuce Surplomb (the name of an early aid route) is the hardest cliff, in term of difficulty, in France's Gorges du Loup. The first free route was Déversé Satanique, open by Bernard Duterte in the mid 1980’s. Now graded 8a+ (which may be a tad soft) it remains a fantastic climb. Shown here is Philippe Gatta on Qoussaï and on Déversé Satanique, both 8a+ or 5.13c, plus his wife Anna Gatta on Mekanik Destruktive Komando (7c or 5.12d) all at the Deverse Sector in the Gorges du Loup, France.
Deverse offer 50 routes above 8a (5.13b), including three 9a (5.14d): KinematiX (first ascent by Andreas Bindhammer), Abyss (opened and first ascent by Alex Chabot) and PuntX (opened by Cédric Lo Piccolo and first ascent by Alex Chabot). Deverse is a summer cliff. The conditions are pleasant, even when it is 30 degrees Celsius on the Riviera, thanks to the shade and a constant light wind.
For more information visit www.philippegatta.fr
Philippe Gatta on Qoussaï (8a+), Gorges du Loup, France. Video by Anna Gatta / www.philippegatta.fr
Anna Gatta on in Mekanik Destruktive Komando (7c), Gorges du Loup, France. Video by Philippe Gatta / www.philippegatta.fr
Philippe Gatta on Déversé Satanique (8a+), Gorges du Loup, France. Video by G. Richter courtesy of www.philippegatta.fr