It's the beginning of the climbing season for some. Others are stuck in the gym dreaming of the real thing. For the fortunate ones who can ditch their jobs and classes, there's year-round fun chasing the best temps at the best crags. Home to world-class crack climbing and more than 60 bouldering satellites, Oregon hides under the radar of many travelers. The quest for new areas has left many classic crags like Smith Rock forgotten by the climbing masses. Yet there's year-round climbing, time-honored testpieces, and stellar untapped projects.
Oreganic Volume 2 leads off with a bit of a twist. A few Bend dirtbags take it to the neighboring state of Idaho. Ryan Palo briefs us on some basic boy scout skills before swingin’ like an udder from Riggin’s own limestone cave.
On deck, Ethan Pringle charges Scarface, Smith Rock, with an obscure sequence, skipping the famous mono move. Scarface has been recognized as the first 5.14a established by an American on U.S. soil. After Scott Franklin did the first ascent in 1988, Todd Skinner and Throwin’ The Houlihan in Wild Iris, Wyoming joined the ranks in 1991. After a brief down-rating to 13d, Scarface is still among the most classic hard routes in the world, holding its grade at 5.14a.
As a closer, Cody Scarpella pushes a new Trout Creek line. Weeks later Cody proudly claimed the first ascent of the ultra-classic May Fly (5.12+).