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Pioneering Smith Rock: Alan Watts and the Birth of US Sport Climbing

Heading out the door? Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members! Download the app.

Alan Watts is the climbing pioneer who brought sport climbing to Smith Rock, Oregon. Watts eschewed the time period’s ethics, bolting routes on rappel, to push standards higher. This short film, created by Matt Klein, delves into Watts’s experiences in developing a sport that has grown significantly. 

Film: How Matt Cornell Free Soloed One of America’s Classic Hard Mixed Routes

"The Nutcracker" explores the mental challenges of solo climbing and the tactics Cornell used to help him send the route.