Reclimbing The Classics: Watch Mirko Caballero Climb Grand Illusion (5.13b)


In 1979, hangdogging was frowned upon. Tony Yaniro was determined to send Grand Illusion (5.13b), but he couldn't do it solely with ground-up burns. The solution: a homemade wooden replica of the crack. Yaniro practiced the jams every day until he was able to send it in one go on three pieces of pre-placed gear. It was considered the most difficult route in the world at the time. In this video, Yaniro returns to the route to accompany 13-year-old phenom Mirko Caballero on his attempt of the notorious granite finger crack.