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Stormbringer: No Retreat Ice Climbing in Norway

Heading out the door? Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members! Download the app.

After two previous failed attempts, Tanja Schmitt, Heike Schmitt, and Matthias Scherer determined that only a “no retreat” mentality could drive them to ascend the monstrous, ever-changing ice line Fjåne Fossenin vain in Eidfjord, Norway. After, they continued on, riding out a burst of raw energy to make the make the first ascent of Stormbringer (WI6+), the next line over.

Film: How Matt Cornell Free Soloed One of America’s Classic Hard Mixed Routes

"The Nutcracker" explores the mental challenges of solo climbing and the tactics Cornell used to help him send the route.