Last week Adam Ondra announced that he's projecting Perfecto Mundo (5.15c) in Margalef, Catalonia, Spain. The iconic route was bolted by Chris Sharma, and then first climbed by Alex Megos in 2018. Since then, Ondra has begun putting out regular videos about his progress on the routes. Check out the two latest below.
Part 2: Small Thing Big Deal
Ondra writes: "There are many factors that affect your outdoor climbing performance. One of them is the state of the skin on your fingertips. Perfecto Mundo is quite sharp and maintaining good skin is absolutely crucial. Watch the next episode to see more about my split fingertip and how it went on day two."
Part 3: Weather Change
Ondra writes: "It was nice to enjoy a rest day. I saw some other routes in the close area, although I felt super excited to hit Perfecto Mundo (9b+, 5.15c) again. But I waited, let the skin recover at least a little bit, and came the next day—day three on Perfecto Mundo. My goal was to climb the whole route starting from the fifth bolt—exactly as I was attempting to do it on day two. Unfortunately, the moves felt very different with warmer and humid conditions."
Part 4: Crafting the Beta
Ondra writes: "Day 4 on Perfecto Mundo. I wanted to finally make the link from the 5th bolt all the way to the top. Conditions were far from perfect, but still a little better than on Day 3. Nevertheless, the crux move feels hard if you link a lot of climbing before and it kept spitting me off. Besides that, I was trying hard to find some better sequences and I found one that helps me to eliminate some moves and Jorge Diaz Rullo recommended a new kneebar that feels very uncomfortable, but it gives me hope that if I practice it more, I might improve."
Part 5: High Pressure
Ondra writes: "It is day 5. I put a lot of pressure on myself, I really wanted to get it done starting from the 5th bolt before I could try for real from the ground. Yet, it just did not work out. Conditions were not great, but they were not the worst either. A lot of doubts crept into my mind."
Part 6: It Would Be Nice to Climb Today
Ondra writes: "I am not sure if I have ever spent that much time by checking the weather forecast like here in Margalef. I notice various signs like the humidity of the neighbour’s wall, or humidity on the road in order to see whether the conditions would be good enough to give it a try. Low humidity, north direction of the wind is the key. Many times I would be sitting at the crag, waiting for the wind that would never come. Some days I would decide to try Perfecto Mundo anyway, only to find out it was completely pointless, some days I would end up training in the evening, some days I just told myself “It would be good to climb today” and head out to drier, more opened cliffs to climb."
Part 7: Out of This Hell
Ondra writes: "Humidity turned Margalef into humid hell, and that was why it was a good idea to escape and visit Patxi Usobiaga who lives in Alt Urgel in Oliana. It was refreshing to meet him again, have a chance to train really hard, and also check out a new crag I have never been to before and that Patxi Usobiga has been developing. Alt Urgel has a lot of potential for climbing, many foreigners have visited Oliana as the most famous crag, but there is much more to be explored. Patxi also talks about his effort to build the local climbing community in this valley and make the local kids start climbing through his recently opened gym The Temple in Col de Nargo. Usain Bolter is the project that I tried that day and I wasn't able to finish. But hands down, it is one of the best pitches I have ever tried."
Part 8: Animal Style
Ondra writes: "Check out another episode how I battled on Perfecto Mundo. After visit of Patxi and training on a campus board on the terrace for almost two weeks, there was a two-day window of quite decent conditions with lower humidity. The weather forecast was pretty grim for the few days following that, so the pressure was on, but psyche was ON too."
Part 9: Final Countdown
Ondra writes: "For about one week, the conditions remained great. It was cold, dry and windy. Just a perfect scenario for sending. After long weeks of waiting, getting really impatient, I was more than eager to give it good tries."