VIDEO: Wait… So Why Exactly Do You Feel Stronger When You’re Crimping?
The Curious Doctor has released a video about how we use (or fail to use) biomechanics to our advantage when climbing.
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Though by no means comprehensive, this short video explains the biomechanics of three everyday facets of climbing.
- The Quadriga Effect—explaining why the strength of our fingers is tied to the positions of our other fingers, especially when we’re using one- and two-finger pockets.
- The biomechanics of crimping—explaining that the reason we feel strong on crimps is directly tied to the mechanics of common crimping injuries (pulley tears).
- Weight distribution—explaining the physics of flagging and backflagging and why they’re absolutely crucial to climbing technique.
For more information about finger injuries—what they are and how to recover—see “Our Complete Guide to Finger Fixes.”
For more about lumbrical injuries and the Quadriga Effect, see “Misunderstood Injury.”
To watch Adam Ondra explain 11 beginner climbing techniques to himself, see “Adam Ondra Teaches 11 Beginner Climbing Tips to Adam Ondra.”