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Watch Alex Megos Make the First Ascent of Upgrade U (V15)

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Alex Megos writes: “This project was found around 20 years ago and various climbers in the Frankenjura have attempted it. I got the tip to try this from Mawi and once I found it, it took me around 10 days to do it, including a lot of beta changes up until the last day. Doing it didn’t feel too bad, after a tiny but very significant change in beta. I still think though that 8C [V15] is an appropriate grade for it, and I believe its the hardest boulder in the Frankenjura at the moment. And yes, it is named after the Beyoncé song.”

Upgrade U isn’t Megos’s only recent hard tick in the Frankenjura. He also made the first “brushpoint” ascent of Father and Son (8c, 5.14b). That is, he climbed the route while brushing the holds on lead. 5.14b is so casual for Megos that he can climb it for a joke—though he has suggested a downgrade to 8b+/5.14a, so maybe this brushpoint isn’t all that impressive. Watch the video below and judge for yourself.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CCMS0Ooqe9E/

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