On February 13, Elias Iagnemma topped out Gioia in Varazze, Italy, marking the problem’s fifth ascent. Beyond the line’s notable difficulty, he also battled with difficult conditions, foregoing an Italian Bouldering Cup competition to capitalize on a weather window. After falling from the very last move, he had to wait 15 days for another suitable day. His persistance paid off, watch the send in the video above.
Gioia was first climbed by Christian Core in 2008. The grade has fluctuated over time. Core gave the problem V15. Adam Ondra repeated the line in 2011 and called it V16. Nalle Hukkataival and Niccolò Ceria completed ascents three and four, respectively. Iagnemma is calling the line V15/16. “Among the 8c [V15] that I have climbed, this boulder remains far more difficult despite the new beta,” he wrote on Instagram. “It requires a mix of power, precision and above all power endurance, which is a key factor since the total difficulty of the line is determined by [keeping] a high level of strength during all the climb together with a steady brain.”