Weekend Whipper: Going for Broke on 5.13- Trad FA

'Love as a Weapon' is a stiff new route in Squamish, BC.

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Photo: Stu Smith

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Readers, please send your Weekend Whipper videos, information, and any lessons learned to Anthony Walsh, awalsh@outsideinc.com

Prolific Squamish climber Stu Smith has put up another hard new route with his FA of Love as a Weapon (5.13-) found at the top of the Bulletheads. “It’s a sporty and pumpy crack climb with a very cool crux at the very top,” Smith said, “and actually pretty safe.”

In a post after his ascent, Smith joked that he was “disappointed this is the sound that comes out of my body just before I’m certain I’ll be shattering my stupid legs.” He clarified with Climbing: “I fell onto a 0.5 [cam, and] there is more good gear around where I fell but on that go I skipped it, as it’s pumpy to place and I kept falling at the top. I knew a fall up top while skipping the gear would be close to the ground but it turned out fine.”

Happy Friday, and be safe out there this weekend.

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