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4/28/11 –Emily Harrington has climbed Full Equip (5.14b) in Oliana, Spain, marking her eighth 5.14 send. This 115-foot route snakes up a blue wall “similar to Céüse,” she says. “It’s a brilliant line with some of the most perfect movements I’ve done. The route is technical, with long pulls on very small holds and some decent rests.”
Harrington says the route simply suited her mood at the time. “I was looking for something fingery and not so steep,” she says. And Daila Ojeda, who climbed the route in December, recommended the line to Harrington and provided beta for the bottom boulder problem. It took Harrington about six or seven attempts to finish the line.
Since arriving in early April, she’s climbed at Terradets, Oliana, Margalef, and Tres Ponts, and sampled some of the area’s steeper, thuggier routes, like La Marroncita (5.13d), and onsighted several 5.13a’s.
Also on the Oliana front, Austria’s Jakob Schubert claimed his first 5.15a ascent with Chris Sharma’s Papichulo. “Mentally very hard,” he says on his 8a.nu scorecard. He fired the rig right before leaving Oliana, giving the route 11 attempts over five days total since his first attempt in December. Other sends include a slew of onsights: Aiztol (5.14b), Via del Quim (5.14a), La Marroncita (5.13d), Dande Brea (5.13b), and more.
Dates of ascents: April 2011
Source: Emily Harrington, 8a.nu