IPhone “SOS” Button Saves Injured Climber
Deep in the Canadian wilderness, high on a big wall, Ines Papart and Emilie Pellerin were in dire straits. A simple iPhone saved the day.
Deep in the Canadian wilderness, high on a big wall, Ines Papart and Emilie Pellerin were in dire straits. A simple iPhone saved the day.
Plyometrics involve rapid muscle stretching and contraction to increase power production. For a climber, this means the ability to move quickly off a hold with a large amount of force.
He didn't know how to pass a knot toproping with two ropes tied together, so he just took her off belay.
The Venturas have been posted in the Red River Gorge for 40 years. A first-time visitor experiences the magic for himself.
It isn't just easy to build endurance on a bouldering wall—it can be more efficient than climbing on a rope.
Low impact does not mean low intensity. Try these exercises to stop huffing and puffing on the approach and while climbing.
"We pushed on, as if floating in slow motion through a Hieronymus Bosch painting, found by tilting life on edge for 1,200 feet and emptying its pockets."
After careful consideration, Schubert decided that the route was a proper step up from his next hardest, ‘Perfecto Mundo.’
Sometimes the only way to become a better athlete is to step away—and to never look back.
The weekly roundup: Niky Ceria taps Finland's unbelievable bouldering potential; Patagonia's Aguja Standhardt is climbed in winter; Beckett Hsin (14) climbs stout V14; Connor Herson and Fan Yang add 2,000-foot 5.13+ to Mt. Whitney's East Face.
This eight-phase (12-month) training series will present specific workouts based on the principles of periodization. Each six-week segment will build upon the previous one.
Honnold is famous for (among other things) cramming as much climbing as he can into each day. To do so, he's developed some efficiency tricks that the rest of us can imitate.
The void swallowed him alive, his streaking form more easily imagined than described. The air froze in my chest.
There are two miracles in this week's whipper: 1) He survived. 2) He caught the fall on video.
Stop wasting your money on shoes that don't fit or are painful or fail you. Don't be disappointed again. Here's how to buy what' just right, just for you.
When one of the world’s best crack climbers was grounded by chronic fatigue syndrome, his life became an uphill struggle just to feel human again.
They figured they knew enough about climbing to wing it, but took a dangerous risk that could have cost them.
During my senior year of high school, my friends and I were bored. We decided we collectively knew enough about climbing for it to be safe. We went to the local outfitter and bought harnesses, carabiners, and belay devices, but we scoffed at the price of a rope. It was way outside our budget. Instead, we went to Home Depot and bought 100 feet of poly cord that was rated for 200 pounds. We climbed on that rope all day, just easy 5.3 climbing on toprope. I’ve included a couple photos. It wasn’t until I was lowering at the end of the day that I realized what a mistake I’d made. The 100-foot rope had stretched to about 200 feet, shrinking to the size of 8mm cord. I bought a real climbing rope the following week. Wanted to share because we are all new at some point and even with the best intentions mistakes are made. We should collectively work together to improve safety across the sport. I wish someone would have stopped us from climbing on that poly rope.
—Kyle Harris, via email
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LESSON: Modern climbing ropes include a number of climber-friendly features. They can hold thousands of pounds of force. They have durable sheaths that prevent abrasion and cutting. They have the ideal amount of stretch to catch a fall softly, and then bounce back to their original length and diameter. They’re supple and easy to tie and untie. They’re tested to meet rigorous safety standards. And they work great with modern belay devices. A random hardware store rope is not designed with any of these goals in mind, and can’t be expected to meet them. Always use proper climbing gear designed and rated for climbing.
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