Benighted and Waterless on Washington Column
"We pushed on, as if floating in slow motion through a Hieronymus Bosch painting, found by tilting life on edge for 1,200 feet and emptying its pockets."
"We pushed on, as if floating in slow motion through a Hieronymus Bosch painting, found by tilting life on edge for 1,200 feet and emptying its pockets."
After careful consideration, Schubert decided that the route was a proper step up from his next hardest, ‘Perfecto Mundo.’
Sometimes the only way to become a better athlete is to step away—and to never look back.
The weekly roundup: Niky Ceria taps Finland's unbelievable bouldering potential; Patagonia's Aguja Standhardt is climbed in winter; Beckett Hsin (14) climbs stout V14; Connor Herson and Fan Yang add 2,000-foot 5.13+ to Mt. Whitney's East Face.
Plus a few modern variations of the word...
Chris Warner stitched the mountains together using various styles over 24 years—climbing “just for the fun of it”
The climber fell 130 feet due to “equipment failure”
The 2023 World Cup season came to a close this weekend with a Lead and Speed event in Wujiang, China.
Sometimes you just have to climb on the route to see if you've cleaned it enough.
Vertical World and Perfect Descent manufacture settle with climber who sustained 30-foot fall
Nearly every move a climber makes is based around the center of the body, the core. The stronger the core, the easier climbing becomes.
Organize your spraywall! Structure your hangboard sessions! Navigate through heinous terrain! Meet partners (and PARTNERS)!
Schubert hasn’t commented on the grade or the final name for the new climb—but by all accounts it’s at least 5.15c
The endeavor, first completed in 1993, totaled 224 pitches of technical rock, 63,000 feet of elevation gain, 140 miles of hiking, 2.5 hours of canoeing, and 3,361 miles of driving.
Plus: Domen Škofic doesn't need no kneepads; Connor Herson rips Air Swedin (5.13 R); A bold attempt on Greenland's Mirror Wall; and more.
Climber in critical condition following gear-ripping fall on pitch four of The Great White Wall
Instagram gurus wanted
Katie Lamb recently made history by becoming the first woman to climb V16. But she was simply motivated to find the next big step in her climbing.
“I knew the crimp was a bit suspect, but it made the first crux flow better, so I just went for it.”
Putting our donations and membership dollars to work, Access Fund has given 2023 conservation grants to 10 local climbing organizations.
An expert looks at the physiology and training of older climbers by age group, from 45 to 50, from 50 to 60 and beyond.
On big wall climbs, strategy is as important as strength and skill when it comes to determining success and failure.
309 hectares of old growth forest protected in perpetuity in “The Yosemite of South America”
Strangely, it was Gus and Alvino, a couple of so-called "annoying" and "ugly" climbers, who got them back.
Jerry Gallwas made history when he climbed the Northwest Face of Half Dome with Royal Robbins and Mike Sherrick in 1957. Then the army, raising a family, and a 150-foot fall changed his priorities.
Read it all in our weekly news roundup.
Crazy what some people will use for climbing gear.
Results and takeaways from this past weekend's lead World Cup in Koper, Slovenia.
A Climbing Coach's Advice on Simple Ways to Go Up a Grade.
Seriously. It’s not pleasant.
The British crack guru hopes to link it into a massive single pitch this month.
Shmidt, a devoted climber, husband, and teacher, passed away after a fall on San Diego’s El Cajon Mountain in July.
The National Park Service is implementing a temporary area and trail closure while the crack is investigated further.
THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP: Connor Herson, Josh Wharton, and BJ Tilden strike again, Ondra and Garnbret take wins at Arco, Nina Williams climbs China Beach, and the Hueco Rock Ranch is both back in business and actively hiring.
Hector Diffut, 26, fell 30 feet from the top of an indoor wall after forgetting to clip into the auto belay.
We grouped up in various vehicles and drove straight from Oklahoma to Yosemite, pulled there by the unseeable promise of a salvation only the rock can lay on you.
The Konseal looks a little unorthodox but it is the most practical and comfortable all-day rock harness I’ve had the pleasure of abusing.
A gang of Camp 4’s hungriest showed up for an orthodox affair fielded by the Arise and Shine Pentecostal Church out of Modesto, California. We’d never seen so much grub...
Lamb has long been one of the leading boulderers in the United States
It's the world's most convenient workout. And the possibilities are endless.
Your nervous system calls upon neuroplasticity and motor learning for all kinds of activities. Might as well include rock climbing.
The line that cemented new tactics, new gear, and a new grade
These gear tips can help you avoid being stranded on the wall... or taking terrible risks to get down... or simply allow you to continue enjoying a climbing day.
There’s a lot to learn from this video.
It's easy to push your training too far, and get injured or see negative progress because you are doing too much. Knowing when to end a training session can be subtle. Here's a climbing coach's tips for guiding you through these murky waters.
Sometimes the best gear upgrades are the ones you barely notice.
FingerBouldering replicates the puzzle-like mechanic of solving boulder problems while still giving you something to actually hold in your hand
Salvaterra climbed around the world with true dedication—especially in Patagonia. Guidebook author Rolando Garibotti called Salvaterra “The most devoted and committed lover Cerro Torre has ever had.”
Liza Mills has climbed 25 Grade V (or harder) walls, had epics with Lynn Hill, sailed across the world in a 35-foot sailboat, taught art in a city dubbed its state’s “murder capital,” and, at 48, still climbs 5.13. And she has big plans ahead.
High-tech coatings and innovative braiding techniques promise improved durability and softer catches
Take these belaytionship tips from longtime dynamic duos
In 1985, Russ Clune, then one of America's leading rock climbers, found himself in South Korea, where the free climbing revolution had yet to take hold. He went on a two-week kick of nonstop new routing.
The reality is that you likely need to eliminate some training protocols and narrow your focus to become a better climber.
The Weekly Roundup: 12-year-old Bayes Wilder sends 5.14c, Laura Rogora onsights 5.14b (while hanging draws!), Everest prices are sky rocketing, and Seb Berthe flashes 'Rayu' (5.14b; 2000ft).
"We only had one harness, so I pulled my car up closer, opened the passenger door, and clipped the locker and belay device to the door latch. The car caught a few falls."
"If I know anything about fashion, which I don’t, it’s that it's a cycle. Let us thus peruse climbing's long and ugly fashion journey.
These five American cities are stellar launchpads to develop and progress as a climber.
This equipment will keep your four-legged spotter psyched (and safe) while you’re on the wall.
Climbing is risky, but these six characters took it to a whole new level.
Despite the grim nomenclature, the EDK is a safe and effective rappel knot. Here's why.
“I got the pitch dialed but my arms were so pumped that I couldn’t quite put it together.”
"The Whetstone is my favorite hangboard in its class."
In the thirty-fourth year of my life, I walked into a ring of oak trees in the foothills west of Carbondale, Colorado, to kill myself.
Not many will argue that hitting the fingerboard will improve your climbing grade, but if simply going climbing is just as effective...
Pizza, community, and 40 years of stoke—Miguel's has given the climbing community a lot to celebrate.
"Call it what you will—adrenaline, salvation, therapy—climbing represented a form of gravity-defying strength that I lacked but craved."
More climbers than ever are stirring collagen into their morning coffee, or snacking on gelatin, trying to keep their tendons healthy. But are these supplements actually helping?
The Neon 45 has long been a staple in Mammut’s lineup, but this year’s updated version features coated ballistic nylon on the bag’s upper.
Silence hung in the evening. I was going to get pulverized. Unless we could maybe decide this whole thing never happened. The hammering started again, and cursing filled the air ...
The Sourdough and Blue Lake Fires shut down the only road through the park, preventing climbers from accessing the area’s premium alpine granite.
The Weekly Roundup: Owen Whaley Does his fifth 5.14d—Climbing Stewards are coming to the Red—Maui's climbing community could use our help—Lattice tackles the age-old question: should beginners hangboard?
With bolting hardware so inexpensive, why did we feel the need to steal from each other? The deeds came back to bite us.
See if your skills on the rock translate to these mental rock climbing mysteries.
Crack gloves may be all the rage. But there's still value in knowing how to tape up like a pro.
The fall is safe, at least, if a bit exciting.
Longtime coach Neil Gresham lays out the secrets to success that have worked time and again for his climbing students. They'll work miracles for you, too.
The 20-year-old sent four 5.14s (two trad, two bolted, all classic) and two 5.13 stem corners, in just over a month.
Ruana's 17-day battle with "The Ice Knife Stand" (V15) is a great reminder of why I don't siege nemesis boulders... and some other things too.
Climbers possess a handful of traits that are potentially attractive to your business
Perhaps most exciting is the Generator’s sub categories: mid top or low, and high- or low-volume fit.