Coach Reviews: Why Steve Bechtel’s Training Team Blew Us Away
“I basically had a personal trainer!” our reviewer raved. “I don’t know what else I could’ve even asked for.”
“I basically had a personal trainer!” our reviewer raved. “I don’t know what else I could’ve even asked for.”
The Belgian shared her experience on recent project La Planta de Shiva (5.15b) and what it’s like to be one of only four women to send the grade.
A fourth of July ascent, to see the fireworks from up high, went a bit haywire.
The 46-year-old was a beloved community leader in his local New Hampshire.
A family illness seemed to dash Harrison’s Olympic prospects. But in November 2023, he fought for a second chance.
Neil Gresham is an elite climber and coach, but he specializes in training V2-V6 mortals.
Maybe cams placed in concrete aren’t that bomber after all.
Pedro and Tomas Odell learned how to climb on the Cerro Chaltén skyline. Now, they’re leading a bold new wave of Patagonian alpinists.
Unlike their Nepalese counterparts, Pakistan’s untrained high-altitude workers seldom have their own guiding companies or receive acknowledgement for their vital role in mountaineering. But a shift could be on the horizon.
“It was a little too close to the deck for comfort.”
Coach and elite climber Cameron Hörst explains how sport climbers in the 5.10-5.13 range should train for the crag.
This budding leader took a 30-footer trying to do her first 5.10.
Martin Feistl, 27, was among the most talented and bold alpinists of his generation. He died after a 130-foot fall.
“I’m sure there must have been edges to make the foot placements better," says Jesse Dufton, "but because I can’t see, I didn’t find any. I’ve never known such pain in my calves.”
Coach and elite climber Cameron Hörst explains how boulderers in the V3-V9 range should train for the blocks.
Cannon has freed El Cap in a day, made the second ascent of 'Cowboy Direct' (VII 5.13a) on Trango Tower, and repeated 'Wet Lycra Nightmare' (5.13d A0) on the Leaning Tower. But his story is much deeper than that.
“I pushed it until absolute failure and ended up taking the whip mid cam placement!”
Coach and 5.15 climber Cameron Hörst explains why—and how—climbers should perform a self-assessment protocol.
That could have been so much worse.
REI’s anniversary sale is a rare opportunity to score real deals on premium shoes and hardware.
Berthod first tried 'Cobra Crack' in 2005, gunning for the first free ascent. Shortly after, for reasons unknown, Berthod disappeared into a Swiss monastery, where he stayed for over a decade.
“What’s the biggest, baddest mountain around here?” a youthfully ignorant Jim Donini asked.
Coach and 5.15 climber Cameron Hörst explains how to develop a training program for 5.10-5.13 climbers.
The Slovenian powerhouse made quick work of Austria’s ‘Bügeleisen Sit’...before running a second lap.
Especially if your guide doesn’t correct your mistakes.
"We hadn’t accomplished our goal of free-climbing 'The Diagonal,' but it was one of the wildest days of my life. After that, I stopped climbing for a few months, spooked."
Mecus and her partner fell 1,000 feet while attempting Mt. Johnson's Southeast Face. Mecus is remembered as an incredible climber and encouraging of all women.
Oh how we love to dispatch the crux. But it’s no reason to lose concentration.
You loved the mountains, you taught us how to enjoy them, and you always made us laugh. The world needed more of you.
"It is important to have books like The Art of Climbing in today’s digital world," Adam Ondra writes. These books create passionate climbers—and passion is what gets us to the top.
“I was confident about the dyno, and I assured my belayer I wouldn’t miss the hold.”
We’ll take your word for it!
I have never been a fan of superheroes, but I will happily overlook the Batman-vibes of Julbo’s new Ultimate Cover sunglasses.
A lightweight vest is the most versatile layer for any climbing discipline. Here’s why Patagonia’s Nano-Air Light is my favorite.
Rope stretch and miscommunication are not to be underestimated.
Our gear expert weighs in.
It's no fun climbing in the sun.
After making the first repeat of Shawn Raboutou’s ‘Megatron,’ American upstart D.B. Vernon is recommending a double downgrade to V15.
“Today’s climbers don’t realize how hard we had it back then,” read a statement from an anonymous group of former Yosemite climbers.
In an online world showcasing young, impossibly fit climbers, Jeremy Arntz—heavyset, middle aged—is proving that the sport is accessible to all body types.
“Upside-down double-heel hook” is not in our mixed-climbing vocabulary. Maybe that’s for a reason.
The ‘Travesía Doble M’ (5.11 A2; 2,200m), is the first time all four summits have been connected in a push—with or without a partner.
The 55-year-old Japanese icon recently completed a crack project he’s eyed for the last 40 years. In an interview with Climbing, he talks about why “adventure is much more important than grades."
“I let the feeling of being done take over, and I forgot to use my feet.”
‘Pot’ (5.11 A3; 2,500ft) marks the end of a three-year project for Luka Lindič and Luka Krajnc.
Be wary of clipping above your head while close to the ground.
“I put myself off-route, on the far end of an unprotected traverse, and climbed up moves I could not protect nor easily reverse.”
Nearly 60 years after its first ascent—and 45 since its inclusion in “Fifty Classic Climbs of North America—the Hummingbird Ridge remains as fearsome as ever.
The climber would have knocked his teeth into the roof had he placed a cam a bit higher.
The 1,300-meter behemoth was freed over 18 stormy days. Over a meter of snow fell on their portaledge camp, and winds exceeded 80 miles per hour.
Although staying upright would be nice.
Heed these 10 principles of neuroplasticity and motor learning to increase your performance. Ignore them and you can expect to languish in a never-ending plateau.
This climber totally mismanaged his rope’s position.
Brette Harrington and Marc-André Leclerc were the first to climb the stunning granite wall. After Leclerc died, Harrington kept going back.
“I guess the lesson learned is: Can never be too careful on runout slab.”
Six climbers spent 65 days in Greenland, first kayaking hundreds of kilometers then climbing 'Sea Barge Circus' (VI 5.11+; 900m) over 20 days.
Kevin Lindlau has made the first repeat of a D16 route in Italy, solidifying the lofty grade.
“Looking back, it was a big mistake to not wear a helmet. I totally overestimated the steepness of the wall.”
Kitty Calhoun has climbed hard alpine faces around the world, but her biggest struggles have come at home: dealing with death, identity, and a complex family history.
You don’t see this everyday.
The John Lauchlan Memorial Award is Canada’s biggest alpine-climbing grant, having funded trips to Patagonia, Alaska, and the Himalaya for 30 years. Apply for this year’s award by January 31.
'The Dark Side' is a deceivingly simple-looking line located on the Thriller Boulder, in the woods adjacent to Camp 4.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
On short climbs, maybe don’t run it out.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
This climber’s takeaway? Don’t change shoes between attempts.
Wybrow was descending from an ice climb in the Canadian Rockies when he and his girlfriend were struck by an avalanche.
Well, this is sobering.
Most climbing clinics have boring agendas of played-out rope skills. Here are the clinics we actually need.
Has a climb ever refused to let you fail?
The new Netflix documentary highlights the “rivalry” between solo alpinists Dani Arnold and the late Ueli Steck.
Soft yet flat performance shoes are rarely done well. Nice work, Scarpa.