Why Janja Garnbret Says Her Coach Makes Winning “Even Remotely Possible”
Janja Garnbret is the best competition climber of all time—yet she says her coach, Roman Krajnik, is her secret weapon. We caught up with Krajnik to ask about that.
John Burgman is the author of three books, including High Drama, which chronicles the history of American competition climbing. He is a former editor at Outdoor Life and a Fulbright grant recipient. His writing has appeared online and in print at Climbing, Gym Climber, Men’s Health, Esquire, Trail Runner, Boundary Waters Journal, and elsewhere. He currently serves as the senior editor at Climbing Business Journal and a producer for the Climbing Gold podcast.
Janja Garnbret is the best competition climber of all time—yet she says her coach, Roman Krajnik, is her secret weapon. We caught up with Krajnik to ask about that.
We chatted with Garnbret about pre-competition pressure, her finger-injury scare, her friendship with Brooke Raboutou—and more.
There were oh so many highlights in today's historic Lead & Boulder Combined event
Here were the biggest and best moments from the Lead portion, the “grand finale” of the men’s Sport Climbing discipline at the 2024 Olympics.
This might be the single most exciting Speed competition we've ever watched.
In the women’s Olympic Speed event, Aleksandra Mirosław was flawless and dominant. But there were some surprises—and amazingly close races—in the battle for silver and bronze.
American Sam Watson runs 4.75!
Nine highlights (and lowlights) of the women’s Speed Climbing seeding and elimination rounds.
The fact that anyone could win is why we’ll all tune in starting August 5.
Some rivalries are just as career-defining as the actual accolades athletes earn on the wall.
Speed climbers were dealt a rough hand at the Tokyo Olympics. This time around, we'll finally get to see who the best speed climbers in the world are.
With a field this stacked, it's hard to pick winners. But these eight women are leading the pack.
With an athlete field this stacked, it's hard to pick winners. But these nine climbers are all poised to excel in Paris.
There were many surprise endings at this past weekend's US National Championships.
The 2023 World Cup season came to a close this weekend with a Lead and Speed event in Wujiang, China.
Results and takeaways from this past weekend's lead World Cup in Koper, Slovenia.
Over the course of 12 days in Bern, Switzerland, more than 400 competitors from 54 different countries participated in four different disciplines, ultimately coming to a crescendo with 10 Olympic berths. Here's what happened.
The IFSC’s World Cup circuit rolled into Briançon, France, this weekend. It was the last stop on the circuit’s European swing before the upcoming World Championships.
Results and thoughts from this past weekend's Lead and Speed World Cup.
Here’s a rundown of all the World Cup action from both the lead and speed disciplines at Villars
Results and a recap from this past weekend's bouldering and lead World Cup in Innsbruck.
Intriguing battles continued in this past weekend's Bouldering World Cup in Brixen, Itatly.
With the return of marquee athletes, the Prague World Cup featured memorable battles and highlights for the season thus far.
The Boulder and Speed Salt Lake City World Cup took place over the weekend. Here's what you missed.
Although no world records were broken (unlike at the preceding World Cup in Seoul), the Jakarta event still proved to be among the fastest World Cups ever.
Here’s a recap of all the action, along with some results and random thoughts on the excitement…
The wait was finally over—this weekend the World Cup circuit returned with the 2023 season debut, a thrilling boulder event in Hachioji, Japan.
The Team Trials selected the elite squad that will soon travel around the globe representing the USA at IFSC’s events...with the eventual goal of qualifying for the Paris 2024 Olympics.
The 2022 USA Climbing National Championships took place in Denver, Colorado from November 9 through 13. Here are the results.
The IFSC punctuated the 2022 season with a one-off Combined World Cup in Morioka, Japan.
This year wasn’t a disaster—it had its jaw-dropping moments, but it also proved that the competition circuit is still in somewhat of a dizzy tailspin, the same one it has been in for three years.
A recap and results from this weekend's Lead and Speed event in Jakarta, Indonesia.
Samuel Watson claimed the first men's World Cup gold in Speed for Team USA while Jesse Grupper (USA) went home with the gold in Lead. In a climactic showdown, Garnbret silvered in women's Lead, bested by Japan's Ai Mori.
Results and action from the Lead World Cup in Koper, Slovenia.
3 billion people tuned in to climbing in Tokyo a year ago. Climbing can't ever be the same.
Over two decades ago this Slovenian, in a newly minted World Cup competition scene, helped pave the way for today superstars and even the Olympics themselves.
Team USA's Jesse Grupper won his first gold medal, and Janja Garnbret did the expected at the Briançon Lead World Cup.
Here’s a recap of all the action and surprises that happened in the separate climbing disciplines.
The World Cup circuit swung through Chamonix, France, this weekend for a World Cup extravaganza that included Speed and Lead disciplines.
In his most recent history-making run, Katibin clocked a time of 5.009 seconds.
It was a World Cup filled with surprises: Garnbret off the back in qualifiers. World speed champ misfires. But Team USA once again adds to its medal collection.
With a final time of 5.04 seconds Katibin is within reach of the mythical sub-5-second bar, a time that was thought untouchable just a few years ago.
No surprises from Garnbret, but Team USA knocked it out of the park.
It wasn't a gimme as Grossman squared off in Brixen, Italy, at the Boulder World Cup.
In 2019, Climbing dubbed her “America’s New Comp Superstar.” Since then, Grossman has certainly lived up to that moniker.
Grossman and Raboutou Dazzle Again in Salt Lake City World Cup; Hunt Races to Multiple American Records
And it's just the qualifying rounds at the World Cup in Salt Lake City.
How Ben Mayforth became a world class and world cup competitor.
With her repeat gold-medal performance in Salt Lake City, she now must rank as one of America's best competitors of all time.
How did Grossman put together such a magnum opus in South Korea? Here's how.
This weekend’s World Cup had some of the most intriguing exposition of any climbing competition in recent memory.
He didn't medal in Meiringen, but he showed that he could become one of the best competitors of all time.
The first bouldering World Cup of the season took place this past weekend in Meiringen, Switzerland. Here is what you missed.
The comp world is more competitive than ever after climbing's debut in the Olympics. These stars, some rising, could give everyone a run for their money during the 2022 World Cup season.
The upcoming World Cup season is bound to see fireworks from former Olympians, but don't rule out surprises from other world-class competitors.
His was a remarkable rise from small-town life to Olympic immortality.
A defeated Janja Garnbret leaves the gym and other surprising moments show us that even Olympians are human.
The Slovenian is one of the most dominant competition climbers of all time. Fresh off winning Olympic sport-climbing gold, she has her eye on the next prize.
Sport Climbing's debut in the Tokyo Games came and went in a flurry of surprises. We saw new stars shine and even the predictables had nail-biting moments.
Grossman, Bailey, Coleman and Raboutou may have sat out the Bouldering Nationals, but the field remained powerful and with a few surprises.
Slips by top seeds, a rare tie and a missed buzzer kept the crowd on its feet at USA Climbing's Speed National Championships.
Jesse Grupper and Quinn Mason put on stellar performances, while Duffy, Coleman and Condie also podium.
Check out John Burgman's author page.
Most Olympians skipped the World Cup Lead in Slovenia, but the field remained world class.
If you were excited to watch Paraclimbing in the Olympics you will be disappointed—climbing's most inspiring athletes were left out.
It's easy to say that speed climbing shouldn't have been in the Olympics, that it's not "real" climbing. Here's why those notions are just wrong.
Sport Climbing was exhausting to watch, four days of high-level focus from the athletes and spectators. It was at times a bumpy and confusing road with many forks, most generated by an oddball scoring system. Here, we present the highs and lows.
The speed wall didn't go well for most of the climbers, then one boulder was too easy, the others too hard.
Janja got off to a terrible start, speed PRs fell, Seo proved she was worthy, Nonaka hurt her wrist, and other news from today's women's sport climbing qualifiers.
It's the Olympics anything can happen, but let's make a few predictions anyway.
A torn biceps tendon has knocked the Frenchman out of finals potentially upsetting the medal apple cart.
The night was full of twists and turns, with underdogs giving top-dog performance, and the eight climbers advancing to the finals were only half expected.
The night was full of twists and turns, with underdogs giving top-dog performance, and the eight climbers advancing to the finals were only half expected.
Check out John Burgman's author page.
A lot of the world's top climbers won't be in the Olympics, here's why.
The least favorite discipline for most Olympic climbers, speed climbing and its unforgiving nature could put some medal contenders in the hole at the onset.
With the Games just days away, the world's top two climbers seem poised to win gold, but victory isn't guaranteed. Here are our picks for the athletes who could upset the apple cart.
Check out John Burgman's author page.
The president opens up about the Olympics, that highly publicized lawsuit with Japan, some ongoing efforts to combat doping, and what’s in store after Tokyo
Great performances by world-class competitors in the final World Cup before the Olympics.