Weekend Whipper: Crack-climbing Sport Climber Leans Into the Stereotype
Laybacking cracks works well—until it doesn’t.
Laybacking cracks works well—until it doesn’t.
THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP: The iconic line, 'Biographie', has now seen 19 ascents; Nat Bailey demonstrated the power of audacious goals with his Squamish ascent; and more.
Critiques are tough—but so is belaying. Here’s to approaching both with caution.
He was feeling good but the rock was not—it had rained the day before and the water-streaked wall still held plenty of moisture.
In honor of Mental Health Awareness Month we present 12 feature stories about climbers struggling with depression, alcoholism, disordered eating, grief, loneliness, and more.
We’ll concede: the climber did some things right. But it didn’t matter in the end.
THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP: David Lama’s ‘Avaatara’ finally saw a repeat, and Chen put down ‘The Fly,’ a 25-foot two-bolt (or nine-pad) 5.14d (or V13/14). Plus, some exciting vids that caught our attention.
He lined up for the famous move and launched with gumption, only to latch the edge’s chalky outer rim and face the music of his momentum.
Just moments before, the climber had been cruising along a section of mellow terrain and hadn’t felt the need to place much pro at all.
THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP: Everest is even more crowded than usual; there's a new member of the 5.15b/c club; will Russia and Ukraine both send climbers to Paris 2024? (Plus our favorite movies of the week)
The climber logged nothing but air miles thanks to the cave’s steepness, and called her whip “the craziest air I’ve ever had.”
This week’s whipper is a reminder that geologic time includes now.
Bouin had one of the greatest years of sport climbing on record last year, making the first ascent of DNA (5.15d), Nordic Marathon (5.15b/c), and Suprême Jumbo Love (5.15c), and repeating Change (5.15c), Jumbo Love (5.15b), and Iron Curtain (5.15a).
This climber knew “the fall would be clean” so committed to running out the crux. He almost made it.
Patagonia’s new film, ‘Ascend’, follows three women who escaped from the Taliban and rediscovered climbing and community in Yosemite
A Goldilocks catch: soft, airy, and just right.
THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP: Jana Švecová has worked out all of the moves on 'Terranova' (V16); Dai Koyamada FA's another V15 after building one helluva platform; and Matt Fultz repeats a Brione V16.
This isn't a guide to 2023's freshest gear. It's just what we're psyched on.
How did he get away with that?
An incomplete (but very long) list of the best films streaming online right now, organized by streaming service. Updated March 22, 2023.
THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP: A historic V15 gets an upgrade; a 2,000-foot FA on Aguja Poincenot; and another hard-trad tick for Anna Hazelnutt.
We’ve endeavored to recognize the climbers who lost their lives in the war effort
“He was completely fine, in a shock to us all.”
THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP: how Cameron Hörst increased his already impressive 5.14d ticklist by 50%; why Tristan Chen re-projected a V14; and how Colin Duffy can make his first V16 look so easy.
Lesson learned: “Clip the rope as soon as possible and don't do a figure four with the rope between the legs.”
Here are the coolest new lines (and repeats) of late.
We haven’t heard this one before.
Here are the coolest new routes (and repeats) of late.
The video picks up as Pearson half-crimps some miserable sandstone divots, trying to punch it to the arête.
No hate on the belayer here—just a cautionary tale.
“Neither of us anticipated that I would fall to the height her head was … and absolutely boot her into the edge of a flake.”
Just because the rock is bomber doesn’t mean the fixed gear is.
One very real concern, the filmer said, was the climber’s rope cutting over the sharp ironstone edge.
Second Choice (5.11) is a striking splitter with its steepest moves near the top.
“Woo was pretty pumped and fixated on the final hard sequence. He forgot to clip the bolt, did the moves, and then slipped off.”
“Climbers We Lost” is an annual tribute to community members we've lost in the past year.
Many sport pitches can be fallen from with abandon. Not this one.
The climber, miraculously, walks away without a scratch.
Even if caves and steep routes aren't your thing, one can never have enough core strength.
“The movement was fun—until it wasn't anymore.”
Most whippees are on their way up before they hurtle down. But that’s not always the case.
The “Dodo’s Delight” crew is back for more sail-to-climb adventures, this time on the east coast of Greenland.
A proper warmup will help you make the most of your climbing session and prevent long- and short-term injuries. Here's how to get started.
“I realized there was no foothold to move across to the bolt and I took a 30-foot whip, face down, one-foot from the ground.”
“Needless to say I lowered off to check if any icing was taken off the cake.”
Paradox Sports and the Access Fund enrich the climbing world and its participants—let's show them some love back.
"What Beth did in 2008... was way ahead of the times"
Return of the Jedi is found in an abandoned gritstone quarry in the Peak District and is an unmistakable line: a sharpened prow that is intimidatingly tall and “that requires quite a few pads to make safe.”
Sport climbing trip coming up? Dreams of long trad routes? Here are 9 tips to help you achieve your rope-stretching, enduro-climbing goals.
The filmer breaks down exactly what happened—and what went wrong.
'Love as a Weapon' is a stiff new route in Squamish, BC.
Those “easy sends” can still leave a mark.
“I personally felt that ‘Honey Badger’ (V16) was more of a challenge for me.”
Get safety tips and other advice from one of climbing's most prolific and knowledgeable climbers in this three part online video course.
Some say the most dangerous section of a sport climb is between the second and third bolts.
Surprise, surprise, France has yet another barely-touched limestone mecca.
In not wearing her hijab, Elnaz Rekabi has become a symbol for the anti-regime movement. We hope she is safe and that her wellbeing is unthreatened, but we fear the worst.
That could have been a lot worse.
New goodies are coming to the market soon!
"The [route] description ironically says something like 'Don't blow the mantle at the top...' "
Pay your passion forward for the betterment of the planet.
This one's got to hurt.
About as clean as any gear-ripper can be, anyway.
"It took me a few attempts of climbing higher and higher above the last two pieces to eventually feel confident to commit to the final runout."
Did anyone else feel their ankle snap just watching that? No? Just us? No matter—the climber, Maissa, is A-OK.
Each year, Big City Mountaineers changes thousands of kids’ lives by bringing them on their first outdoor adventures. You can make it happen for another.
This belayer had the best of intentions. At least the only victim was himself—and his lawn chair.
"Other than almost decking this is a phenomenal route."
Climb long enough—and a few months will do it— and don't take proper care of that crucial joint, the elbow, and you'll be in a world of hurt for just about the rest of your life.
Steep, sandy jugs—what could be better?
A small cam provided a secure catch for five sessions. The #0.2 was bomber, until it wasn't.
The Scottish climber has just opened what may be one of three V16s in the UK.
Who said sport climbers can't take gear rippers?
Climbing is a jargon-filled sport. And sometimes the jargon isn't even a complete word—it's an abbreviation.
The Gorge is a "wild land of superb and serious climbing where every climb is unique, and demands technical skill, unadulterated burliness, and usually a key piece of gear that keeps it G rated."
What bouldering is, how to do it, why, and what the future of bouldering looks like.
We hate to lay blame. But it couldn't have hurt...
This is a contender for "best whip of the year."
The climber walked away unscathed, much to our surprise.
Indeed, all is well until it’s not.