What Shoe is Right for You? See Paige Claassen's Flowchart.

Twenty years ago, there weren’t many retail options for climbing shoes, let alone online reviews. So when my Dad took me to get my first pair of “real” climbing shoes, we were pretty lost. It didn’t help that the man running the shoe floor was unwilling to give attention to a nine-year-old girl who just wanted to try on a pair of Testarossas because “they looked the most extreme.” Needless to say, choosing a new climbing shoe can be stressful. The options are vast, product descriptions are complicated, and who knows if the sales person at Dick’s Sporting Goods even knows what climbing is. So how do you narrow characteristics to find the perfect shoe for your next adventure?

Whether this is your first or 50th pair of rock shoes, this flowchart should help you find the answer.

A flowchart to help you choose a pair of climbing shoes

Climbing shoe flowchart results

1. Your very first pair of climbing shoes.

With your first pair of climbing shoes, your goal will be learning to use your feet. You’ll want a comfortable shoe with plenty of support in the midsole as your foot strengthens. Most brands carry a range of beginner shoes, but keep an eye out for a flat sole, as this will provide comfort and support, whether you’re climbing outside or in the gym. Try sizing down one or two sizes from your street shoe, to get a feel for that snug but not painful fit. And start with some more tips and top picks in this regularly updated beginner’s shoe guide.

2. You dream of deep water soloing.

Until a climbing shoe brand develops some waterproof climbing shoes named after Chris Sharma, here are a few recommendations from Climbing Shoe Review. You can also try to bring a couple pairs to alternate between while you wait for one pair to dry.

3. You’re climbing hard. Like Tommy Caldwell hard.

TC Pros are your only option. I mean, Tommy Caldwell literally made the shoe for the Dawn Wall.

4. You’re a multi-pitch trad daddy at heart—but aren’t chasing hero grades.

Whether you’re on a fun multi-pitch adventure with friends, or working your single pitch project on gear, you’ll be on your feet a lot! A stiff edging shoe will provide support and precision in your toes. Lace-ups are a great choice, especially if you’re crack climbing, as they won’t get in your way when you’re jamming. Plus, the laces will allow you to cinch your shoes down for the tough pitches and loosen up later in the day when your feet are sore and swollen.

5. You’re all about the techy, slabby sport climbs.

Technical climbing with thin feet demands a precision edging shoe. You’ll want a stiff midsole to provide a platform for your foot when you’re edging on dimes. A slight downturn will give you some power in your toes. This allows you to pull your body to one side or the other, rather than simply standing and pressing with your feet. For sport climbing, consider downsizing two to three sizes below your street shoe. If you’re multi-pitch climbing, try downsizing only one or two sizes so that your feet stay comfortable throughout the day. Check out this sport climbing shoe guide for some recent picks.

6. Steep caves and pumpy routes speak to you.

So, you like fine Italian coffee and steep climbing. A downturned shoe, handmade from fine Italian leather, will be your new best friend. The leather will stretch slightly over time, conforming to your foot to give you that perfect fit. Make sure the heel cup fits snuggly, as you’ll be locking into some aggressive heal hooks. And you’ll want rubber on the upper for toe hooks. Downsizing two to three sizes below your street shoe should give you that sock-like fit, and you’ll be sending hard rigs in no time.

7. Is it Made in America (and light on tariffs)?

You love the American way. Luckily for you, a number of climbing shoe brands manufacture their products in the United States. Here, you’ll find more synthetic uppers, which won’t stretch as much as leather. If you’re climbing in the gym, aim for Velcro shoes, which are easier to slip on and off than lace ups. This brand is a case in point.

8. You secretly wish you were a speed climber.

You speed demon, you. Speed climbers tend to prefer slippers, shoes without laces or Velcro. After all, the clock starts when you begin putting your shoes on, right?

If you’re serious about climbing harder grades with reduced fatigue, then improving your footwork will help you accomplish your goals—and send your projects. Climbing Magazine and pro climber Paige Claassen have teamed up to create Precision Footwork, a 7-week online LEARN course which focuses solely on footwork, one of the most crucial—but all too often overlooked—aspects of rock climbing. Learn more and sign up here.

Related:

• Prolong Your Footwear: How to Keep Your Climbing Shoes in Ideal Condition
• Video: What the Wear and Tear on Your Climbing Shoes Says About Your Footwork