For Safety’s Sake Don’t Do This: Use Body Fluid for Cam Lube
This story goes beyond gross.
This story goes beyond gross.
Meg O’Neill died Sunday after a freak accident on 'Raven Falls' (WI4) when a large ice column broke. O’Neill saved the belayer’s life and the leader was seriously injured.
There are a lot of misunderstandings around about why exactly we need to protect wilderness climbing and what those protections actually mean. Here are the facts.
THE NEWS ROUNDUP: Comeback sends, a promising crew at Burden of Dreams, a Swiss first ascent, and the best recent YouTube videos.
The Conservation Team is composed of land restoration experts who travel the country and work on bringing climbing areas back to health. But they need our help.
An NPS spokesperson reported that the “people movers” will make it easier for tourists to navigate between boulders in the heat of summer.
After over a year of effort, Sharma clipped the chains on 'Sleeping Lion,' his second 5.15c. We caught up with Sharma to hear more about his process, training, and how he’s managed to balance his family, career, and climbing goals.
THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP: Jana Švecová has worked out all of the moves on 'Terranova' (V16); Dai Koyamada FA's another V15 after building one helluva platform; and Matt Fultz repeats a Brione V16.
Inyo County is under disaster declaration while roads to many popular boulder fields and crags remain closed.
THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP: A historic V15 gets an upgrade; a 2,000-foot FA on Aguja Poincenot; and another hard-trad tick for Anna Hazelnutt.
Currently, climbing access is only available through a permit, and those permits are extremely limited, unpredictable, and highly restricted.
THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP: how Cameron Hörst increased his already impressive 5.14d ticklist by 50%; why Tristan Chen re-projected a V14; and how Colin Duffy can make his first V16 look so easy.
Lauren Olivia Smith was partway up ‘Code Red’ in Hyalite when the pillar toppled over “like a falling tree,” triggering an avalanche.
With federal land management agencies poised to reinterpret the Wilderness Act and ban bolts in wilderness areas, a new bipartisan bill aims to provide legislative protection for America’s rock climbing
Here are the coolest new lines (and repeats) of late.
A new memoir by alpine guide Majka Burhardt gives readers an honest look at the highs and lows of parenting as a full-time climber.
After the enormous earthquake in February, one group of Turkish mountaineers headed east, to help in any way they could.
SCARY (AND TRUE) TALES FROM A CRAG NEAR YOU
We interviewed the 24-year-old Spanish phenom about his new 5.15c. Díaz-Rullo became the eighth climber (and first Spaniard) to climb the grade
Here are the coolest new routes (and repeats) of late.
'Qué mirás' follows a logical line of weakness—splitter cracks, friction dihedrals, and several punchy roofs—up the center of the East Face for 14 long pitches.
Last month the company discontinued its Guide Built program, letting go of over 20 athletes in the process. Who’s left? Influencers.
We’re launching a new weekly series celebrating a few outstanding ascents that caught our attention recently. We hope you enjoy it.
It was the deadliest accident of the winter so far in the U.S.
The Italian climber reckons the line goes at 5.15c, making it Italy’s hardest route.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
The Basque climbers were killed after an ascent of the 'Afanassieff' when a large wet avalanche swept them into a crevasse.
“This route took me longer than any other route or boulder I’ve ever tried,” he says, but he’s nonetheless hesitant to give it a grade.
When the BLM proposed a fee and reservation system for Calico Basin, the local climbing community and Access Fund fought to make sure their voice was heard.
The National Park Service has acquired 105 acres of land, and the Idaho Department of Parks and Recreation purchased 260 acres, all land that had previously been privately owned and had limited access for use.
Upper and Upper Upper Chaos Canyon were closed due to a rockslide this summer. The extent of the closures may be the result of pre-existing tensions caused by bad climber behavior.
In doing so, she became only the second American woman to tick the grade.
By proposing V16 for his new problem, The Megg, Gabe Lawson propels Canadian bouldering to the next level—and brings a new spotlight on himself.
The alpine knee isn’t always the move. Here’s what happens when it goes wrong.
'Fall' is an edge-of-your-seat ride of whompers, pröösiks, hand-wenching, vulture attacks, free-fall and free-ball rappels, one-armed max hangs, and finally, an epic trundle for the ages. Four stars.
Cassy Doolittle, 25, was caught in a storm on Christmas Day, returning to camp after a solo of Aguja Guillaumet.
The AAC has chosen a new title for its annual honor, which was previously named after mountaineering pioneers Robert L.H. and Miriam Underhill.
HBO Max’s new show, ‘The Climb,’ airs today.
Hesam Mousavi, a prominent rock climbing and highline instructor, was among the detainees. Climbing spoke with his ex-girlfriend, Nazanin Roshanshah, to get a better understanding of the situation.
Senate Bill 168 gave SAR volunteers legal immunity and—hopefully—the money they need to keep climbers, hikers, and paddlers safe.
Scary (and true!) tales from a crag near you
On Thursday, February 12, Wes Walker and Jason Grubb loaded up and drove 11 hours to Cody, Wyoming, for the annual South Fork Ice Festival. The two climbers, from Florida and Texas respectively, were enjoying their first season of ice climbing while living and working in the mountain town of Carbondale, Colorado.
The roof crack has a V10 lip encounter, overcome with a double drop knee and crystalline crimps.
There’s a price tag on “The Yosemite of South America.” Is there anything we can do about it?
He spent 20+ days on the climb and says "Alphane" and "Soudain Seul" feel comparable
In a press release, HBO said it would be an “exploration of the human spirit.” Cheesy? You betcha. Imma stock up on popcorn now.
The rappeller's ropes were too short, and, in a scenario all too common in climbing, he fell to the ground.
River Barry’s quick thinking resulted in the rescue of a severely injured base jumper—and possibly a new first ascent.
Hint: She loves being uncomfortable.
22-year-old Nathaniel Masahi Takatsuno fell about 200 feet.
Access Fund urges climbers to join the fight for climbing areas; sustainable access
Frederick Dreier sat down with Purja to discuss the triumphs and tragedies from his 2022 climbing season.
Footage identified of the family home shows the demolished structure. Rekabi became a symbol of the anti-regime protests after competing without her hijab.
For good measure, he capped his rampage in Spain off by flashing a 5.13b the same day.
“The idea that a lawsuit attacking [Bears Ears National Monument] is going to do a better job protecting cultural resources is just absurd.”
Seo is just the second woman to onsight a confirmed 5.14b.
Paradox Sports and the Access Fund enrich the climbing world and its participants—let's show them some love back.
A first ascent of a 5.15c—Zvěřinec, then a first ascent of a V15/V16, and then a 5.14d onsight. Adam Ondra may have just had the best week of climbing ever.
"What Beth did in 2008... was way ahead of the times"
The bolt-replacement grants were distributed to nine local climbing organizations.
This was the second call to action by Riverside Mountain Rescue at Tahquitz in as many months, the first involving a double fatality.
Buster Martin just became the second person to clip the chains of the two routes in contention for being the world’s first 9a (5.14d).
Siegrist has an encyclopedic familiarity with America’s hardest routes; he’s skeptical about the recent upgrade to 5.15b.
Big wall permits are here to stay in Yosemite. But what they look like is still evolving. Make yourself heard before November 16.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Suprême Jumbo Love (5.15c) is a 65-foot direct start to Jumbo Love: America’s first 5.15b.
“I personally felt that ‘Honey Badger’ (V16) was more of a challenge for me.”
Get safety tips and other advice from one of climbing's most prolific and knowledgeable climbers in this three part online video course.
On October 20, Aidan Roberts made the second ascent of “Alphane,” a V17 established by Shawn Raboutou in Switzerland last spring. We caught up with Aidan to chat about it.
Kristin Harila was unable to obtain an entry permit from China to climb Cho Oyu and Shishapangma, putting her two peaks shy of the record.
The big question was when—or even if— a party would eclipse the 24-minute mark on one of the finest multi-pitch climbs in North America.
"Snake Dike is a lovely route on one of the great monoliths of our planet. Had we had more time and more bolts, we would have [placed more bolts] ourselves during the first ascent."
The BLM’s decision, made in acknowledgement of the site’s importance to the Shoshone-Bannock people, will remove hundreds of routes—significantly changing climbing opportunities in southeast Idaho.
In 1937, Washburn left his cameras and gear behind while attempting to hike out of the Saint Elias Range. Almost a century later, freeskier Griffin Post set out to find the cache.
She sent it in just eight climbing days
With nearly 100 adaptive athletes and 60 volunteers, this year’s ACF was more than twice the size of the previous fest.
Iranian authorities continue to deny any involvement.
To leave a poorly protected, dangerous line without simple updates ... is sort of like saying we shouldn't fix poorly designed roads or traffic intersections.
32 hours, 35 miles, 23 summits, 14 classic rock routes, and 24,000 feet of vertical gain—that’s the Honnold Ultimate Red Rock Traverse
Despite the rugged approach and harsh desert conditions, the French endurance master sent America’s first confirmed 5.15b after just ten days on the route.