This 5.9 Is Worth the 20-Mile Approach
One climber’s quest for the promised land.
Classic Routes
Classic Routes
How to Climb New England’s Best 5.8 Multi-pitch
Check out Shelma Jun's author page.
How Ray Jardine Established the World’s First 5.13
The line that cemented new tactics, new gear, and a new grade
Classic Climbs: The Moose’s Tooth
The Moose’s Tooth, topping out at 10,335 over Alaska’s Ruth Gorge, is one of the most iconic formations in North America.
The First Ascent of Lightning Bolt Cracks… Before Cams
Back in 1979, tower trips could be serious business. Spring-loaded cams had yet to debut. Falls were rare, but potential air was huge.
Classic Routes: Spook Book
Check out Chris Kalman's author page.
Classic Routes: Fontainebleau's La Marie Rose
Fontainebleau’s groundbreaking first 6a, No. 22 on the Bas-Cuvier Red Circuit
Classic Routes: Black Streak (5.10b), Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah
Where plaisir climbing first came to American soil
Classic Routes: Evolution Traverse (VI 5.9), Sierra Nevada, California
8 miles, 9 summits—High Sierra air
Classic Routes: Chumstick Snag
Leavenworth’s mysterious, under-the-radar sandstone spire.
Classic Routes: Exasperator (5.10c), Squamish
The exquisite finger crack that inspired the author’s trad-climbing career
Classic Routes: Yellow Wall
Climbing the Needles’ lightning rod of Khayyam Spire
Classic Climbs: High Planes Drifter
The story behind one of Bishop’s most prized (and misspelled) problems
Classic Routes: Indian Creek's Scarface
Scarface is a photographic rite of passage for Indian Creek climbers
Classic Routes: The Gunks' Traverse of the Clods
Amazing views, good gear, thoughtful 5.9 climbing, and 5.14 exposure: One of the least-climbed Gunks routes is also one of the most classic.
Classic Routes: Washington's Slow Children
The route that revolutionized Western Washington climbing
Classic Routes: North Carolina’s The Nose
Check out Drew Higgins's author page.
Meltdown: Beth Rodden’s Unrepeated Yosemite First Ascent
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Classic Routes: The Naked Edge
Inside Colorado’s most famous route
Scarface (5.11b), Indian Creek, Utah
Scarface, in Indian Creek, is not just a pretty climb—it’s also a great climb. Here's what you need to know about the climb (and the shot).