Ethics

"The Roach was nonplussed about snagging the route. He didn’t apologize, nor did he brag, and he obviously had designs on other new lines. We considered chopping the bolts."

Having spent the better part of three weeks in El Potrero Chico, I was emotionally prepared for what might have otherwise been a very disturbing discovery.

For 40 years the Windtower had just one terrifying route up its Northwest Face. Now it has three, each established in a vastly different style.

Climbing, no matter how you define it, is hard, and however anyone chooses to go up a wall is valid. But when it comes to reporting on ascents, details are everything.

Red-tagging designates a route as under construction/still unclimbed by its “owner.” The practice, though logical, rubs people various ways.

For "conquistadors of the useless," climbers sure love getting into bitter disputes about how we enjoy ourselves.

To leave a poorly protected, dangerous line without simple updates ... is sort of like saying we shouldn't fix poorly designed roads or traffic intersections.

Tactics such as fixed lines left in place, pre-stashing gear, jugger support (a partner jumaring to belay), and rappel rehearsal against traffic flow are often not acknowledged in social posts and news reports.

Just who climbs a route first is nuanced, and with big money at stake the lines between success and failure have gotten fuzzier.

Censorship, Mandates and Social Justice

Check out Jim Erickson's author page.

Check out Josh Laskin's author page.

Escaping the trap of outdated ethics

Confronting the knotty issue of fixed ropes

Check out Hannah Gartner's author page.

Check out Adam Nawrot's author page.

Check out Alexandra Fisher's author page.

Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.

Professional mountain guide and Climbing’s Intro to Trad instructor Rob Coppolillo shares seven ways to preserve wild places.