Yosemite

As a teenager he saw a terrible accident on El Capitan. A chance meeting 40 years later finally brought closure.

The 1970s were heady times in Yosemite, ruled by the high kings of rock, The Stonemasters. And then there were the HoseMasters, ordinary climbers who did something extraordinary.

For five decades Dean Fidelmen has been Yosemite’s artistic don. But he’s still evolving. Now, after a three-year hiatus, he’s bringing his Stone Nudes calendar back. With some twists.

He was diagnosed with an autoimmune disease. Then he lost nearly everything to the Oak Fire. Climbing grounds him, as it always has.

Stonemaster John Long recounts his time with Jeff, a one-time climbing bum and the son of an affluent family. Jeff leaves climbing and dutifully follows his family's riches, while John stays true to the only rule that counts.

Alex Honnold's free solo of El Capitan did not occur in a bubble of solitude and inspiration. In this archive piece, originally published shortly after Honnold's ascent, James Lucas dives into the story (and backstory) of Honnold's path to Freerider.

"The Bird" was a leading and often controversial Yosemite climber who overlapped with the Valley's "Golden Era" that included Royal Robbins and Warren Harding, and the Stonemasters, for whom he was the defacto leader. Here, he muses over what was then the new concept of detailed climbing grades, and how ego affects ratings—thinking that still applies.

Hand-placed beaks, anyone?

This is pure climbing footage; there is no story, no interview, and no posing. And it's beautiful.

A month at sea, with its requisite sickness and insomnia, didn’t stop Berthe from having an incredible Yosemite season. 

The staunch Yosemite hardman pioneered modern free climbing ethics, and accomplished first ascents of some of America’s most iconic climbs.

"A hodgepodge of slightly newer hardware dots the cliff, a marker of all the old bolts that have ripped and needed replacement over the years.”

In the winter of 1986, three highly experienced Yosemite wall climbers were trapped for days in a blizzard on Half Dome's South Face.

Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.

Climbing legend Jim Erickson pulls the curtain back to reveal what really happened ... or didn't happen.

In this excerpt from "Valley of Giants," a new anthology of writing by some Yosemite's most iconic women climbers, Beth Rodden describes how her six-month journey on Meltdown (5.14c) brought an end to one period of her life and introduced another.

Some climbers wait to attempt famous free routes until they’re good enough to do them in perfect style. But what if you are never that good? Purists would say you should stay off the climb—leave it for those who have the necessary strength and talent. I say go for it, with a few points of A0.

The 33-year-old made the fourth ascent of Magic Line after first trying it in 2016.

The following photos provide a glimpse into the evolution of Yosemite's climbing scene, including pioneers like Royal Robbins and Warren Harding, as well as present-day badasses like Alex Honnold.

Granite. Climbers love it, even as it tears their flesh, steals their gear, and makes them feel oh-so-small. You know how granite feels under your hands and feet, how it smells, and the way it turns to gold in the last light of day, but here are a few things you probably didn't know.

First published in 1994, this interview with the late Jim Bridwell runs the gamut: aid routes, alpinism, fast free climbs, vivid dreams, Patagonia, sport climbing, and more.

No matter how experienced you are, gravity never sleeps. Stay safe and stay vigilant with these 10 time-tested tips.

Climbing has long celebrated hard drinking and drugs. Many climbers become lifelong alcoholics and addicts and their families, friends and climbing partners bear the high price. One of climbing's most iconic figures fell into the pit, but pulled himself out and now has an important lesson every climber should read.

Check out The Editors's author page.

The Boulder Farm offers private instructional climbing via toproping and bouldering, along with a WiFi-enabled Airbnb and an outdoor grill. All on the outskirts of Yosemite.

Check out John Long's author page.

The climbers thought they might do a variation to the Steck-Salathé and brought a bolt kit—a decision that would prove crucial.

Check out Cedar Wright's author page.

Check out Dougald MacDonald's author page.

This new anthology chronicles the history of women climbers in Yosemite from the 1930 to the present.

Check out Chris Kalman's author page.

Check out Dave Wetmore's author page.

I hated this situation. I loved it, too. Not a soul, not even God, stood between me and the decision I faced. Do or fly.

Against the odds, Mash Alexander, who was hit in the face and head as he slept, is recovering.

Check out Hannah Singleton's author page.

Check out Hannah Singleton's author page.

Phillip Bay and Brian Degenhardt were on top of Higher Cathedral Spire when they saw this fearsome act of nature. If you take one thing from the article to which this post is related, it is that rockfall on El Cap and elsewhere is continual—take, and wear, your helmet.

Oh, plus miles of approach and descent for Jordan Cannon and Scott Bennett, who also biked between the walls.

It was a close call on the Big Stone when the route they were climbing started falling apart, and then most of the route did collapse.

Are you inspired by Alex Honnold? So is his mom, who is the oldest woman to scale El Capitan. Here she shares her thoughts on how essential a little inspiration can be.

Adams and Wickstrom establish 1,100 feet of new terrain; Warme and Karow go ground up on all-team-free ascent.

Off-the-radar crankster Pablo Hammack, 20, of Santa Barbara, snagged the first problem in the Valley with the proposed grade of V15.

Seven times up El Cap is the lucky number for Squamish big wall climber

“It’s cool doing an older route that doesn’t get climbed. That’s part of the appeal.”

Goris, who climbed 5.14 trad earlier this year, sent the legendary 35-pitch route in a mere five days.

Starting on May 21, wilderness permits will be required for all those who climb overnight in the Park. We talked with the park's Climbing Rangers and the American Alpine Club to learn more.

On April 11, 2021, 31-year-old climber Josh Ourada fell approximately 150 to 200 feet while free soloing Nutcracker, on the Manure Pile Buttress, Yosemite. Climbing magazine caught up with Ourada in a phone call to find out more details about the accident and to learn how his recovery is going.

Check out Michael Levy's author page.

Tierrany is the Yosemite National Park's first boulder problem to be graded V14—though it may not be the first V14.

Yosemite National Park has announced plans to set up an extensive network of auto belays on the iconic big wall, beginning with a series of auto belays protecting the Nose.

Last year, at age 50, the unstoppable Tom Herbert lapped El Cap twice in a day. This year he re-sent Midnight Lighting... then he lapped that too.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out James Lucas's author page.

Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.

Check out James Lucas's author page.

The Yosemite Climbing Association Museum and Gallery was set to open this spring, featuring artifacts and photographs from Yosemite’s climbing history, but was delayed due to the pandemic. Here’s how you can help preserve these artifacts.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out Levi Harrell's author page.

Check out Sonnie Trotter's author page.

Check out James Lucas's author page.

From big wall speed records to long free climbs, Adams does it all, and he recently ticked his hardest free climb to date, the FA of the 1,300-foot Wayward Son (5.12c) on Lost Brother.

Check out Mara Johnson-Groh's author page.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Born and raised in Yosemite Valley, Ahwahneechee Tribe member—and pro climber/snowboarder—Lonnie Kosuko Kauk is taking Valley climbing to the next level, with 5.14 cracks, 5.14+ projects, and beyond.

Check out Adam Nawrot's author page.

Check out Miranda Fengel's author page.

Check out Hannah Gartner's author page.

Check out James Lucas's author page.

Check out Hannah Gartner's author page.

Check out Hannah Gartner's author page.

Camp 4, the storied Yosemite climber campground, will be testing out an online lottery-based application system in 2019.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out Alexa Flower's author page.

Check out John Burgman's author page.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out Jess Dankenbring's author page.

Check out Gina Freund's author page.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out Rex Dangerman's author page.