A Short History of the Climbing Gym
Where indoor climbing was once simply a way to train during the off season, it is now a sport unto itself—many gym climbers have no interest in ever climbing outdoors. How did we get here?
Where indoor climbing was once simply a way to train during the off season, it is now a sport unto itself—many gym climbers have no interest in ever climbing outdoors. How did we get here?
A few of the best skin care solutions on the market for sweaty palms, splits, bulbous calluses, and other skin woes.
“It was a little too close to the deck for comfort.”
Climbers like Adrian Ballinger and brands like Osprey have offered public support to two women who say Purja harassed and assaulted them in a recent ‘New York Times’ story. Others are moving cautiously.
The rope solo record on the notoriously slow ‘Salathe Wall’ was just shy of 20 hours. Honnold did it in 11.
"He used his status as a prominent climber to assault women in the rock-climbing community," said U.S. District Judge John A. Mendez of his decision to deliver the maximum sentence, "and when his victims began to tell, Barrett responded by lashing out publicly with threats and intimidation."
Stop using split tips as an excuse to not send your project. Learn how Molly Mitchell, Cameron Hörst, and Genevive Walker protect their skin while climbing.
Thundercat jammed, Diana Nyad hugged, Jimmy Chin autographed, and thousands of fans soaked up the stoke in Denver this past weekend
Coach and elite climber Cameron Hörst explains how sport climbers in the 5.10-5.13 range should train for the crag.
The Roll Up Stick Clip is a truly remarkable piece of gear. Just don’t look too closely at the price.
‘Anemology’ is one of just a handful 5.15b’s in the United States. Siegrist got the FA after seven weeks of effort.
This budding leader took a 30-footer trying to do her first 5.10.
Tsukamoto’s film is a delicate portrait of the climber Ashima and her father grappling with the possibility of greatness.
Martin Feistl, 27, was among the most talented and bold alpinists of his generation. He died after a 130-foot fall.
“I’m sure there must have been edges to make the foot placements better," says Jesse Dufton, "but because I can’t see, I didn’t find any. I’ve never known such pain in my calves.”
Coach and elite climber Cameron Hörst explains how boulderers in the V3-V9 range should train for the blocks.
Cannon has freed El Cap in a day, made the second ascent of 'Cowboy Direct' (VII 5.13a) on Trango Tower, and repeated 'Wet Lycra Nightmare' (5.13d A0) on the Leaning Tower. But his story is much deeper than that.
An incomplete list of classic routes climbed by our sport's wealthiest (at least until he gave his fortune away) dirtbag.
Mosquitoes, sweat, and warm beer. What’s not to like about Memorial Day? Don’t forget these 14 (discounted) items for your climbing road trip this long weekend.
“I pushed it until absolute failure and ended up taking the whip mid cam placement!”
Join us on Cap Hill, Denver, June 1-2 for our inaugural festival
“Just another 40 feet, Nick. You’re doing great. I reckon you’re higher than Leo Houlding was before he fell off and hit the ground.”
Check out Shelma Jun's author page.
Coach and 5.15 climber Cameron Hörst explains why—and how—climbers should perform a self-assessment protocol.
Since the formation of the first American climbing gym union three years ago, unionization has spread to 18 gyms across 6 states. With varying responses from gym executives, the future of indoor climbing hangs in the balance.
Celebrate climbing and our community at these 13 events, starting in May 2025 and running through November.
A slow, steady, and multi-phased warmup will prepare your body to work hard and make your training safer and more efficient.
That could have been so much worse.
REI’s anniversary sale is a rare opportunity to score real deals on premium shoes and hardware.
Berthod first tried 'Cobra Crack' in 2005, gunning for the first free ascent. Shortly after, for reasons unknown, Berthod disappeared into a Swiss monastery, where he stayed for over a decade.
A big part of 'The Struggle' podcast is an acknowledgment that the process is the same for all of us, regardless of the grade you can climb.
“What’s the biggest, baddest mountain around here?” a youthfully ignorant Jim Donini asked.
A stranger he met at the gym dropped him to the ground. In the aftermath, the author had to relearn how to climb—and to trust.
Coach and 5.15 climber Cameron Hörst explains how to develop a training program for 5.10-5.13 climbers.
The Slovenian powerhouse made quick work of Austria’s ‘Bügeleisen Sit’...before running a second lap.
El Potrero Chico, or "the little corral,” is a bolted limestone playground
Head trauma is among the most feared and catastrophic injuries in climbing. So why aren't more rock climbers wearing helmets?
Whether you’re shopping for a sport climbing harness or something to keep you going on big walls, we’ve got what you’re looking for
Especially if your guide doesn’t correct your mistakes.
"We hadn’t accomplished our goal of free-climbing 'The Diagonal,' but it was one of the wildest days of my life. After that, I stopped climbing for a few months, spooked."
Mecus and her partner fell 1,000 feet while attempting Mt. Johnson's Southeast Face. Mecus is remembered as an incredible climber and encouraging of all women.
Are bolt-on holds ugly? Yes. But they can be easily hammered off, whereas chipped holds may be harder to fix. (Of course, it’s best to do neither!)
This painstakingly researched new book collects the forgotten histories of mountaineerings often-overlooked high-altitude workers
Our favorite helmets of the year are so comfortable and breathable, there’s no excuse to climb without one
In 'A Light Through The Cracks,' Rodden is unflinching in her portrait of herself, freely and viscerally putting her raw emotions on display.
There's a time and place for static moves. But what do of the world's strongest climbers have in common? They are very good at moving dynamically.
Sam Lawson's Wedge Climbing is is one of the most artful climbing channels on YouTube. But he worries that relying his passion for his livelihood “would potentially ruin it for me.” We asked why.
In a sport that basically invented the phrase “inherent risk,” death is common. Yet for all the stories about lives lost to climbing, there are many, many more lives that have been saved by climbs.
Oh how we love to dispatch the crux. But it’s no reason to lose concentration.
We tested and reviewed the best shoes for long alpine scrambles, car-to-crag jaunts, and everything in between.
You loved the mountains, you taught us how to enjoy them, and you always made us laugh. The world needed more of you.
But let's not forget the woman who really taught Letterman the ropes
While James Lucas was working on the new Bishop guidebook, he put together a list of Bishop’s best highballs at every grade up to V10. Pad these climbs carefully—or better yet, don't fall.
"It is important to have books like The Art of Climbing in today’s digital world," Adam Ondra writes. These books create passionate climbers—and passion is what gets us to the top.
Spoiler alert: It’s not aromatherapy candles or a trendy diaper bag
Punting can be heartbreaking. But it’s also kind of funny. We all do it.
Don’t hit the wall without these tester-approved climbing tools
“I was confident about the dyno, and I assured my belayer I wouldn’t miss the hold.”
Most climbers know their ape index, but do you know how to calculate your sloth index? And what about your snake index?
This eight-phase (12-month) training series will present specific workouts based on the principles of periodization. Each six-week segment will build upon the previous one.
Ratchet up your redpoint grade—and ditch some needless pump—with this flagging primer.
For Tom Bolger, being a pro climber also means being an Airbnb host and an offshore oil rigger. His philosophy: being a pro is about doing whatever you can to climb as much as you can.
Sidelined by an ignoble injury, Dave Pagel contemplates his return to a sport that has moved on without him—or is it the other way around?
You, me, and everyone else reading this article could go full caveman and it still wouldn’t have a measurable effect on the pace at which our climate is changing. But it’s important to walk the walk.
Over the years there's been some really, really terrible climbing gear that surprisingly made it to market.
The 18-year-old Texan beat the previous record twice during the qualification round at the Wujiang World Cup
We’ll take your word for it!
I have never been a fan of superheroes, but I will happily overlook the Batman-vibes of Julbo’s new Ultimate Cover sunglasses.
She also got her first 5.14a onsight with ‘Crimptonite,’ in Oliana.
A lightweight vest is the most versatile layer for any climbing discipline. Here’s why Patagonia’s Nano-Air Light is my favorite.
Chimneys can be strenuous, runout, and baffling. They can also take you to some pretty incredible places.
In this excerpt from Ian Nicholson's new book, "Climbing Self-Rescue," two young climbers get over their heads in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge and wish that they knew the sorts of specialized rappelling techniques that Nicholson describes in Chapter 4.
You may need to quit your day job to finish this one.
This is one of the worst anchors we've ever seen and is an inappropriate use of equipment.
Rope stretch and miscommunication are not to be underestimated.
If I was going to Céüse or Siurana or the New River Gorge tomorrow, I’d pack the Sigma first.
Leo Cea Bliedtner has completed the second ascent of ‘Tecnoking’ (5.14d) in Las Chilcas, Chile.
Added bonus: Ondra takes the most surprising whipper I’ve ever seen.
Our gear expert weighs in.
"If there’s one thing we can say about dirtbagging with absolute certainty, it’s this: the goalpost is always moving."