Sending with Eyes Wide Shut: The Blind Climber Leading Trad Across the UK
Jesse Dufton recently became the first blind person to FA a multi-pitch. But he’s indifferent to “firsts.”
Jesse Dufton recently became the first blind person to FA a multi-pitch. But he’s indifferent to “firsts.”
Laybacking cracks works well—until it doesn’t.
Some blame the weather, while others point the finger at the economic trends that are shaping Himalayan mountaineering.
‘Both & Neither’ profiles two Mexican American climbers who have spent their lives attempting to bridge their two cultures, trying to find a space that feels like home.
Critiques are tough—but so is belaying. Here’s to approaching both with caution.
THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP: Duo climbs 100 V6s in a day; Niky Ceria logs a highball stunner; One of the UK's hardest boulders is downgraded; Amity Warme ticks 'Father Time' (5.13b; 2,000ft); Meru South gets a new route.
He was feeling good but the rock was not—it had rained the day before and the water-streaked wall still held plenty of moisture.
It was a single 2,000-foot corner. Walk-off mandatory. We spent the night in no-man’s land, unable to move up or down.
“I’ve always said I want to climb 5.15, and I do, but I think I want to be a mom more.”—Paige Claassen in 'LOVE'
Every climber should at least once, put up a new route, get stranded on a climb, go ice climbing ... the bucket list goes on.
We’ll concede: the climber did some things right. But it didn’t matter in the end.
Eli Michel and Nafiun Awal went missing while climbing on the 10,335-foot Moose’s Tooth in Denali National Park over the weekend.
If you are in need of a durable winter-climbing pack that shirks frills and prioritizes convenience, the Prism is a worthy choice
‘The Technicolour Superdream’ (A2 AI 5+ M6+; 4,200ft) required a steady head, a love of—or at least a tolerance for—sitting bivies, and many bird beak pitons.
‘Letting Go’ profiles Julie Hwang, a Taiwanese American climber, who leaned on her community, Chinese medicine, and climbing to work through a traumatic divorce.
He lined up for the famous move and launched with gumption, only to latch the edge’s chalky outer rim and face the music of his momentum.
THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP: An alpine legend pulls safety gear from Mt. Blanc’s trade route; a Ueli Steck FA in Alaska gets a second ascent after 21 years; and why Southern Smoke might just be the country's best 5.14c.
When my only complaint after a winter of testing is that the boot doesn't ski particularly well, I know I've found a category leader.
Just moments before, the climber had been cruising along a section of mellow terrain and hadn’t felt the need to place much pro at all.
Neil Gresham explains the often-baffling British grading system—and why the “eGrader” app can keep it afloat.
Torrential rain reimagines this climbing landscape; a stand start become a sit, or the boulder itself can roll on its side.
What statistics can tell you about training to be a better climber.
Alongside a group of climbing-oriented phsyio students, "The Climbing Doctor" lays out how you can become your most powerful self.
The climber logged nothing but air miles thanks to the cave’s steepness, and called her whip “the craziest air I’ve ever had.”
Beginning in 2024, anyone traveling above 9,500’ must pay up to climb one of the world’s most popular glaciated peaks.
Like any smart climber will tell you: “It’s all in the feet.”
Moss freed the A4 roof at a bold V11+.
This week’s whipper is a reminder that geologic time includes now.
The climbers were navigating the Khumbu Icefall when a serac collapsed above the glacier.
Jackson Marvell, Matt Cornell, and Alan Rousseau put up Aim for the Bushes (VI M6 X AI 6; 5,250ft) in a three-day push.
THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP: Jorge Díaz-Rullo has the most successful “unsuccessful” climbing season we've ever seen; Anna Liina Laitinen ticks 5.14d; Aidan Roberts flashes V14; 5.14 R trad gets three quick repeats (including a flash!).
This climber knew “the fall would be clean” so committed to running out the crux. He almost made it.
An NPS spokesperson reported that the “people movers” will make it easier for tourists to navigate between boulders in the heat of summer.
A Goldilocks catch: soft, airy, and just right.
Putting the new Mago to work on everything from board-style granite boulders to limestone sport routes, our testers loved the shoe’s versatility
How did he get away with that?
Inyo County is under disaster declaration while roads to many popular boulder fields and crags remain closed.
For 40 years the Windtower had just one terrifying route up its Northwest Face. Now it has three, each established in a vastly different style.
THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP: A historic V15 gets an upgrade; a 2,000-foot FA on Aguja Poincenot; and another hard-trad tick for Anna Hazelnutt.
“He was completely fine, in a shock to us all.”
When considering avalanches, skiers are often the first group to come to mind. But avalanches are just as perilous for ice climbers, and perhaps more deadly.
Currently, climbing access is only available through a permit, and those permits are extremely limited, unpredictable, and highly restricted.
Lauren Olivia Smith was partway up ‘Code Red’ in Hyalite when the pillar toppled over “like a falling tree,” triggering an avalanche.
The 'Tom Egan Memorial Route' (5.14) was Canada’s hardest alpine rock climb. The entire route fell off of Snowpatch Spire last December.
Lesson learned: “Clip the rope as soon as possible and don't do a figure four with the rope between the legs.”
The planning of sports training is 10 per cent science and 90 per cent art—but don’t turn your nose up at this 10 per cent!
After the enormous earthquake in February, one group of Turkish mountaineers headed east, to help in any way they could.
We haven’t heard this one before.
TM Herbert made the first ascent of the Muir Wall with Yvon Chouinard in 1965. His son followed in his footsteps 55 years later, setting a blistering speed record.
Here are the coolest new routes (and repeats) of late.
'Qué mirás' follows a logical line of weakness—splitter cracks, friction dihedrals, and several punchy roofs—up the center of the East Face for 14 long pitches.
The video picks up as Pearson half-crimps some miserable sandstone divots, trying to punch it to the arête.
Ethan Pringle calls it "a little piece of France in Northern California.”
The Bloody Mary’s laundry list of features makes it much more than “just” a winter bag.
Editor’s Note: What you are about to read contains a plethora of illegal activities, dangerous climbing techniques, and unsavory lifestyle choices that are in no way condoned or promoted by the editors of Climbing magazine. Read at your own risk.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
No hate on the belayer here—just a cautionary tale.
The Basque climbers were killed after an ascent of the 'Afanassieff' when a large wet avalanche swept them into a crevasse.
Because style matters.
Filmmakers have bigger budgets, smaller cameras, and new editing technology at their fingertips. They’ve also gotten better at telling nuanced stories.
“Neither of us anticipated that I would fall to the height her head was … and absolutely boot her into the edge of a flake.”
The National Park Service has acquired 105 acres of land, and the Idaho Department of Parks and Recreation purchased 260 acres, all land that had previously been privately owned and had limited access for use.
Just because the rock is bomber doesn’t mean the fixed gear is.
Alpine environments are infinitely complex—but for Gadd that is part of their allure.
One very real concern, the filmer said, was the climber’s rope cutting over the sharp ironstone edge.
It has been a long-standing goal of mine to join the elite group of women who have climbed 5.14a on gear, and I’ve trained my ass off to do so. Here’s what I learned in the process.
As a prologue, it should be noted that all three of us—Baqar Gelashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, and I—feel grateful to have lived this adventure. The whole escapade felt like a return to a romantic era of mountaineering, yet in a natural, ecological style, with a small circle of friends, dishing out a powerful test of our capabilities.
Second Choice (5.11) is a striking splitter with its steepest moves near the top.
'The Crack in The Cosmic Egg’ is a 10-pitch aid route on Mt. Moroni. It went free at 5.13- R in November 2021.
Cassy Doolittle, 25, was caught in a storm on Christmas Day, returning to camp after a solo of Aguja Guillaumet.
Michael Wejchert’s first book profiles four keen climbers, their unlikely rescue from an obscure Alaskan peak, and the physical and emotional cost of living through it.
Climbers must build strength, encourage flexibility, and practice proper movement patterns—throughout the body—to prevent injury.
Instead of spending your climbs untangling a rope, learn a few simple methods that will help you spend more time sending.
“Woo was pretty pumped and fixated on the final hard sequence. He forgot to clip the bolt, did the moves, and then slipped off.”
Senate Bill 168 gave SAR volunteers legal immunity and—hopefully—the money they need to keep climbers, hikers, and paddlers safe.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.