Did Adam Ondra Just Have His Best Week Ever?
A first ascent of a 5.15c—Zvěřinec, then a first ascent of a V15/V16, and then a 5.14d onsight. Adam Ondra may have just had the best week of climbing ever.
A first ascent of a 5.15c—Zvěřinec, then a first ascent of a V15/V16, and then a 5.14d onsight. Adam Ondra may have just had the best week of climbing ever.
How should we think about grades? Do they even matter? What are the formulas and rules we should consider? Let’s discuss.
I asked the old man for advice, and he came through with five tried and true panaceas.
Buster Martin just became the second person to clip the chains of the two routes in contention for being the world’s first 9a (5.14d).
JG gave me some samples. Naturally, I took the little brown pills.
Slovenian athletes Domen Škofic and Jernej Kruder took an early lead in the race. Then the unexpected happened.
She sent it in just eight climbing days
Iranian authorities continue to deny any involvement.
Soloing can be great, but not everyone should do it.
Experts believe she is making statements under duress and it’s unclear if she is being held under detention or will face retribution.
Elnaz Rekabi placed fourth in this past weekend’s Asian Continental Championships. Then she went missing and rumors of her possible detainment circulated.
Front levers are just plain hard. And mysterious, because they are complex movements that involve so much more than just having six-pack abs.
I’ll level with you, dear reader: while I don’t trust gear reviews that don’t name at least a few cons, the only con here is the hefty price.
Every young competitor who thinks about cutting weight or calories should add this one to their list.
But it has changed.
In 2021, Verhoeven announced her retirement from competition climbing. She wanted to return to her outdoor roots, which she’s done with wild success.
Tactics for that next-level super hard route.
When the lactic acid builds, many climbers abandon these basic principles.
Doing your first one arm might take years of preparation. And training for one-arms requires serious decision-making, since there are many roads to success, all of which are confusing.
Is there a “limitless pill” that will make us smarter, brighter, more capable climbers?
Car trouble, an injury, a border police incident, and a pile of human excrement.
At just 4′ 11″, Beckett Hsin has been ticking boulders most grown climbers can only dream of.
Despite the price, it’s a worthy investment for those who frequently tie into the sharp end.
Swelling and pain are your body trying to heal itself the natural way
Seeking information on whether supplementing estrogen is good or bad for athletes, Gym Climber interviewed Keith Baar, Ph.D., a professor of Physiology and Behavior at UC Davis.
Climbers should be wary of the risks associated with burning fuel in an enclosed space.
You’re weaker now. So what? Here’s how to handle setbacks and get back to your old sending self.
Some nights I couldn’t fall asleep until 4 or 5 a.m. Supplementing my diet with magnesium helped.
What does it mean to try hard? Is it physical or mental, and how do we get better at digging deep? The author discusses.
Raboutou at last discloses one of his two rumored V17 ascents.
Onsighting is a practice, and there are tricks for improving. Here are nine steps that apply to both indoor and outdoor settings.
HBO just released the third episode of the Edge of Earth series, which features Emily Harrington and Adrian Ballinger free climbing on Pik Slesova, an El Cap-sized tower in Kyrgyzstan. The publicity around this show has shed light on the complexities of reporting big wall ascents.
We are all our own worst enemies. Here’s how to get off your own toes and send.
What to look for in buying your first set of draws, and a list of some of our favorites.
Climbing at your physical limit requires a five-star belay. Here’s how to cultivate one, and the types of sketchy belayers who are hopeless.
IFSC World Cups are competitions for lead, bouldering, speed, and... sometimes cheese.
The crags are getting busy. If you want to send, you’ll need to set up camp. Here’s how.
Shinichiro Nomura, 25, sent "Gakido" (V16), in Fukushima, Japan–a project that had denied 20 years of attempts.
Patagonia’s DAS Parka is warm, lightweight, and designed for climbers. Pricey, but worth the investment.
The routes and boulder problems featured at World Cups are more complex than they used to be. Are they also more dangerous?
"Your climbing shoes are your tools and should be treated as such."
Zangerl has been developing in Rakchham, a Himalayan village, for over a decade. He hopes climbers will support the local economy while preserving the area’s pristine wilderness.
On June 19, a wildfire ravaged the historic cliffside near Oliana, Spain, destroying world-class routes.
Like with Walmart versus Armani jeans, there are differences in the quality of yarns and construction used to make your harness. Here's how to pick the right harness for your objective.
Kiersch just had the best bouldering trip of her life in Magic Wood, Switzerland. In total, she put down 16 double digit boulders, two of which were V14.
Ali Raza Sadpara, leading Pakistani mountaineer, passed away from injuries on May 27 at the age of 56.
Should climbers grunt? Is it even helpful, or is it just plain rude to others at the crag and gym? Here's what studies show.
What the heck is tension? Here's what it is and how to train it.
A simple, effective solution for tight wrists, which almost all climbers have.
Bottom line, climbing is an athletic activity and you need to treat yourself like an athlete.
During the Bouldering and Speed World Cup in Salt Lake City, May 20-22, Team USA racked up three medals and two Speed records.
After 19 days in Dry Canyon, Arizona, at the Celebrity Cave, 23-year-old Ben Hanna put down an impressive list of 5.14's.
"My talent is being a masochist. My training totally breaks your body and your mind. But it’s worth it to be a champion.”
A few weeks ago, Lara Neumeier (23) and Romy Fuchs (21) each dispatched Delicatessen, a five-pitch 5.13d in Corsica. Their success came after a mere four and five days of effort, respectively.
In one month, the 23-year-old put down 19 boulders V12 and up, in addition to two 5.14d routes in the Moravský Kras area of the Czech Republic.
Last week, Nolwen Berthier joined a short list of women to have sent 5.15. In doing so, she skipped a grade.
"So with the Olympics, I was like, Yeah, it would be amazing, but I wasn’t going to be disappointed if I didn’t make it. It’s just icing on the cake that I did."
The Last Tepui, a Disney+ film, streams tomorrow on Earth Day.
Check out Delaney Miller's author page.
The fist raised in victory; the bright lights; the roaring crowd—from the outside, competition climbing seems to be all glitz and glamour. But what is it like on the inside, from the lived experience of a onetime competitor?
The benefits to giving up meat and dairy are wide ranging, but is the life-change suitable for you?
Employees at Movement Climbing, Yoga & Fitness Crystal City, in Arlington, Virginia, have worked to unionize for the past nine months. Now, their union certificate is in the mail, making the facility the first climbing gym in the country to unionize.
Your kid’s passion can be squashed if not carefully cultivated. Here are nine tips to not f*ck it up.
So how does that pink V5 in the gym’s corner stack up against outdoor boulders?
Want to climb harder without pulling harder? Then dial in your heel hooking.
Team Trials took place this past weekend, March 9-13. We now have the National team for Bouldering, Lead, Speed and the new Combined format, Bouldering and Lead.
52 minutes to solo nearly 700 feet. The two climbers want to draw attention to the courage and bravery of the Ukrainian people.
Check out Delaney Miller's author page.
Check out Delaney Miller's author page.
Athletes need a space to train. Kimanda Jarzebiak provides that, plus, everything else.
Check out Delaney Miller's author page.
“An Accidental Life,” streaming from the Big Sky Documentary Film Festival 2022 until February 26, tells the story of an accomplished big wall climber who was paralyzed by a 120-foot fall on the Nose, in Yosemite, in 2017.
Pro climber Ned Feehally’s new book, Beastmaking: A fingers-first approach to becoming a better climber, has everything you need to know about training for climbing.
In the new climbing thriller, The Ledge, lead actress Brittany Ashworth must out-climb a group of murderers to the summit. Eventually, they’re at a standoff between two ledges.
Boulders in Big Bend, near Moab, were defaced with grease over the weekend. Cleanup efforts are underway.
Ditch the treadmill. The Airofit respiratory trainer will boost your cardio for your proj.
On February 2, local police arrested Alex Fritz on three charges of third-degree child rape.
Climbing has significant social, physiological, and developmental benefits for children and young adults. But there are also things they should avoid. And things you should avoid as a parent or a coach.
Expressive writing may lead to faster recovery from injuries. It helps you organize your thoughts, de-stress, and stay motivated.
If you’re ready to take the plunge and start buying your own gear, here are a few of the most common mistakes new climbers make, with some common-sense solutions.