Neil Gresham

An expert looks at the physiology and training of older climbers by age group, from 45 to 50, from 50 to 60 and beyond.

It's easy to push your training too far, and get injured or see negative progress because you are doing too much. Knowing when to end a training session can be subtle. Here's a climbing coach's tips for guiding you through these murky waters.

Not many will argue that hitting the fingerboard will improve your climbing grade, but if simply going climbing is just as effective...

Longtime coach Neil Gresham lays out the secrets to success that have worked time and again for his climbing students. They'll work miracles for you, too.

Professional climber and coach Neil Gresham's advice for training yourself to grip holds just enough, and not so much you waste power.

Here's your checklist to stay injury-free out on the blocks.

It's easy to dismiss pinches as a grip you seldom use, but in fact you use your thumb in pinch mode more than you think. Train pinches and your overall skill and performance will improve.

Neil Gresham explains the often-baffling British grading system—and why the “eGrader” app can keep it afloat. 

Neil Gresham digs into simulation training—replicating specific moves and segments of routes and problems so you can do the impossible.

If your forearms inflate like balloons and your fingers always seem to uncurl just before the anchors, then this two-part series on endurance training is just what you’re looking for

If your forearms inflate like balloons and your fingers always seem to uncurl just before the anchors, then this two-part series on endurance training is just what you’re looking for.

Many climbers struggle to know what to do during downtime, especially on vacations when they’re away from their usual training facilities. Here's how to keep the ball rolling.

With the right type of supportive weight-lifting routine climbers can work to avoid injury and in many cases climb harder, too.

Moonboards are great and all, but training for hard, weird, outdoor moves sometimes requires something a little different.

The climber having the most fun is the one still cranking at sunset. Here's how to keep your energy levels high.

From jogging to stretching to high intensity intervals, here's what to do to support your goals.

Training takes time, effort and dedication—it might not be worth it.

Welcome to CLIMBING's 12-month training plan. This eight-phase series will present specific workouts based on the principles of periodization, a proven approach to training that results in peak performance. Each six-week segment will build upon the previous with the end result being a better, stronger climbing machine—you. Now, get started!

The key is to increase your training volume but decrease the difficulty. Here's how to do just that.

Endurance can’t be built quickly, yet at some point most of us find ourselves in a jam, with a trip booked and only a few weeks to prepare. What are the best, quick strategies for making the grade?

Are you training too much, too little, or missing the mark with your program? Coach has the beta for maximizing your approach to climbing fitness.

Climbing your best isn't just a function of pull-up strength and finger power; it's about being flexible enough to apply that strength.

Get the weight off your arms by putting more on your feet using the miracle of the drop knee. Here's how.

The second part of a three-part series on basic techniques, this lesson drills down into flagging, the move for making reaches on steep rock without having to increase your power.

Climbing straight on, hips parallel to the rock is the natural way to climb, but on steep rock this technique drains power and limits your reach. Learn the proper way to outside edge and step through and you will boost your performance without having to get stronger.

Hangboards and TRX routines can get awfully old... And they'll only get you so far on their own.

Pull-ups are the most commonly practiced training exercise for climbing, yet how much do we really know about them?

There’s a lot of hype about eccentric strength training. What are the benefits for climbers?

Pro climbers got where they are through training, practice and by learning what works on the rock and what doesn't. Here, some of their tricks for upping your game.

Slopers may be the most feared hold in climbing. But with the proper technique and training you needn't worry anymore.

Big-toe strength isn’t just handy for occasional slab climbing—we need it, and calf strength, for everything, from knee bars to molding or wrapping our feet around holds.

Keep one-hanging your project? Or feeling stuck? Here are eight easy tips for finally clipping the chains.

Knowing the tricks and training techniques for toe hooking can be a game changer.

Falling off of hold? You might not be gripping them at their full potential.

Heel hooking is a critical skill that you must master to realize your ultimate potential on the rock. Pro climbing coach Neil Gresham's nine tips will get you there.

How do top climbers stay so relaxed, precise, and controlled in their movements, right up to the point where they fall? Here's where to start.

The classic mistake is to listen to your natural instinct to save yourself by jumping from an easy warm-up route onto your target onsight for the day.

The best climbers aren't always the strongest, they have the best technique. In this first installment of our new Quick Hits series, pro coach Neil Gresham teaches maximizing footholds.

It is a myth that you need tons of space to train. A small home wall can be all you need.

Apply these key principles to your planning and watch your climbing improve.

Straps and rings aren't just for gymnasts. These six simple drills require no added weight and will bump your redpoint grade in just months.

The main thing that scientists have learned in the last decade is that we can use nutrition to trigger the release of the specific enzymes or hormones that play vital roles in the processes of getting strong or improving endurance.

Most climbers think that being good at onsighting means being good at improvising beta and hanging on for the ride. But the world's best don't just rely solely on improvisation: they map the route beforehand, from the ground.

Campusing has clear benefits for improved contact strength and explosive arm power. Here's how to get started.

At a glance, you’d think that these guys and girls might climb on a different planet than you do, yet a closer inspection may surprise you.

The causes of climbing injuries often fall into predictable patterns, and are preventable by taking a few simple precautions.

Training can get boring, or you're on the road and don't have access to your usual workout. These exercises can keep you fresh and you can do them just about anywhere.

It's the dead of winter, you're bored, tired of the cold, and unmotivated. Use coach's tips to get back in your game, now!

As a human you are programmed to climb, but your intuition isn't always correct.

At last, a comprehensive training plan from professional climbing coach Neil Gresham. This program guides you through the entire year and everyone can do it regardless of age, ability or experience.

Power-endurance conditioning will give you the fitness required for sustained climbing sequences of between 15 and 40 moves, typically encountered on sport routes.

For the sixth phase we’re returning to low-intensity endurance to top up our fitness levels for longer routes.

If you stuck with the first four phases in this ongoing series, you should be feeling fit and ready to start strength training.

You’ve been training all year long. Now it’s time to focus on the skill element and see if the hard work has paid off.

Welcome to the Climbing's yearlong training plan. This eight-phase series will present specific workouts based on the principles of periodization, a proven approach to training that results in peak performance. Each six-week segment will build upon the previous with the end result being a better, stronger climbing machine—you.

Welcome to the Climbing's yearlong training plan. This eight-phase series will present specific workouts based on the principles of periodization, a proven approach to training that results in peak performance. Each six-week segment will build upon the previous with the end result being a better, stronger climbing machine—you.

Welcome to the Climbing's yearlong training plan. This eight-phase series will present specific workouts based on the principles of periodization, a proven approach to training that results in peak performance. Each six-week segment will build upon the previous with the end result being a better, stronger climbing machine—you.

Check out Neil Gresham's author page.

From tufas to aretes and even crack climbing, it pays to know how to pinch. (And even better if you do it well!)

Climbing outside is pretty different from the gym. The holds aren't color-coordinated. The feet are smaller. The crimps are sharp. But these four tips can ease your transition outside.

Falling is part of climbing. But so, occasionally, is not falling.

Check out Neil Gresham's author page.

There's a time and place for static moves. But what do of the world's strongest climbers have in common? They are very good at moving dynamically.

Check out Neil Gresham's author page.

Which is the best way to increase the resistance of campus and hangboard exercises—using smaller holds or adding weight?

Tips for converting from indoor bouldering to the more involved and difficult world of real rock. Learn the common pitfalls to avoid.

When it comes to major injuries, everyone knows that the right call is to take the time needed to rehabilitate, while focusing on other forms of fitness training. However with minor tweaks, it may be possible to keep going without aggravating the injury further.

Most athletes build a base of general strength before concentrating on specific disciplines. For most climbers it's the other way around.

Maintaining performance for prolonged periods can be tricky.

Hangboards are a useful tool for improving finger strength, but when used incorrectly they can cause injuries. Here's what you need to know before you start up a hangboarding practice.

You want to redpoint your project, but the crag is a day's travel away, you have a job and family commitments. How do you get the ultimate send that you want while maintaining everything else?

Can we play to the strengths of our ages? Should we work more on power when we are young and endurance when old? How does our susceptibility to injury change over time and to what extent should we allow it to affect our climbing and training?

If you've ever failed on a climb because you were afraid you'd fail you aren't alone.

Lockoffs, deadhangs, static stretching .... it's all wrong and you aren't helping yourself by continuing to do the same things and expecting different and better results. Stop it!

You may think that as you age you get weaker, climb at a lower level. But older means wiser. You can leverage that.

Check out Neil Gresham's author page.

Business trips, long vacations and bad weather limit your training. Here are some tips for training on the road.