The Buddy Rappel: Rap Safely With an Injured Partner
Accidents happen. Every climber should be able to troubleshoot difficult rappel situations, and one of the best ways is by mastering the buddy rappel.
Accidents happen. Every climber should be able to troubleshoot difficult rappel situations, and one of the best ways is by mastering the buddy rappel.
"The last thing I remember after reaching the chains at the top of the route is landing feet first on the ground, crumpling in a heap."
Understand danger to stay out of out of harm’s way
If you thought you'd seen everything, you haven't.
This guy's cheapness brought danger to a new level.
Meg O’Neill died Sunday after a freak accident on 'Raven Falls' (WI4) when a large ice column broke. O’Neill saved the belayer’s life and the leader was seriously injured.
Outbursts of ego tend to be commonplace in an individualistic sport like climbing. All too often, we tie our self-worth to our accomplishments, and when others challenge our intelligence or competency, our deepest insecurities arise from within.
Was it a freak almost-accident? A parable about life and fate? Both?
A classic case of miscommunication could have spelled disaster.
Climb long enough and you’ll have a close encounter ... or several. Of the myriad ways to kill yourself climbing, rappelling is the quickest, but also the easiest to safeguard.
Basic self-rescue knowledge should be a priority of any aspiring multi-pitch climber. Knowing and practicing these skills beforehand will save you lots of headache on the wall. Being self-reliant is the responsibility of each person—you are responsible for your own safety!
This is one of the worst anchors we've ever seen and is an inappropriate use of equipment.
If I'd hopped off the ledge or tried to weight the sling, I would've fallen a few hundred feet to the ground. I felt sick to my stomach for a couple weeks after that one.
Casual cragging is anything but—the law of gravity still applies. Use this four-part checklist to beat complacency and prevent accidents.
Violating the rule "never take your brake hand off the rope," is bad enough, but this belayer took it to a whole new level of danger.
Climbers should be wary of the risks associated with burning fuel in an enclosed space.
Bad landings, bad spotters, a fear of falling that makes you more likely to fall—don't make bouldering more dangerous than necessary.
Dropped, forgotten, or mysteriously vanished gear can ruin a climbing day. Worst case, it can be life-threatening. But with a little know-how, you can recover from bone-headed mistakes and keep climbing—and also impress friends with your savvy.
Upside-down whippers are dangerous but almost always avoidable... so learn to avoid them.
You might be lighter than your partner, but you can still belay with confidence. The author shares tips from decades of climbing and guiding.
They figured they knew enough about climbing to wing it, but took a dangerous risk that could have cost them.
Use these methods for better rappelling—and rap backups.
How To Prepare For Climbing Emergency Rescue Precautions Safety Tips
A lifelong climber lays out her advice for avoiding accidents.
Climbing head injuries can happen anywhere: from the Salathé on El Cap to your favorite little sport crag. Here are five climbers' nightmare scenarios.
Head trauma is among the most feared and catastrophic injuries in climbing. So why aren't more rock climbers wearing helmets?
No matter how experienced you are, gravity never sleeps. Stay safe and stay vigilant with these 10 time-tested tips.
While highballing isn’t for everyone, its techniques—pad placement, spotting, fall strategies and so on—are.
Is toprope-soloing safe—and how can we make it safer?
There's a reason why gear is made specifically for climbing, but this guy just didn't get it.
Once you get higher than 20 feet, a spot might still seem useful. A reality check.
Coming untied from the rope while on lead doesn't happen every day, but it happens often enough that you should put the scenario on your radar.
"Four, five, six... I feel something! Rock? Bed surface? It’s nearly six feet down. Could she be that deep?"
How many pitches do you climb in a year? For many of our readers it's probably close to 1,000. If you make a critical error one out of a thousand times, the outlook is bleak.
Seven tips—to work on now and continually—for mastering the nuances of falling and catching falls.
Six surgeries in 13 months is a lot, and a lot of recovery and painkillers, and Kelly Cordes will tell you he was a little whacked even before that. An alpine, ice and rock climber, Kelly broke his ankle and pulverized his tib-fib ice climbing. He tore his knee. He destroyed his shoulder. But the worst insult was yet to come.“Leave it to me,” he says.
Internationally certified mountain guide Rob Coppolillo shares five ways to ensure a safer belay.
It's Halloween, and homegrown ghosts abound, but here's a use for bedsheets that will really have your hair standing on end.
Learn how to extend your draws to minimize rope drag and rope abrasion while making falls less dangerous.
Check out Steven Potter's author page.
A beginner climber is forced up a route, gets in a dangerous situation and her partner refuses to help. Should you intervene?
Knowing the difference between good and bad bolts can save your life.
Professional mountain guide Rob Coppolillo explains four ways simul-rappelling can be unsafe and why it might not actually save time.
Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.
There’s falling at a crag and unfortunately also crawling from it. That you do not want to do, and you can prevent it.
Check out Corey Buhay's author page.
Check out Matt Samet's author page.
Check out Bruce Hildenbrand's author page.
Check out R. Bryan Simon and Seth C. Hawkins's author page.
Check out Alexa Flower's author page.
Check out Heather Weidner's author page.
Check out Heather Weidner's author page.
Internationally certified mountain guide Rob Coppolillo explains how extending your protective gear can help avoid accidents.
Nina Williams shares three ways to improve falling technique so you can climb more safely and confidently.
Pro climber Heather Weidner shares 5 ways to be safe and considerate at the crag
Be prepared for wilderness emergencies
Check out Ryan Siacci, Esq.'s author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Follow these guidelines to maximize rappel safety
Check out Julie Ellison's author page.
Setting up a simple yet bomber anchor