Sport Climbing

Punting on routes is the necessary mental chrysalis we use to achieve the next level as climbers. Everyone does it, and it's OK.

Although the correct process to cut a rope is very simple, there are two things to keep in mind when you’re done.

That could have been a lot worse.

"The [route] description ironically says something like 'Don't blow the mantle at the top...' "

We climbers love our labels, but figuring out just what type of climber you really are begs defining.

An ice climber, a trad climber, a boulderer, and a sport climbing visit a fortune teller and learn their fates.

When the lactic acid builds, many climbers abandon these basic principles. 

Did anyone else feel their ankle snap just watching that? No? Just us? No matter—the climber, Maissa, is A-OK.

From the first women recorded in mountaineering in the late eighteenth century, to the first 5.15 female ascent by Margo Hayes in 2017.

This belayer had the best of intentions. At least the only victim was himself—and his lawn chair.

Terminally pumped? Follow these tips to achieve a restful stance on vertical rock, steep caves, corners, and more.

Steep, sandy jugs—what could be better?

Climbers often neglect limbs that can be especially useful for climbing, like the head, shoulder, knee, and hip. These seven tips show the importance of keeping an open mind and using any body part, no matter how ignoble a figure you cut.

Who said sport climbers can't take gear rippers?

The Ratstaman Vibrations project was made semi-famous by a 2012 Petzl video of Chris Sharma bolting the line and working the moves; it memorably includes a gigantic sideways dyno [insert Sharma scream] to a flat edge.

“If you knew nothing about the crag, you’d look at the line from the ground and be like ‘Wow. No. That’s totally crazy. I will never be able to do that.’ But when I knew the crag and the style and the kneebars and how to take down the rope, I was like ‘Yeah, it’s possible.’ ”

A visiting Brit arrived in this country just as sport climbing did, and witnessed the war between trad and sport.

Ask before you flail, communicate, and know when to call it quits: here's how to hangdog without wearing down your belayer.

Many climbers settle into a niche discipline in the vast expanse of the climbing universe. Some—for better or worse—get so stuck at their grade that their personalities begin to mimic the rocks and routes they choose to climb. 

When your rope is stuck, you ain’t going nowhere. Here are my hard-won tips for getting your rope unstuck and—even better—preventing it from happening in the first place.

Pro climber Heather Weidner discusses the pros and cons of two tie-in knots.

Indeed, all is well until it’s not.

Climbing is a skill sport and resting is a skill. Better learn it.

In the first installment of his “Hidden Gems” series, the French rock star does hard first ascents at Thaurac. Never heard of it? It's home to something like 1,000 limestone sport routes.

Eight tips for climbing safely in loose terrain.

⁠The end of a climbing trip can be a glorious, chain-slapping time—but there's another side to this romanticism.

This six-week program will hone you to climb the classics, whether it's a mountain, wall or long free route.

A directional is a piece of gear, be it a bolt or a cam or a nut, that places your climbing rope in the most appropriate location for zigs and zags on a climb.

When the wall kicks back past vertical, the pump clock starts ticking. It’s all about getting to the chains before that alarm goes off.

A failed clip, an inverted whip, nearly decks ... what the heck?

Climbing takes power, endurance and technique. Here's a simple step-by-step program that's concise, easy to follow and will have you climbing your best practically today.

The 3,500-foot 5.10d, Guaranteed Rugged, was a multi-year undertaking for Brent Nixon, Lisa Newhook, Sean Draper, and Kate Naus.

Nothing beats the feeling of piecing together a redpoint ascent. Here's a basic strategy for effectively working—and sending—your dream rig!

Two routes, two climbers, and a shared finish. What could go wrong?

When swinging leads on a multi-pitch route, the belay transitions are often the biggest time suck. But they don't have to be.

"A hodgepodge of slightly newer hardware dots the cliff, a marker of all the old bolts that have ripped and needed replacement over the years.”

The why, when, and how to shaking off the pump.

How do you belay “correctly” on a big free route? Well, it's complicated, but this whipper provides several solid tips.

Climbing head injuries can happen anywhere: from the Salathé on El Cap to your favorite little sport crag. Here are five climbers' nightmare scenarios.

This Weekend Whipper does almost everything right. Almost.

A photographer's journey reveals unimaginable climbing wealth and beauty, and barely scratches the surface of possibilities.

What do you get when you give two inept teenagers two huge boxes of Snickers bars, drench them in protestant work ethic, and plop them down in a sport climbing crucible like Rifle, Colorado? (Hint: it’s a less successful formula than it sounds.)

Climbing your best and most efficiently isn't just about using your hands and feet.

"I went for the wrong move that I knew I couldn't land anyways. That's when the rope flew behind my leg mid fall and flipped me upside down."

Directly linked to mental composure (hence technique) under duress, physical fitness, and your ability to recover, your heart rate is the engine driving your rock climbing. No surprise, then, that training with a heart-rate monitor (HRM) can be hugely beneficial.

How do you train specifically for your route? There are tactics to employ both on and off route.

Flash pump is real and terrible and can ruin your climbing day. And while the best way to get around flash pump is to avoid it (i.e. warm up), there are tricks to salvaging your post-flash-pump climbing day.

Send more routes first go with savvy planning and execution.

Failing on a route often comes down to beating the pump. Take these four exercises to heart and slay the demon.

This Weekend Whipper is lucky he didn't break any fingers—or impale his hand.

Hangboard training is one of the most efficient, effective ways to improve finger strength. Here's how to get started, safely and in good style.

James Pearson couldn't be bothered to clip the bolt at his waist, and he logged some serious air miles while climbing above 13,000 feet.

Rappelling in alpine terrain can be the crux of big routes. Stuck ropes, high winds, leaving gear... a lot can go wrong. Here are five tips to stack your odds.

If you can do a one-arm (or ten) but only boulder V7, it's time to train the technical side of climbing.

A comprehensive analysis of 30 years worth of data of climbing accidents recorded in Accidents in North American Climbing.

Hard climbing, spread-out bolts, a botched clip... all the fixings for a classic whipper.

Watch one of the world’s best rock climbers choose his goals, deal with setbacks, and insist on progress.

Part III of Reel Rock's "Age of Ondra" asks how one of the world’s best rock climbers chooses his goals, deals with setbacks, and insists on progress.

Check out The Editors's author page.

For generations of Kenyan climbers, Lukenya has been an important refuge and proving ground, connecting climbers from around the world with nature and with each other.

Six surgeries in 13 months is a lot, and a lot of recovery and painkillers, and Kelly Cordes will tell you he was a little whacked even before that. An alpine, ice and rock climber, Kelly broke his ankle and pulverized his tib-fib ice climbing. He tore his knee. He destroyed his shoulder. But the worst insult was yet to come.“Leave it to me,” he says.

Belaying can strain your neck, causing a host of health issues.

Internationally certified mountain guide Rob Coppolillo shares five ways to ensure a safer belay.

A few eureka moments, plus years of refinement, led to the tricks, tools, and techniques we take for granted when out bolt-wrasslin’ today.

Check out Katie Lambert's author page.

The route lay unrepeated, accruing rumors, for 18 years.

Check out Anthony Walsh's author page.

The evidence that going low-carb benefits any athlete’s performance is weak, mostly anecdotal, and often driven by dogma.

How Heather Weidner learned to embrace routes that challenged her weaknesses to become a stronger, more well-rounded climber.

Foley, a designer at Arc'teryx, has done the first ascent of Squamish's new power-endurance test-piece

How an immigrant from Portugal helped create America's premier sport climbing destination.

Knowing the difference between good and bad bolts can save your life.

Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou's 4-week plan will prepare you for those wicked overhangs.

Check out Matt Samet's author page.

America's Olympic sport-climbing medalist on the shock of advancing to finals, how he got to the Games, what it means and what's next.

It's virtually impossible to try your hardest when you're worried about taking a whip.

Injuries from elbow tendonitis and shoulder misalignment are far easier to prevent than to rehabilitate. Here are three simple exercises that should be part of your everyday routine.

Alfredo Webber bolted the line in 2017, never imagining he would rise to the challenge

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out Neely Quinn's author page.