Use This Training Program To Send Your Hardest Route Ever
How do you train specifically for your route? There are tactics to employ both on and off route.
How do you train specifically for your route? There are tactics to employ both on and off route.
Flash pump is real and terrible and can ruin your climbing day. And while the best way to get around flash pump is to avoid it (i.e. warm up), there are tricks to salvaging your post-flash-pump climbing day.
Send more routes first go with savvy planning and execution.
Failing on a route often comes down to beating the pump. Take these four exercises to heart and slay the demon.
This Weekend Whipper is lucky he didn't break any fingers—or impale his hand.
Hangboard training is one of the most efficient, effective ways to improve finger strength. Here's how to get started, safely and in good style.
James Pearson couldn't be bothered to clip the bolt at his waist, and he logged some serious air miles while climbing above 13,000 feet.
Rappelling in alpine terrain can be the crux of big routes. Stuck ropes, high winds, leaving gear... a lot can go wrong. Here are five tips to stack your odds.
If you can do a one-arm (or ten) but only boulder V7, it's time to train the technical side of climbing.
A comprehensive analysis of 30 years worth of data of climbing accidents recorded in Accidents in North American Climbing.
Hard climbing, spread-out bolts, a botched clip... all the fixings for a classic whipper.
Watch one of the world’s best rock climbers choose his goals, deal with setbacks, and insist on progress.
Part III of Reel Rock's "Age of Ondra" asks how one of the world’s best rock climbers chooses his goals, deals with setbacks, and insists on progress.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
We spot boulder problems. Sometimes we spot climbers before they clip their first piece of pro. Now imagine spotting a climber falling 60 feet.
For generations of Kenyan climbers, Lukenya has been an important refuge and proving ground, connecting climbers from around the world with nature and with each other.
Endurance isn't merely a function of fitness. The best climbers have tricks for fighting off the pump.
Six surgeries in 13 months is a lot, and a lot of recovery and painkillers, and Kelly Cordes will tell you he was a little whacked even before that. An alpine, ice and rock climber, Kelly broke his ankle and pulverized his tib-fib ice climbing. He tore his knee. He destroyed his shoulder. But the worst insult was yet to come.“Leave it to me,” he says.
Belaying can strain your neck, causing a host of health issues.
Internationally certified mountain guide Rob Coppolillo shares five ways to ensure a safer belay.
A few eureka moments, plus years of refinement, led to the tricks, tools, and techniques we take for granted when out bolt-wrasslin’ today.
Check out Katie Lambert's author page.
The route lay unrepeated, accruing rumors, for 18 years.
Check out Anthony Walsh's author page.
Learn how to extend your draws to minimize rope drag and rope abrasion while making falls less dangerous.
The evidence that going low-carb benefits any athlete’s performance is weak, mostly anecdotal, and often driven by dogma.
How Heather Weidner learned to embrace routes that challenged her weaknesses to become a stronger, more well-rounded climber.
Check out Rob Pizem's author page.
Foley, a designer at Arc'teryx, has done the first ascent of Squamish's new power-endurance test-piece
How an immigrant from Portugal helped create America's premier sport climbing destination.
Check out Neely Quinn's author page.
Check out Julie Ellison's author page.
There’s a fatal flaw to many climbers’ training regimen: monotony. Get strong by having fun.
Knowing the difference between good and bad bolts can save your life.
Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou's 4-week plan will prepare you for those wicked overhangs.
Check out Matt Samet's author page.
America's Olympic sport-climbing medalist on the shock of advancing to finals, how he got to the Games, what it means and what's next.
It's virtually impossible to try your hardest when you're worried about taking a whip.
Injuries from elbow tendonitis and shoulder misalignment are far easier to prevent than to rehabilitate. Here are three simple exercises that should be part of your everyday routine.
Alfredo Webber bolted the line in 2017, never imagining he would rise to the challenge
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Jonathan Siegrist is on a mission to push climbing to the max...looking for the hardest sport climbing the US has to offer. And sometimes that means getting out there to the back and beyond...And when you do sometimes you get to climb in places like this.
Check out Julie Ellison's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Who says toprope whips can't be epic?
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Rogora has rapidly established herself as one of the best climbers in the world, inside and outside.
A showcase of photos revealing a woman’s perspective, voice, or position in the climbing world.
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Bosi made the first ascent of a new route in Siurana called King Capella. While the 9b+ grade will need to be confirmed, the young climber's other nails-hard redpoints would suggest the grade will stick.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Erebor is now the most difficult route in Italy.
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Forging a partnership on The Young and the Rackless in sub-par conditions.
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Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Bennett Slavsky's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
After sending her first 5.15a in March, the French climber has now sent 5.15b.
Bouin rediscovered his local crag and made FAs of two new hard lines.
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Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
The route marked Ghisolfi's second 5.15c to date
Alex Megos sent Underground (5.14d) in Arco, Italy on his first try, and suggested a potential downgrade.
Check out Bennett Slavsky's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.
Check out Climbing Staff's author page.