Interview: Simon Lorenzi Makes Third Ascent of ‘Burden of Dreams’
The Belgian (who found some new beta) is arguably the first person to climb three V17s. He’s also the only person to both FA and repeat the grade.
The Belgian (who found some new beta) is arguably the first person to climb three V17s. He’s also the only person to both FA and repeat the grade.
Wybrow was descending from an ice climb in the Canadian Rockies when he and his girlfriend were struck by an avalanche.
You've heard of Alex Honnold and all of his groundbreaking ropeless ascents. But here are a few things you may not have known about Honnold, many of which are also quite impressive.
Most climbing gyms have a weight room. Let’s talk about how to best utilize yours.
This is not a list of 2023's most viewed stories or greatest ascents; instead, we compiled these pieces because you, our readers, spent serious time reading them.
Well, this is sobering.
They figured they knew enough about climbing to wing it, but took a dangerous risk that could have cost them.
82% of adolescent climbers under-ate their target calorie needs, and 86% under-ate their target carbohydrate needs. This has a cost on both health and athletic performance.
Ascend blank corners with this handbook on stemming.
Plus: Sean Bailey does Lucid Dreaming // Tomoa Narasaki flashes V16 (and downgrades to V14) // and Michaela Kiersch reveals an unlikely key to a recent success
The kid did it after just eight days of effort. Beckett joins a short list of great athletes who threw down at a young age.
Most climbing clinics have boring agendas of played-out rope skills. Here are the clinics we actually need.
We asked a number of leading trainers. The answer is a resounding "yes"—but also a resounding "no."
It's tempting to fit your shoes too tight, but easy to size them too large. Here's our advice for getting it just right.
Each climb presents different challenges for different bodies. The unique challenges you and your body face are also your best opportunities for growth.
Hang onto precious muscle mass through training and diet as you age. Your climbing depends on it.
If a nearby climber hadn't intervened the outcome could have been a disaster.
Has a climb ever refused to let you fail?
After a devastating explosion, Beirut residents are turning to climbing for hope. And with the ongoing development of classic lines on incredible rock, there’s a lot to be excited about.
The second ascent of the world’s first V17 // The world’s third 5.15d gets sent on livestream // James Pearson announces (for a second time) that he’s just done the world’s first E12 // And one of the Himalaya’s most intense North Faces finally see a first ascent.
The new Netflix documentary highlights the “rivalry” between solo alpinists Dani Arnold and the late Ueli Steck.
Souls (or lack thereof), ketamine, and new climbing terrain. 2023’s most-read articles featured everything from the tumultuous to the harrowing.
Soft yet flat performance shoes are rarely done well. Nice work, Scarpa.
Increase your odds of sending with this advice from someone who's made the mistakes so you don't have to.
Plus: Zach Galla Sends 'Sleepwalker' (V16) // Maya Ene (13) and her father (49) do 5.14c’s on the same day // and Alex Megos does far too much hard climbing in far too little time
On July 26, Lardschneider slipped on the snowfield of Chanrasik Ri and died after a 150-meter fall.
Historically, climbers cut their teeth with the help of guides or mentors. Now, a new climber can follow, scroll, and like their way towards proficiency. Or can they?
After months of consideration, James Pearson has decided to call 'Bon Voyage' the world’s first E12—fifteen years after first proposing the same grade
“It was probably too big of a grade jump!”
Dating a mountain guide can sound sexy, but there’s a lot of fine print. Here’s a primer.
Plus: Mari Augusta Salvesen repeats 'Black Mamba' (5.14b roof crack)—Sean Bailey takes his comp fitness outside—Tristan Chen does Desperanza—and Jonathan Siegrist returns to his stylistic roots.
We chatted with a few industry experts to better understand the strengths and weaknesses of each product.
“The first time I saw it, I just thought to myself, no way will I ever do ‘Black Mamba’,” says Eden of the 150-foot 14b roof crack. “I honestly felt like an impending doom just looking at it.”
USA Climbing's Zack DiCristino offers insight about getting started with a proper strength training program. (Part 1)
Hörst spoke with Climbing the day after his ascent on downgrading, kneepads, and keeping grades with the times.
20 Minutes With a Kettlebell Will Transform Your Climbing
Closures of famous crags are encouraging new development further afield, and widening the often-insular route-development community.
Because big differences in weight—surprise!—make a difference.
We all want to rock climb into our old age. To do that, we need to stay healthy. Movement mechanics, myofascial tissue mobility, nutrition, and hydration can all play crucial roles in maximizing joint health.
NEOM, a new city project being built on Saudi Arabia’s Red Sea coast, hosted an IFSC-sanctioned competition this past November. The city has been called an ecological disaster and a violation of human rights.
A 5.15a slab was recently established on UK slate, and 5.14+ slabs exist in Spanish granite—but one of the hardest slabs in the U.S. is graded just 5.13c... which might be why it's been unrepeated for 23 years.
Plus: Jesse Grupper flashes 5.14c; Kai Whaley skips two grades to climb V16; Katie Lamb knocks down two more V14s; and a podcast host finds his best bouldering form yet, thanks to not training.
“If little me could see me now and look at the body, he would probably be like, ‘There's no way he’s climbing that hard.’”
Here are some favorites from our team, which range from $20-$350, and are sure to be appreciated by beginners and seasoned tool-swingers alike.
After her fall, Whitney Clark crawled for 2.5 hours down talus and scree to reach a rescue helicopter, but ultimately suffered only minor injuries.
Lighter, greener, more durable, and just plain more useful... 2023 brought us some exciting innovations.
With 'Round Trip Ticket' (M7 AI5+ A0), Alan Rousseau, Jackson Marvell, and Matt Cornell have established one of the most impressive Himalayan routes in recent memory.
Home to more than 150 high-quality sandstone lines, the Citadel Boulders help further solidify northern Alabama as a climbing hotspot.
One of the biggest trends of late is that of celebrities getting into climbing. This got me to thinking about how I might jump on the bandwagon and polish my own brand.
“This was my first time ever falling while clipping. A huge but very safe fall.”
Sure, they’re strong and skilled. But there’s more to it than that.
The four-pitch line on Looking Glass Rock in western North Carolina is a masterpiece of route finding, knitting together a confusion of “eyebrows”—horizontal pockets that flair in all directions.
These climbers—many of which are women of color—are claiming space in climbing media by showcasing their vulnerability.
Our new weekly discussion program covers outdoor recreation and adventure
Earlier this month, the Verzasca Dam in Ticino, Switzerland, saw the return of the Red Bull Dual Ascent for its second iteration. Twelve mixed-gender teams of climbers battled it out on the 720-foot-high concrete wall, culminating in a nail-bitingly close final for Jenya Kazbekova (Ukraine) and teammate Alberto Ginés López (Spain), and the sibling team of Jernej and Julija Kruder (Slovenia), who ultimately claimed first place.
Plus: Cédric Lachat sends one of the world’s most controversial routes & Pete Whittaker nabs the 3rd ascent of 'Stranger Than Fiction'
Their 2,100-meter route was graded ED, a terse grade that feels appropriate for the duo’s proudly minimalist climbing style.
"I don’t think it felt like the hardest route I’ve ever done. … I figured adding to the conversation was better than just taking the given grade.”
It was the 23-year-old’s third free route on El Cap, after 'Golden Gate' and 'Freerider' in a day.
“I’ll be back for you, 'Prime Directive.' Hopefully with someone who will hang the draws for me.”
The crux move, a low-percentage V14, is probably one of the hardest single moves in the world.
Train anytime, anywhere with this no-equipment-necessary workout
Waterhouse had just a little crack experience, Ridal even less. But as it turns out, comp boulders have a lot in common with El Cap granite
Climber has elbow pain, and of course wonders, "Can I keep climbing?"
The Fortress of Solitude climb marks the first of the grade for Cardwell
No shoes, no problem. The barefoot Frenchman is back with another potential V17, 'L’Ombre du Voyageur.'
"A lot of people put so much emphasis on strength," Webb says, "[but] no matter how strong you are, if you can’t climb well on stone you’re not gonna get much done.”
After four seasons of work, Sabourin has become the first person to repeat Mason Earle’s trad route 'Stranger Than Fiction' (5.14), at Bartlett Wash outside of Moab.
All climbers need endurance, and there’s no such thing as too much of it.
Andrey Stepanov failed to adhere to safety requirements while planning a 2022 expedition.
It's gift-giving season! These affordable options are perfect for climbers with any level of experience.
Wrist pain following a training injury is probably referred from the climber's palm or forearm. The good news is, you can probably climb.
Sometimes, at hanging belays, there’s nowhere to hide.
Predictably, the morning’s ‘Today Show’ article led with “Jared Leto got about 30 seconds closer to Mars”
Alex Honnold has done quite a bit more than just boulder El Cap. Here’s what you didn’t know about climbing’s biggest celebrity
Having strong, well-balanced shoulders is your best chance of a) avoiding the knife, b) climbing anything, and c) a successful surgical outcome.
New to climbing? Gym bro, the shirtless dude who's constantly filming himself and campusing, can help.
The Kong Panic Draw has an ingenious “stick clip” design to skip cruxes and reachy clips.
It’s a question that’s more pressing than ever.
Plus: Brooke Raboutou flashes hard in Switzerland; Seb Bouin climbs a 5.15b; and Andre Branchizio gets the most heart-warming send of the month; and more!