Janja Garnbret Stays Perfect at Villars World Cup; Emma Hunt Surges to another American Speed Record
Here’s a rundown of all the World Cup action from both the lead and speed disciplines at Villars
Here’s a rundown of all the World Cup action from both the lead and speed disciplines at Villars
This one will make your palms sweat.
Mugs Stump spearheaded a fast-and-light approach to alpinism during the 1970s and 1980s when siege-style expeditions were still the norm. His style was a form of artistic expression: He sought purity through simplicity.
Use these stretches as a way to balance your time hangboarding, climbing, or at home to keep your hands, wrists, fingers, and elbows strong and mobile.
In August 2007, Colorado alpinists Micah Dash and Jonny Copp made an alpine-style first ascent of the Colorado Route (1,000m, VI 5.11 M6 Cl) on the east face of the Shafat Fortress (19,500 feet) in Kashmir, India. As Dash's hilarious account testifies, some surprising things went wrong.
Whereas climbing was once a niche sport of soul seekers and dirtbags, it has transformed itself into a multi-billion dollar industry. That’s had positive and negative effects on the culture of indoor climbing, which in turn shapes the community at large.
Here's your checklist to stay injury-free out on the blocks.
Heat, ice, and contrast baths have all been touted as recovery tools. But to what extent (and when) are they effective?
A roundup of all the old gear we can’t stop using
The 22-year-old spoke with us about 'Law'—the hardest route of his career—and his desire to bolt hard new American lines.
Although the Gunks are known for spectacular moderates, the most prevalent grade is 5.10, and these seven 5.10s rank among the best.
Wright recounts that time he and Alex Honnold were sandbagged
THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP: Daniel Arnold links up 5,000 feet of Swiss granite in 9.5 hours; Rachel Pearce ticks two runout 5.13s in a week; a first-ascent spree in the Karakoram; Ontario's amazing limestone cragging is at risk of closure; Leo Bøe hangs on for a battle with 'Thor's Hammer' (5.14d).
Plymouth Gin is all about keeping our oceans clean and the martinis dirty
How to care for and extend the life of the most important piece of climbing equipment.
The 20-year-old Canadian, a former competitive swimmer, did his first V15 last winter. He’s also at the heart of a vibrant young bouldering scene in Squamish.
A beginner climber is forced up a route, gets in a dangerous situation and her partner refuses to help. Should you intervene?
Probably not. But they're some of them.
If you’re an aspiring trad leader, this document will provide you with more bad advice than you can shake a rack of hexes at.
A rare glimpse of the hardware carried by John Salathé, Royal Robbins, Warren Harding and William "Dolt "Feurer to pioneer Yosemite's granite crucibles.
Austin Howell soloed harder and more often than almost anyone else in the country, documenting his exploits on Instagram and a podcast. But behind the scenes his mental health was faltering.
THE WEEKLY NEWS ROUND UP: Italian alpinists establish 'Gold Rush' (5.12a A1+; 1,970ft) on their first trip to Alaska; Drew Ruana has his "best week ever"; Katie Lamb makes the probable first female ascent of 'Chocolate Jesus' (V13).
Endurance isn't merely a function of fitness. The best climbers have tricks for fighting off the pump.
And how to prevent these simple mistakes.
Rest days back then were endless and boring and horrible, but we learned to face our non-climbing purgatory with courage
There’s a fatal flaw to many climbers’ training regimen: monotony. Get strong by having fun.
Results and a recap from this past weekend's bouldering and lead World Cup in Innsbruck.
It’s a quick, dashed-off bit of cheerleading, almost a courtesy, extended to friends, acquaintances, and random climbers at the gym and crags alike. But does it really help the climber? And why do we do it?
An experienced climber makes the mistake of lowering over another team's rope.
What was once grippy, clean stone can devolve to a soapy mess.
Field Tested: Trango's Stratus Crashpad
The author was mean to his body in the worst ways. But is he really sorry?
It's easy to dismiss pinches as a grip you seldom use, but in fact you use your thumb in pinch mode more than you think. Train pinches and your overall skill and performance will improve.
Yosemite in the early 1980s was nearly carefree living, but with an undercurrent that could pull you under, suffocate you from not knowing what you were doing or where you were headed.
Climbing was no longer about having fun—it was about fulfilling potential. I was getting stronger, but my ability to connect to anything other than my own small world had withered.
The Keto diet may be all the rage, but your body needs carbs to perform optimally and be healthy.
Either be mad about overcrowding or try these productive actions.
Here are a few reasons to haul, tips on how to do it, and some cautions gleaned from years of experience.
THE WEEKLY NEWS ROUNDUP: Austin Purdy breaks into the V16 grade; Canada's hardest-graded boulder sees a second ascent; Drew Ruana continues crushing Colorado; and Elnaz Rekabi competes for the first time since doing so without a headscarf last year.
After saving a fallen cyclist, a lifer reflects on his own goals, illogical fears, and life's finite opportunities.
Check out Michael Levy's author page.
"Twelve years ago, I’d tell my mother climbing was no more dangerous than driving. That was before I’d been to a half-dozen climber funerals in the same picnic area in Eldorado Canyon."
Editor at large Jeff Jackson literally ropes in a cast of oddballs to belay him on new routes at Sequoia National Park.
The world’s highest tattoo parlor just opened up at everyone’s favorite climbing destination.
Intriguing battles continued in this past weekend's Bouldering World Cup in Brixen, Itatly.
"Grades don’t matter as much as we tend to think they do, but at a certain point they have an impact."
There’s plenty to learn from this one.
If you’d like to add yoga to your training program, below are a few poses that open and stretch injury-prone areas.
The secret history and modern rebirth of Western Colorado’s sleepy Unaweep Canyon.
Acclaimed author Jeff Jackson gets called to help find Amanda Eller, who was missing for weeks. What he finds reveals true nature in all its forms.
The breakup between Kristin Harila and her Sherpa team, Pasdawa Sherpa and Dawa Ongju Sherpa, highlights an ongoing power disparity in the Himalaya.
The actor may have washboard abs and have taken the lead role of my teenage dreams, but I’m not impressed.
Is the world's greatest endurance sport climber going to turn into a crimp specialist?
Gotta collect 'em all.
The transgender athlete found his strength in an unlikely place: on the reality competition show ‘The Climb.’
THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP: Dave Graham does another V16 FA; Denali gets a new speed record; Michaela Kiersch's "La Rambla" video and Will Bosi's"Burden of Dreams" video both drop.
Jesse Dufton recently became the first blind person to FA a multi-pitch. But he’s indifferent to “firsts.”
Every year, the climbing gods find a way to throw a wrench in our best-laid plans
Will Bosi has dropped the video of his send of Alphane—and Lattice has dropped a longer video about Bosi’s training history.
Steve Hong, prolific first ascensionist and career dermatologist, explains the best way to heel splits, gobies, and worn tips
With the return of marquee athletes, the Prague World Cup featured memorable battles and highlights for the season thus far.
Achieve even strength on both sides of your upper body for harder sends
Laybacking cracks works well—until it doesn’t.
It’s Friday, it’s June, and if you’re anything like me, that means it’s time to watch all the week’s new climbing videos. Here are some that I thought were especially worth your time.
Some blame the weather, while others point the finger at the economic trends that are shaping Himalayan mountaineering.
Alpine bouldering requires way more effort and consideration than a casual day at your roadside rocks.
Most know him for his historic big wall ascents in Yosemite. But in fact, his favorite pastime was always bouldering. Here, he reflects on the discipline's evolution.
Queerness is not a deficit that I was unfortunate to be born with, it’s an asset that both sets me apart from the crowd and connects me to so many others. By embracing myself as both a gay man and an athlete I have the ability to assure young people, who may be feeling the apprehension that I did, that gay people are not only all around us, but we don’t have to hide who we are to get respect.
From high-altitude ATMs to walking up Kilimanjaro backward, here are some of the weirdest alpine records.
‘Both & Neither’ profiles two Mexican American climbers who have spent their lives attempting to bridge their two cultures, trying to find a space that feels like home.
And maybe even learning to love them.
THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP: The iconic line, 'Biographie', has now seen 19 ascents; Nat Bailey demonstrated the power of audacious goals with his Squamish ascent; and more.
How to reach past your shortcomings.
The Moose’s Tooth, topping out at 10,335 over Alaska’s Ruth Gorge, is one of the most iconic formations in North America.
I’d like to propose the following DIY tools for staying fit. By embracing the current hipster ethos of artisanal, hand-built, small-batch wares, we can still stay fit easily and with very little cash outlay.
Don’t believe that this resting exercise will improve your climbing and change your life in only 5 minutes a day? Try it for one month and get back to me.
The list of dangerous climbing acts continues to grow.
By repurposing old climbing-media tropes, Barr, Bisharat, and Rosen reveal a core truth about our sport, while also bringing our attention to one of the world’s most marginalized communities.
Critiques are tough—but so is belaying. Here’s to approaching both with caution.