Will Bosi Sends ‘Burden of Dreams’ (V17)
The 24-year-old Scot says that the problem is by far his hardest to date.
The 24-year-old Scot says that the problem is by far his hardest to date.
This week’s whipper is a reminder that geologic time includes now.
Bouin had one of the greatest years of sport climbing on record last year, making the first ascent of DNA (5.15d), Nordic Marathon (5.15b/c), and Suprême Jumbo Love (5.15c), and repeating Change (5.15c), Jumbo Love (5.15b), and Iron Curtain (5.15a).
Our best training articles, categorized by subject.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
The climbers were navigating the Khumbu Icefall when a serac collapsed above the glacier.
Why do some people take Tums for cramps while other people drink pickle juice? And why, in most cases, are bananas utterly unhelpful?
Jackson Marvell, Matt Cornell, and Alan Rousseau put up Aim for the Bushes (VI M6 X AI 6; 5,250ft) in a three-day push.
The air under me when I had started up didn’t seem consequential, but now it was all I could think about, the foot slipping, hands skipping off the polished rock, a long fall to the base.
“I was like, My life has been completely meaningless up to this point. What do I need to do to change that? What do I need to do to prevent myself from feeling this way ever again?”
THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP: Jorge Díaz-Rullo has the most successful “unsuccessful” climbing season we've ever seen; Anna Liina Laitinen ticks 5.14d; Aidan Roberts flashes V14; 5.14 R trad gets three quick repeats (including a flash!).
For Heckmair, the Eiger climb was only the prelude to a lifetime of extreme journeys among mountains, deserts, jungles—as well as to the poles of humanity: over the course of nine decades he has crossed paths with personalities ranging from Hitler to the Dalai Lama.
Best practice for climbers is now to pack out your poo.
By “Kevvie” Corrigan, age 15
The purpose-built climbing gym represents a zeitgeist of our age. At the heart of it is the humble spray wall.
This story goes beyond gross.
From the print archive: "Having one leg created new balance points, and understanding them was crucial for progressing to the point where I am able to climb routes now that I wasn’t able to climb pre-accident."
Meg O’Neill died Sunday after a freak accident on 'Raven Falls' (WI4) when a large ice column broke. O’Neill saved the belayer’s life and the leader was seriously injured.
This climber knew “the fall would be clean” so committed to running out the crux. He almost made it.
Xavier Abdullahi thinks initiatives like this one is a good start, but nowhere near the end.
How the internet became a climbing-anger machine.
In 1966 competing teams raced up the Petit Dru in the Alps above Chamonix, France, to save climbers stranded on the wall. (From 2017)
Slash grades can be useful—they broaden the range of what a route might be, which means you can approach the climb with a broader range of expectations. I get, however, that not everyone feels this way
There are a lot of misunderstandings around about why exactly we need to protect wilderness climbing and what those protections actually mean. Here are the facts.
Outbursts of ego tend to be commonplace in an individualistic sport like climbing. All too often, we tie our self-worth to our accomplishments, and when others challenge our intelligence or competency, our deepest insecurities arise from within.
Quinn Brett told her story to producer Paddy O’Connell for an episode of The Daily Rally podcast. It has been edited for length and clarity.
THE NEWS ROUNDUP: Comeback sends, a promising crew at Burden of Dreams, a Swiss first ascent, and the best recent YouTube videos.
Deep in the Cascades, you can top out huge walls without placing gear or pulling 5.10 moves on routes like Flyboys, which climbs 1,800 fully bolted feet at an achievable 5.9. (From 2020.)
They didn’t just discover a tear. I had severed almost everything, including my brachial artery, but not my nerve. The clock was racing.
The Conservation Team is composed of land restoration experts who travel the country and work on bringing climbing areas back to health. But they need our help.
Arousal regulation and mental toughness are crucial for success on climbs at your limit. Knowing when to activate your mind and how to control it takes practice, and here Justen Sjong shares his insight.
Bob Van Belle once wrote:“Woodson’s greatest significance lies in its past.” But the glory of the crag resides as much in its beauty and the joy of current climbers as it does in its history.
An NPS spokesperson reported that the “people movers” will make it easier for tourists to navigate between boulders in the heat of summer.
Patagonia’s new film, ‘Ascend’, follows three women who escaped from the Taliban and rediscovered climbing and community in Yosemite
A Goldilocks catch: soft, airy, and just right.
An eight-part questionnaire
After over a year of effort, Sharma clipped the chains on 'Sleeping Lion,' his second 5.15c. We caught up with Sharma to hear more about his process, training, and how he’s managed to balance his family, career, and climbing goals.
Empty MoonBoards are nice, but you might be missing something else.
Having spent the better part of three weeks in El Potrero Chico, I was emotionally prepared for what might have otherwise been a very disturbing discovery.
Kareemah Batts shared her story with producer Paddy O’Connell for an episode of The Daily Rally podcast. It has been edited for length and clarity.
THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP: Jana Švecová has worked out all of the moves on 'Terranova' (V16); Dai Koyamada FA's another V15 after building one helluva platform; and Matt Fultz repeats a Brione V16.
Putting the new Mago to work on everything from board-style granite boulders to limestone sport routes, our testers loved the shoe’s versatility
Once the training and physical preparation are done, and we’re at the crag in front of our objective, sending just isn't about strength. We have to cultivate a presence of mind, relax into our bodies, and climb at our peak of performance. All of which requires... breath.
This isn't a guide to 2023's freshest gear. It's just what we're psyched on.
“Aside from knowing how to safely operate the belay devices, giving a soft catch is the most important, and least understood, aspect of great belaying.”
Check out Josh Howard's author page.
How did he get away with that?
"Maybe this is shallow, but you’ve let yourself go. When we first met, you were hangboarding three days a week. These days you’re lucky to get in the gym one day"
Let the debate begin! Here are the best 25 boulder problems in America... or 25 of the best... across a wide swath of regions and grades. (From 2021)
Inyo County is under disaster declaration while roads to many popular boulder fields and crags remain closed.
Guidebooks have changed. It’s not so much the slick paper and color photos. Those are nice. It’s the stories creeping in among the routes that I really like.
An incomplete (but very long) list of the best films streaming online right now, organized by streaming service. Updated March 22, 2023.
For 40 years the Windtower had just one terrifying route up its Northwest Face. Now it has three, each established in a vastly different style.
A grapefruit-size cancerous tumor nearly killed Dr. Favia Dubyk. The physician committed to spending as much time as possible doing what she loves most
THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP: A historic V15 gets an upgrade; a 2,000-foot FA on Aguja Poincenot; and another hard-trad tick for Anna Hazelnutt.
When Russia invaded Ukraine in February 2022, Ukrainian climbers mobilized against the invaders in many ways. CLIMBING sent longtime contributor Ed Douglas to Ukraine to hear some of their stories.
He spent his days pursuing climbing, mountaineering, trail running, snowboarding, and whatever else could get him into the mountains. He was killed in battle on June 11, 2022, a week before his 36th birthday.
Sergei Zheleznyak, of Kharkiv, was killed in combat in mid-March 2023, and posthumously awarded the Order of Bogdan Khmelnitsky in the third degree for his service. Outside his military service, Zheleznyak was a member of Kharkiv’s Rotary International, a talented dancer, and a mountaineer.
Dr. Leonid Gambarov was killed on April 25, 2022, during the shelling of Derhachi, a small town near his native Kharkiv in eastern Ukraine. Gambarov made over 100 first ascents in the alpine during his lengthy climbing career.
Taras Pona was a fierce Ukrainian patriot and an avid mountaineer. He died at the age of 50 on October 21 near Bachmut.
Check out Owen Clarke's author page.
He was a candidate for a Master of Sport in rock climbing and he worked at Kharkiv’s climbing gym, Vertical, often volunteering to organize competitions and be a judge. At the age of 35, he died alongside his lifelong friend and fellow climber Oleksandr Zakolodny.
He was a climber, mountaineer, hiker, paraglider, swimmer, enduro rider, and more—pursuing any activity that could take him to unique and beautiful places. He died on the frontlines of the war two days before his 28th birthday.
We’ve endeavored to recognize the climbers who lost their lives in the war effort
He was a highly accomplished climber, nicknamed the “Snow Leopard” for his seemingly effortless pace while scaling 7000- to 8000-meter peaks.
Dmitry Alexandrovich Kochetkov, of Kharkiv, was killed on April 19, 2022. The 42-year-old combat medic was a spirited rock climber and mountaineer throughout his life, climbing everywhere from the Pamir and Caucasus to the Crimea and Carpathians.
"Exploding pieces of metal hit me like bullets. I’m dropping through swift jerks of ripping gear. All of the protection pulls... except for one wire behind a wobbling spike." (From 2010.)
Will Bosi has been livestreaming his attempts on Burden of Dreams. There's a lot to talk about.
“He was completely fine, in a shock to us all.”
Check out this hard-won advice from one of climbing's veterans.
An Excerpt from Majka Burhardt's new memoir, "More", which (in our reviewer's words) describes Burhardt's "painful metamorphosis from nomadic adventurer to pregnant spouse" and "reflects the conflicts so many of us face as we transition in and out of climbing and in and out of wanting something more."
When considering avalanches, skiers are often the first group to come to mind. But avalanches are just as perilous for ice climbers, and perhaps more deadly.
River Barry, a climber in the right place at the right time, leads a daring rescue of a BASE jumper stranded high on a cliff.
Climbing, no matter how you define it, is hard, and however anyone chooses to go up a wall is valid. But when it comes to reporting on ascents, details are everything.
Currently, climbing access is only available through a permit, and those permits are extremely limited, unpredictable, and highly restricted.
THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP: how Cameron Hörst increased his already impressive 5.14d ticklist by 50%; why Tristan Chen re-projected a V14; and how Colin Duffy can make his first V16 look so easy.
Lauren Olivia Smith was partway up ‘Code Red’ in Hyalite when the pillar toppled over “like a falling tree,” triggering an avalanche.
Project Direct coaches take a statistical dive into the strength tests and surveys of 600 climbers and find some interesting results
No so long ago, hand jamming seemed a trad-only skill. But now jams play a crucial role in World Cup Comps and on America's first 5.15c sport route. Is it time you learned?
The 'Tom Egan Memorial Route' (5.14) was Canada’s hardest alpine rock climb. The entire route fell off of Snowpatch Spire last December.