All Content
The Real Secret to Effective Power Training
You can train long or you can train hard, but not both—which is probably why so many of us train power so incorrectly.
Flood in the Desert: How Tidal Wave of Climbers is Reshaping Bishop, California
“It only takes a few people a year to really do some damage.”
Are Paid Training Plans & Coaches Worth it? This Climber Decided to Find Out.
The author, a V3/V4 climber, tries to break out of a multi-year plateau by signing up for a training program.
Climbers Rescued At Tahquitz
This was the second call to action by Riverside Mountain Rescue at Tahquitz in as many months, the first involving a double fatality.
My Friend, Hilaree Nelson: Emily Harrington Remembers the Legendary Ski Mountaineer
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Climbers, Don’t Stop Talking About Your Eating Disorders
Our community has come a long way towards educating climbers about the dangers of disordered eating. But mere progress isn’t enough.
Don’t Be “a Glorified Security Camera”: Cameron Maier on Being a Climbing Filmmaker
“You’ve got to find a cool angle or a cool story or something interesting to say.”
Newcomers Make Big Statements at US National Championships
The 2022 USA Climbing National Championships took place in Denver, Colorado from November 9 through 13. Here are the results.
Will Gadd: Training for Climbing Isn’t as Hard as You Think
“I think we’ve forgotten that in order to be good at climbing, you have to climb.”—Jonathan Siegrist, who is a nicer guy than you or me and climbs harder, too.
Lessons Learned from an Unhitched Climber
If I'd hopped off the ledge or tried to weight the sling, I would've fallen a few hundred feet to the ground. I felt sick to my stomach for a couple weeks after that one.
Five Steps to Becoming a Real Climber and Sending All Your Projects
I asked the old man for advice, and he came through with five tried and true panaceas.
Weekend Whipper: Going for Broke on 5.13- Trad FA
'Love as a Weapon' is a stiff new route in Squamish, BC.
Was ‘Hubble’ or ‘Action Directe’ the First 9a? Buster Martin Weighs In
Buster Martin just became the second person to clip the chains of the two routes in contention for being the world’s first 9a (5.14d).
How the Access Fund Saves Climbing Areas
The Access Fund does many things, but one of their most effective strategies has been to help local climbing organizations acquire and protect threatened climbing areas.
Inside the FA of ‘Passage to Freedom’: El Cap 5.13d
The route features hard slab, 5.13+ seams, and a 5.13c finger crack of such high quality that the climbers named the ropelength "As Good as It Gets."
Lattice Training’s Ultimate Guide to Better Hangboarding
Here's what you need to know to get stronger without getting injured.
Could This Be 2022’s Best Gym Shoe? La Sportiva Mantra, Reviewed
Gym-climbing movements are more varied than ever. And amidst the deadpoint hucks and run-and-jump dynos, the Mantra is perhaps the best new shoe to take on such limitless variety.
Jonathan Siegrist Repeats ‘Flex Luthor,’ Skeptical of 5.15b Upgrade.
Siegrist has an encyclopedic familiarity with America’s hardest routes; he’s skeptical about the recent upgrade to 5.15b.
The Public Comment Period for Yosemite’s Big Wall Permit System Closes Soon
Big wall permits are here to stay in Yosemite. But what they look like is still evolving. Make yourself heard before November 16.
A Look at One of America’s Hardest, Thinnest Sport Crags
From the archive: James Lucas finds his way (and our history) at the Virgin River Gorge.
How to Return to Climbing After an ACL Tear
Climbers, particularly climbers who boulder, are at increased risk of knee injury. Here's how to come back from such an injury.
Is Climbing on Psychedelics a Good Idea? Depends Who You Ask
JG gave me some samples. Naturally, I took the little brown pills.
Cedar Wright: “It’s Bad Style to be Careless With Your Life”
In 2007 Cedar Wright and Renan Ozturk made an alpine-style FA of the 2,500-foot Northern Cat’s Ear Spire, the last unclimbed spire in the Great Trango Group. In the process he realized a thing or two about "style."
A Climber We Lost: Nathan Roberts
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
When Inexperience Could Be Deadly
This new climber didn't know how to belay or even lower from a fixed anchor, bungling both in unimaginably awful ways.
Studies Show Women Under-acknowledge Accomplishments. It Can Impact Their Climbing
"Female climbers are often less confident than their male counterparts, but it’s nurture, not nature. And that’s something we can beat."
Weekend Whipper: Cheese-grater Slab Will Make You Wince
Those “easy sends” can still leave a mark.
Complacency Kills! Here’s a Checklist for Staying Safe
Casual cragging is anything but—the law of gravity still applies. Use this four-part checklist to beat complacency and prevent accidents.
What’s An Injured Tommy Caldwell Up To? A Q/A With Mr. El Cap.
"I think over the years—and I couldn’t have told myself this when I was younger—I’ve learned ... not to have my life’s worth be dependent on one thing."
I Was 48 and Had Tried Everything. Here’s What Helped Me (Finally) Send
Getting old can be a real mind warp: you train just as hard, you rest more, you clean up your diet. And nevertheless, you get weaker. By the end of the 2021 season, at age 48, I knew something had to give.
Séb Bouin Just Established the Hardest Route in America (5.15c)
Suprême Jumbo Love (5.15c) is a 65-foot direct start to Jumbo Love: America’s first 5.15b.
How the World’s Boldest Climbing Area Got that Way
How headpointing became a legitimate, go-to tactic on Peak District gritstone.
The Most Dangerous Thing About Bouldering (Isn’t What You Think)
An experience on the purple boulder problem at the gym altered the author's life course in an unexpected way.
Will Bosi Claims the Third Ascent of ‘Alphane.’ He’s Reluctant to Confirm the Grade
“I personally felt that ‘Honey Badger’ (V16) was more of a challenge for me.”
The Despondency Point: When Hopelessness Helps You Send
"In a sport that prizes youth and energy and boldness and good health, it is, I realize, anathema to confess to any sort of weakness..." But sometimes embracing your weakness can help.
Kid on the Way? Embrace Being a Trad Dad With a Dad Bod
Have a kid and life as you know it is over. Retire those kneepads and downturned shoes, welcome to strollers and diapers and poos.
Learn Climbing’s Safety Essentials With Conrad Anker
Get safety tips and other advice from one of climbing's most prolific and knowledgeable climbers in this three part online video course.
Aconcagua, The Americas’ Highest Mountain
Aconcagua is perhaps the easiest climb of its elevation, but kills climbers each year—and shouldn’t be underestimated.
The Problem is “Unchanged by the Number”: Aidan Roberts on the 2nd Ascent of Alphane
On October 20, Aidan Roberts made the second ascent of “Alphane,” a V17 established by Shawn Raboutou in Switzerland last spring. We caught up with Aidan to chat about it.
First Look: Grivel G22 PLUS EVO Crampons
Toothy front points and a super-secure adjustment system make the G22 PLUS EVO a must-have for technical mountain travel
How to Trick Your Partner Into Climbing What You Want to Climb
Any time spent helping your partner achieve his goals is time not crushing your projects.
The Six Best Climbing Trips to Gift Your Spouse
From Red Rock to Acadia, Asheville to Maui, these climbing destination are unforgettable stocking stuffers.
Want to Improve Your Onsighting? Try This.
How personality traits and hangdogging can be leveraged to make you a better first-effort climber.
Yep: There was a 600-foot Multipitch Race up a Swiss Dam
Slovenian athletes Domen Škofic and Jernej Kruder took an early lead in the race. Then the unexpected happened.
Nims Purja’s Record on the 8,000-Meter Peaks Is Safe—For Now
Kristin Harila was unable to obtain an entry permit from China to climb Cho Oyu and Shishapangma, putting her two peaks shy of the record.
Mythical Speed Barrier Broken On The Naked Edge: 22:44
The big question was when—or even if— a party would eclipse the 24-minute mark on one of the finest multi-pitch climbs in North America.
“Add Some More Bolts” Says Snake Dike First Ascensionist
"Snake Dike is a lovely route on one of the great monoliths of our planet. Had we had more time and more bolts, we would have [placed more bolts] ourselves during the first ascent."
Stay Healthy And Climbing By Boosting Your Immune System
Eating the right foods, staying hydrated and active can keep you out of the sick bed and climbing all season long.
Climbing to be Permanently Banned at Massacre Rocks, Idaho
The BLM’s decision, made in acknowledgement of the site’s importance to the Shoshone-Bannock people, will remove hundreds of routes—significantly changing climbing opportunities in southeast Idaho.
Want to Get Better at Trad Climbing? Go Aid Climbing
Aid climbing is the one sure-fire way to accelerate the trad climbing learning curve
Famed Mountaineer Bradford Washburn Left a Cache of Gear on a Glacier 85 Years Ago. It’s Been Found.
In 1937, Washburn left his cameras and gear behind while attempting to hike out of the Saint Elias Range. Almost a century later, freeskier Griffin Post set out to find the cache.
The Promise Of The Rocks, Remembering A Lost Partner
I walk toward Grandma Peabody, the first boulder we climbed all those years ago. Our friends are with me. We carry climbing shoes and crash pads, sandwiches, Baby, Josh’s ashes.
Weekend Whipper: Sharp Reflexes Keep This Climber Off the Deck
Some say the most dangerous section of a sport climb is between the second and third bolts.
Anak Verhoeven Continues Sending Spree with 15a Tick
She sent it in just eight climbing days
Why a 6-Foot Fall Can Be More Dangerous Than a 100-Foot Fall
CRACK! The jolt back onto the bolt, into which you are still quickdraw-tethered, stuns you. You only fell two feet, but your neck is stiff and your innards feel like they’ve been kicked by a mule.
Clinics, Sandstone, and Pancakes at Third Annual Adaptive Climber’s Festival
With nearly 100 adaptive athletes and 60 volunteers, this year’s ACF was more than twice the size of the previous fest.
Remembering Larry (Yau Chiun) Shiu, Dedicated Alpine Guide
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Want To Climb 10 Routes A Day? Then Don’t Train So Hard.
The key is to increase your training volume but decrease the difficulty. Here's how to do just that.
Punt, Quit, Give Up, Everyone Does, Even The Best
Punting on routes is the necessary mental chrysalis we use to achieve the next level as climbers. Everyone does it, and it's OK.
Elnaz Rekabi Reportedly Under House Arrest
Iranian authorities continue to deny any involvement.
Opinion: Not Retro-Bolting Is Irresponsible. A Doctor Sounds Off.
To leave a poorly protected, dangerous line without simple updates ... is sort of like saying we shouldn't fix poorly designed roads or traffic intersections.
Injuries Are Common for Beginner Climbers. They’re Also Often Preventable.
In recent years, there has been an uptick in indoor-bouldering injuries among newer climbers. Use these tips to help you boulder safely without getting injured.
Alex Honnold’s Latest Absurdity, the HURT, is the Real Deal
32 hours, 35 miles, 23 summits, 14 classic rock routes, and 24,000 feet of vertical gain—that’s the Honnold Ultimate Red Rock Traverse
What Makes a Climb Newsworthy?
"How do you decide what climbs to write about? What makes a route newsworthy in the first place, and why are the fifth or tenth ascents of a route sometimes newsworthy and sometimes not?"
Seb Bouin Claims 4th Ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b)
Despite the rugged approach and harsh desert conditions, the French endurance master sent America’s first confirmed 5.15b after just ten days on the route.
How an Instagram Poll led to a Free Soloist’s Desperate Flatiron Rescue
Soloing can be great, but not everyone should do it.
When Homemade Gear Works, Sorta
When you don't have climbing gear, you can make your own, and suffer the consequences.
Lessons From 30 Days Spent Stuck in a Snow Cave
During the storied 1968 ascent of Cerro Chaltén, five climbers spent 30 days sheltered in two different 10' by 10' ice caves on the mountain.
Watch Seb Bouin do Hard FAs on French Alpine Limestone
Surprise, surprise, France has yet another barely-touched limestone mecca.
Do Climbers Have Expiration Dates? A Lifer Contemplates His Old Age
Most walls will stand the test of time. We as climbers will not.
Retro-Bolt Snake Dike? Peter Croft, John Long Think So, Others Debate.
Five veteran climbers, Peter Croft, Jeff Jackson, John Long, Pete Takeda, and Dougald MacDonald argue the issue of retro-bolting older moderate routes with big runouts.
Patagonia’s New Hardshells Take Eco-friendly Approach, Still Burly as Ever
We tried to best this suit's waterproofness while camped out in a coastal rainforest, climbing slushy spring ice, on backcountry ski approaches, and long winter routes. The Dual Aspect hung tough.
Is it Time to Cut Your Rope? Here’s How to Tell.
Although the correct process to cut a rope is very simple, there are two things to keep in mind when you’re done.
Need to Build Some Endurance Stat?
Endurance can’t be built quickly, yet at some point most of us find ourselves in a jam, with a trip booked and only a few weeks to prepare. What are the best, quick strategies for making the grade?
The Horror: Accidentally Used A Not-For-Climbing Carabiner For Belay Anchor
This climber was experienced, too. Just shows that you can't be too careful when you climb.
Combined World Cup Provides an Olympic Sneak Peek. Grossman and Mori Engage in an Epic Battle. Results.
The IFSC punctuated the 2022 season with a one-off Combined World Cup in Morioka, Japan.
Is This Our Best Bouldering Area? It’s Hard To Argue Otherwise.
“I’ve been scrubbing climbs that are V15 that I’m literally saving for when Jimmy [Webb] or someone comes back in town... There’s a lifetime of climbing here.”
From the Archive: #Dawnwall and The Creation of Alex Honnlove
Not to be confused with the Dawn Wall—a 5.14d on El Capitan—#Dawnwall is actually something less quantifiable and slightly more perplexing for climbers.
We Stand With Elnaz Rekabi
In not wearing her hijab, Elnaz Rekabi has become a symbol for the anti-regime movement. We hope she is safe and that her wellbeing is unthreatened, but we fear the worst.