No topo, no guidebook, no fixed lines—just a drill, a handful of bolts, and a steep wall of knobby rock. My team and I learned the hard way what it takes to establish a big wall route on lead.
Anna Hazelnutt recounts digging deep to send 'Air Madagascar' (5.13d; 400m) with Matilda Söderlund.
Taylor Martin is proving that Yosemite is far from climbed out with her new, 1600-foot first ascent, ‘Hummingbird’ (5.9+ A4).
To keep things sporting, the team kayaked 280 miles, fended off polar bears, dangerously large waves, and their own inexperience in such lightweight boats.
On big wall climbs, strategy is as important as strength and skill when it comes to determining success and failure.
"After those first few days, I noticed that he hadn’t used the bathroom—he’d been too afraid to remove his harness leg loops. On day four..."
The “Dodo’s Delight” crew is back for more sail-to-climb adventures, this time on the east coast of Greenland.
Sasha DiGiulian, Brette Harrington, and Matilda Söderlund traveled to Spain to tackle 'Rayu,' 16 pitches of biting limestone. For DiGiulian, it signaled a return to the height of her athletic career.
Big wall permits are here to stay in Yosemite. But what they look like is still evolving. Make yourself heard before November 16.
Alex Honnold's free solo of El Capitan did not occur in a bubble of solitude and inspiration. In this archive piece, originally published shortly after Honnold's ascent, James Lucas dives into the story (and backstory) of Honnold's path to Freerider.
Solid on 5.9 gear routes? Ready for the greatest adventure of your life? From hauling to lower-outs and poop tubes, our step-by-step guide will show you the way.
The team of five repeated the 2,400-foot route over 11 days.
Knowing the difference between good and bad bolts can save your life.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl sent Odysee, the most difficult route on the Eiger, in just 16 hours.
Smythe fell 1,500 feet after a ledge collapsed and severed his rope.
Check out David Allfrey's author page.
From big wall speed records to long free climbs, Adams does it all, and he recently ticked his hardest free climb to date, the FA of the 1,300-foot Wayward Son (5.12c) on Lost Brother.
Check out Adam Nawrot's author page.
Check out Miranda Fengel's author page.
Check out Hannah Gartner's author page.
Check out Hannah Gartner's author page.
Check out Bennett Barthelemy's author page.
Check out Hannah Gartner's author page.
Check out Kyle Elmquist's author page.
The unlikely climbing partners have a 39 year difference in age, but the same unwavering drive to climb hard, climb a lot, push, and learn from one another.
Check out Alexa Flower's author page.
Check out Alexa Flower's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out Gina Freund's author page.
DeWeese started climbing to quiet the voices in his head soon after his sister died in a car accident. Today, 17 years later—especially as he’s mid-pitch and strung out above a string of tipped-out bird beaks on a big wall—all is silent.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Are big-wall speed climbers pushing too far?
Check out Kevin Riley's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
It took Magro, from Bozeman, Montana, two years to tick his most demanding route to date—the FA of the 10-pitch Yellow Wolf.
Check out Kevin Riley's author page.
Check out David Allfrey's author page.
Notable previous Nose record holders lend perspective to Honnold’s and Caldwell’s sub-two-hour ascent
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out Chris Van Leuven's author page.
Check out Jeff Chapman's author page.
Brandon Adams and Kristoffer Wickstrom spent 10 days opening thin seams next to Yosemite's most-famous big wall route.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
A look back at two historic Yosemite climbing accidents.
Dierdre Wolownick embraces retirement from 3,000 feet up
Pro climber Madaleine Sorkin shares her six favorite big-wall experiences.
Gobright and Reynolds climb El Capitan route in 2:19:44.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Free: Yosemite Big Wall Climbing With Jorg Verhoeven and Katha Saurwein
Check out Johanna Flashman's author page.
Check out Johanna Flashman's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out Kevin Corrigan and Brendan Blanchard's author page.
Check out Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers and Park Geologist's author page.
Master hauling for your first big wall
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out Mike Libecki's author page.
The challenge and mystique of Pakistan's Trango Tower in the Karakoram
Check out Dean Fidelman's author page.
Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.
Lessons in Pulling on Gear in Zion
El Potrero Chico, Mexico, is a big wall sport climbing paradise with short approaches, a tight community, and the world's best and biggest margaritas. When Editor Julie Ellison set off on her own life-list trip south of the border, she had no idea that the experience would change her as a climber forever.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.
Check out David Allfrey's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Embracing The Way of the Turtle