Utah

While projecting a new 5.15a, Lightner forms an unlikely connection with "cancelled" Joe Kinder—without creating a redemption narrative.

We talked with local climbers to discover the impacts

We caught up with Lightner to learn more about ‘Death of Villains,’ his training, and—after an eight year interlude—what it took to surpass what he believed to be the peak version of himself.

“If little me could see me now and look at the body, he would probably be like, ‘There's no way he’s climbing that hard.’”

It's desert tower season! The five outlined here are all, at 5.11 or easier, within reach of most mere mortals.

Last year it was 'The Crew' (5.14c). This year, it'll be 'Fat Camp' (5.14d). This year alone, the 21-year-old has already put down three 5.14d's and his first 15a.

Check out Julie Ellison's author page.

Laybacking cracks works well—until it doesn’t.

Kaitlyn Brann, 34, was killed by rockfall on a popular route

Meg O’Neill died Sunday after a freak accident on 'Raven Falls' (WI4) when a large ice column broke. O’Neill saved the belayer’s life and the leader was seriously injured.

Let the debate begin! Here are the best 25 boulder problems in America... or 25 of the best... across a wide swath of regions and grades. (From 2021)

River Barry, a climber in the right place at the right time, leads a daring rescue of a BASE jumper stranded high on a cliff.

It has been a long-standing goal of mine to join the elite group of women who have climbed 5.14a on gear, and I’ve trained my ass off to do so. Here’s what I learned in the process.

Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.

Back in 1979, tower trips could be serious business. Spring-loaded cams had yet to debut. Falls were rare, but potential air was huge.

“The idea that a lawsuit attacking [Bears Ears National Monument] is going to do a better job protecting cultural resources is just absurd.”

At crags around the state, classic boulders have been modified to make them easier. Here’s the lowdown.

Climbing caught up with Chris Winter, Executive Director of the Access Fund, to talk about what this means for climbers, local tribes, and the long-term health of the region.

Get this high elevation rock while you can!

Thou shalt read this and do as I sayeth.

Whether you’re already an offwidth fan or are ready to face your fears, check out this list for some of our favorites.

Eight routes that keep the adventure high and the difficulty manageable.

Take a look at some of the best hand-sized crack climbs across the country, from Nevada to West Virginia.

Some climbers wait to attempt famous free routes until they’re good enough to do them in perfect style. But what if you are never that good? Purists would say you should stay off the climb—leave it for those who have the necessary strength and talent. I say go for it, with a few points of A0.

Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.

It doesn’t take much to learn the basics (ice axe and crampon use, self-arresting techniques, snow hazard analysis) and unlock big new terrain for yourself.

Check out Alison Osius's author page.

The first ascent of Castleton Tower, the world's most iconic desert spire, went down 60 years ago. So what has changed—and what hasn't—since?

Dakota Walz set out in 2019 to climb 5,280 vertical feet of first ascents in the American Southwest. Along the way, he faced uncertainty, fear, doubt, loose rock, and runouts—and many times wondered: Is the project even worth it? In the end, he learned it was the process that mattered—not just the summits.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Margo Hayes, normally known for her sport climbing, gets high on a bloc in Joe's Valley, Utah.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out Bennett Slavsky's author page.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Enormous swaths of public land around Moab have been nominated for leasing to oil and gas companies, encompassing classic desert climbing areas. Public comment is open for the next 30 days to prevent leasing the land.

How this guitar-obsessed “5.9-with-a-pack mountain guy” is working with the team at Black Diamond to drive refinement and innovation in their climbing gear

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.

I wanted the send as much as my son. Invested emotionally in his success and full of doubt about my own belaying ability, could I be the partner he needed on his hardest route?

The new facility is purpose-built to help American climbers compete on the international stage and prepare for the Olympics

Where plaisir climbing first came to American soil

Check out Access Fund's author page.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out Hannah Gartner's author page.

The unlikely climbing partners have a 39 year difference in age, but the same unwavering drive to climb hard, climb a lot, push, and learn from one another.

Congress passed the Natural Resources Management Act by a landslide vote on February 26, 2019. The bill is the first-ever piece of federal legislation to include climbing-specific language and protection, and sets an invaluable precedent for the years to come.

Check out Amanda Ashley's author page.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out The Editors's author page.

During the 1960s Ingalls and Layton Kor established many of the most difficult, dangerous, and classic routes in Colorado and Utah together. Ingalls is remembered for his tower climbing, with FA’s of Castleton Tower, the Titan, Standing Rock, and North Six Shooter.

Check out Matt Samet's author page.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out Megan Walsh's author page.

Check out Andrea Laue's author page.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Crack masters Pamela Shanti Pack and Devin Fin get after wild first ascents at Indian Creek, Utah

President Trump announced a massive reduction to both Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monuments in Utah. We spoke to Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson about the implications.

File this under "worst case scenarios."

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out Caleb Sanderson's author page.

Finding—much less sending—the hardest crack in the world isn’t easy. Then add in the hazards of spiders, scorpions, and snakes.

Check out Ula Chrobak's author page.

Check out Carolyn Webber's author page.

From skills, to history, to memoirs, to accidents, these six climbing books will keep the stoke high between sessions on stone.

Check out Zoe Gates's author page.

Scarface is a photographic rite of passage for Indian Creek climbers

All 50 classics, for your climbing pleasure

Climbers, federal land agencies, and locals work to preserve Joe’s Valley

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah, and Red Rock, Nevada

Check out Justen Sjong's author page.

Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall, Sheffield, England

Check out Liz Haas's author page.