10 Climbing Deal-Breakers
Brace yourself for the half-mad rantings of the world’s saltiest, crustiest, least-patient-ever climbing partner.
Brace yourself for the half-mad rantings of the world’s saltiest, crustiest, least-patient-ever climbing partner.
Her mother was "belaying" by holding on tight to the climber's end of the rope with her bare hands. The girl had the Grigri clipped to her harness with the rope running through it.
Lesson learned: “Clip the rope as soon as possible and don't do a figure four with the rope between the legs.”
Having strength and being able to apply strength are two different things. But your training should work both.
Sendhaus™ is the premier facility for affluent millenials that heard rock climbing was a great workout.
Check out Scottie Alexander's author page.
This year also marked the first time the Para Nationals were held during the same week and at the same location as the National Team Trials for the USA National Climbing Team.
The planning of sports training is 10 per cent science and 90 per cent art—but don’t turn your nose up at this 10 per cent!
Was it a freak almost-accident? A parable about life and fate? Both?
With federal land management agencies poised to reinterpret the Wilderness Act and ban bolts in wilderness areas, a new bipartisan bill aims to provide legislative protection for America’s rock climbing
Prevent extended gear from coming unclipped with these tips.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Here are the coolest new lines (and repeats) of late.
The story so far of Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker's journey to send The Recovery Drink (5.14c) in Jøssingfjord, Norway.
A new memoir by alpine guide Majka Burhardt gives readers an honest look at the highs and lows of parenting as a full-time climber.
No need to wait until you can lead 5.12 or poop on a portaledge. If you can lead 5.6 trad, you can climb here, especially if you follow these 10 tips.
After the enormous earthquake in February, one group of Turkish mountaineers headed east, to help in any way they could.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
The Team Trials selected the elite squad that will soon travel around the globe representing the USA at IFSC’s events...with the eventual goal of qualifying for the Paris 2024 Olympics.
We haven’t heard this one before.
SCARY (AND TRUE) TALES FROM A CRAG NEAR YOU
TM Herbert made the first ascent of the Muir Wall with Yvon Chouinard in 1965. His son followed in his footsteps 55 years later, setting a blistering speed record.
You can toss out those dryer sheets. This is your fool-proof, cheap solution for fighting stubborn shoe odor.
We interviewed the 24-year-old Spanish phenom about his new 5.15c. Díaz-Rullo became the eighth climber (and first Spaniard) to climb the grade
"I have a 'two degrees of poop' separation theory, that every climber either has a poop story of their own or a story about a friend somehow getting covered in poo." (From 2015)
"But what really defined Royal Robbins was style. His ethical code was always paramount, even back in the age when getting to the top by any means was enough for most."
"Looking at my career with the perspective of age, I’ve learned that it’s important to maintain your freedom and to follow the things that excite you—not what others expect you to do."
Here are the coolest new routes (and repeats) of late.
When your comfort zone is pushed, you become more curious, more adventurous, more dynamic—a better climber.
Feeling tweaks, aches, and pains? Finding it hard to finish your workouts? Believe that more climbing, more hangboarding, more movement is better? You may be experiencing exercise addiction.
With help just a button push away, deciding when you need a rescue can become the problem. (From 2021)
'Qué mirás' follows a logical line of weakness—splitter cracks, friction dihedrals, and several punchy roofs—up the center of the East Face for 14 long pitches.
Being able to hold and control crimps is one of the most useful skills you can have in your climbing arsenal. (From 2021)
In 1949, in post-war Europe, two students embarked on a great climbing adventure bicycling across the Alps, checking off grand walls and faces that remain sought after, though not without mishap.
The video picks up as Pearson half-crimps some miserable sandstone divots, trying to punch it to the arête.
Last month the company discontinued its Guide Built program, letting go of over 20 athletes in the process. Who’s left? Influencers.
We’re launching a new weekly series celebrating a few outstanding ascents that caught our attention recently. We hope you enjoy it.
It was the deadliest accident of the winter so far in the U.S.
Ethan Pringle calls it "a little piece of France in Northern California.”
The Italian climber reckons the line goes at 5.15c, making it Italy’s hardest route.
The Bloody Mary’s laundry list of features makes it much more than “just” a winter bag.
Editor’s Note: What you are about to read contains a plethora of illegal activities, dangerous climbing techniques, and unsavory lifestyle choices that are in no way condoned or promoted by the editors of Climbing magazine. Read at your own risk.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
"There are kids who are way stronger than me but climbing at the same grades because I have patience. I have strategy." —Lee Sheftel, 71
“I do not believe in God, Inga, but you should start.”
No hate on the belayer here—just a cautionary tale.
As the climbing community struggles to improve representation among sponsored athletes, it might be time for elder statespeople to leave professional climbing behind—or to consider new roles. (A de-paywalled piece from 2021)
The Basque climbers were killed after an ascent of the 'Afanassieff' when a large wet avalanche swept them into a crevasse.
The author grieves for a dog that helped her find her love for climbing again, and then passed too soon.
Chris Sharma, Katie Brown, and Nate Gold put Hampi on the map for Westerners in 2003. Now local climbers are developing climbs and climbing-adjacent businesses. But there are headwinds.
Neil Gresham digs into simulation training—replicating specific moves and segments of routes and problems so you can do the impossible.
All told, it only took about a month of using the R8 Plus (and, taking it easy on the pull-ups!) for my elbow pain to completely dissipate.
Because style matters.
Coaches Justen Sjong and Juan Usubillaga offer tips on how to train on plastic to become better climbers both outside and in.
Filmmakers have bigger budgets, smaller cameras, and new editing technology at their fingertips. They’ve also gotten better at telling nuanced stories.
First ascensionists just want affirmation, for you to pat them on the back and tell them that their pile of a route is "great." Here's how to get that love.
Thinking they were using rope tugs for commands, this beginner belayer took their climber off belay minutes before the climber had finished climbing.
Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.
Season two of 'The Climb' has yet to be announced, but I figured I’d offer HBO some ideas.
“Neither of us anticipated that I would fall to the height her head was … and absolutely boot her into the edge of a flake.”
“This route took me longer than any other route or boulder I’ve ever tried,” he says, but he’s nonetheless hesitant to give it a grade.
When the BLM proposed a fee and reservation system for Calico Basin, the local climbing community and Access Fund fought to make sure their voice was heard.
Internationally certified mountain guide Marc Chauvin shares three tips for climbing more-adventurous routes.
Over the last decade, climbing gyms have become “cool.” But doesn't it feel like our community has lost something?
When one of the world’s best crack climbers was grounded by chronic fatigue syndrome, his life became an uphill struggle just to feel human again.
The National Park Service has acquired 105 acres of land, and the Idaho Department of Parks and Recreation purchased 260 acres, all land that had previously been privately owned and had limited access for use.
Three greenhorn wall climbers headed up the Big Stone in 1981. They vowed to reach the top or nearly die trying. They got their wish.
The void swallowed him alive, his streaking form more easily imagined than described. The air froze in my chest.
These historic areas are still amazing destinations today.
Dry tooling is increasingly popular. Here’s why Will Gadd thinks this unique form of climbing may be the next big thing.
"Notice I didn’t mention aesthetics. I’m not climbing a painting. The only aesthetics I worry about are the graphs of my sends on 8a.nu and the topography of my chiseled back muscles."
Given that I used to be a brash, loud-mouthed punk—though have since aged into “charmingly” salty—I’ve been on the receiving end of a few slanderous route names, which, because I have no “boundaries” or “shame” or “self-esteem,” I will now share with you.
The tent flap was thrown open and I saw, or thought I saw, a hooded figure, waving a gloved hand and yelling, “Come on. Get over here!” I was worse off than I thought. Seeing and hearing things.
After losing her friend to a rappelling accident and her father to a heart attack, our writer grapples with what it means to lead a well-lived life.
Just because the rock is bomber doesn’t mean the fixed gear is.
Cat Runner, 24, discusses his victorious effort on the reality show, and the hurdles he’s overcome as a transgender athlete.
Instead of lowering to the ground, you can often “boink” back up to your last quickdraw by pulling up on the rope, unweighting, and allowing your belayer to quickly take in slack.
Upper and Upper Upper Chaos Canyon were closed due to a rockslide this summer. The extent of the closures may be the result of pre-existing tensions caused by bad climber behavior.
I was young, dumb, and ambitious. But I should have known that 5.10 slab wasn’t a great place to start.
In doing so, she became only the second American woman to tick the grade.