Weekend Whipper: Why Belayers Should Always Wear a Helmet
“Neither of us anticipated that I would fall to the height her head was … and absolutely boot her into the edge of a flake.”
“Neither of us anticipated that I would fall to the height her head was … and absolutely boot her into the edge of a flake.”
“This route took me longer than any other route or boulder I’ve ever tried,” he says, but he’s nonetheless hesitant to give it a grade.
When the BLM proposed a fee and reservation system for Calico Basin, the local climbing community and Access Fund fought to make sure their voice was heard.
Internationally certified mountain guide Marc Chauvin shares three tips for climbing more-adventurous routes.
Over the last decade, climbing gyms have become “cool.” But doesn't it feel like our community has lost something?
When one of the world’s best crack climbers was grounded by chronic fatigue syndrome, his life became an uphill struggle just to feel human again.
The National Park Service has acquired 105 acres of land, and the Idaho Department of Parks and Recreation purchased 260 acres, all land that had previously been privately owned and had limited access for use.
Three greenhorn wall climbers headed up the Big Stone in 1981. They vowed to reach the top or nearly die trying. They got their wish.
The void swallowed him alive, his streaking form more easily imagined than described. The air froze in my chest.
These historic areas are still amazing destinations today.
Dry tooling is increasingly popular. Here’s why Will Gadd thinks this unique form of climbing may be the next big thing.
"Notice I didn’t mention aesthetics. I’m not climbing a painting. The only aesthetics I worry about are the graphs of my sends on 8a.nu and the topography of my chiseled back muscles."
Given that I used to be a brash, loud-mouthed punk—though have since aged into “charmingly” salty—I’ve been on the receiving end of a few slanderous route names, which, because I have no “boundaries” or “shame” or “self-esteem,” I will now share with you.
The tent flap was thrown open and I saw, or thought I saw, a hooded figure, waving a gloved hand and yelling, “Come on. Get over here!” I was worse off than I thought. Seeing and hearing things.
After losing her friend to a rappelling accident and her father to a heart attack, our writer grapples with what it means to lead a well-lived life.
Just because the rock is bomber doesn’t mean the fixed gear is.
Runner, 24, discusses his victorious effort on the reality show, and the hurdles he’s overcome as a transgender athlete
Instead of lowering to the ground, you can often “boink” back up to your last quickdraw by pulling up on the rope, unweighting, and allowing your belayer to quickly take in slack.
Upper and Upper Upper Chaos Canyon were closed due to a rockslide this summer. The extent of the closures may be the result of pre-existing tensions caused by bad climber behavior.
I was young, dumb, and ambitious. But I should have known that 5.10 slab wasn’t a great place to start.
In doing so, she became only the second American woman to tick the grade.
Alpine environments are infinitely complex—but for Gadd that is part of their allure.
With the help of digital scans, Athos is creating shoes that climbers won’t downsize.
Canada’s Vampire Spires are an impossibly rugged range in a seldom-visited wilderness. Follow contributor Jeff Achey on a rollicking amphibious assault: 100 miles by raft down the rowdy Nahanni River, followed by a first ascent to an untouched summit.
Learning how to build an “anchor in-series” will not only give you a solid option for bad rock, but also offers numerous solutions if you run into any other tricky anchor scenarios.
In 1976, Nanda Devi Unsoeld, the daughter of legendary alpinist Willi Unsoeld, died while climbing the massive Indian peak for which she was named. Decades later, friends, family, and surviving expedition members offer new insights into what went wrong during this controversial adventure, shedding light on an enigmatic young woman who lived without limits.
Turner was a fixture in the Colorado climbing scene, and he helped set a precedent for positive climber-land manager interface that has become a model throughout Colorado, and perhaps America.
Insecure rock climber (and badass alpinist) Nick Bullock gets a little perspective on an everyday trip to his local crag.
One very real concern, the filmer said, was the climber’s rope cutting over the sharp ironstone edge.
By proposing V16 for his new problem, The Megg, Gabe Lawson propels Canadian bouldering to the next level—and brings a new spotlight on himself.
This article was originally published in Climbing No 371. It's appearing now in front of the paywall for the first time.
"I used to be a bit of a rock climber myself. Now I haven't so much as touched a hold in—gosh, how long has it been?—four or five weeks."
Andrea, a conversion van, sports a mobile climbing wall to bring the sport to underserved communities.
“We know in certain sports like horse racing, where lightness is favorable, that if jockeys weigh in too low on the morning of a race, they ride with additional weights. Climbers should too.”
It has been a long-standing goal of mine to join the elite group of women who have climbed 5.14a on gear, and I’ve trained my ass off to do so. Here’s what I learned in the process.
This unlikely climbing crew hasn't let age stop them from having a good time. In fact, some things are better than ever. We asked them how they do it.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
The alpine knee isn’t always the move. Here’s what happens when it goes wrong.
As a prologue, it should be noted that all three of us—Baqar Gelashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, and I—feel grateful to have lived this adventure. The whole escapade felt like a return to a romantic era of mountaineering, yet in a natural, ecological style, with a small circle of friends, dishing out a powerful test of our capabilities.
Mischa Ylva Ostberg’s upcycled climbing rope designs are intricate and unique. It’s easy to look at Ostberg’s designs and be overcome with nostalgia for the places you’ve been, the views you’ve seen.
Climbing in Sri Lanka, a nation of 22 million people, is so under-developed that it largely owes its existence to one man... who of course hopes to change that.
Second Choice (5.11) is a striking splitter with its steepest moves near the top.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
'The Crack in The Cosmic Egg’ is a 10-pitch aid route on Mt. Moroni. It went free at 5.13- R in November 2021.
The Superset 30 truly has a place for everything.
'Fall' is an edge-of-your-seat ride of whompers, pröösiks, hand-wenching, vulture attacks, free-fall and free-ball rappels, one-armed max hangs, and finally, an epic trundle for the ages. Four stars.
Cassy Doolittle, 25, was caught in a storm on Christmas Day, returning to camp after a solo of Aguja Guillaumet.
Michael Wejchert’s first book profiles four keen climbers, their unlikely rescue from an obscure Alaskan peak, and the physical and emotional cost of living through it.
Use this expert advice to never lose touch with your partner on a long route.
Climbers must build strength, encourage flexibility, and practice proper movement patterns—throughout the body—to prevent injury.
When we talk about our training, we usually default to talking about how much we do. We talk about hours spent under the hangboard, or how we climbed late into the evening at the crag. Yet the thing we tend to miss, and that is a bigger key to progress, is quality: What, precisely, did we do with those hours and how focused were we?
Some love a nice cold beer after a long day's crimping. Others worry it will limit their strength gains. Who's right?
With perhaps the exception of Rumney, Lone Rock may possess New England’s highest concentration of 5.13-on-up sport climbs for a wall its size.
The AAC has chosen a new title for its annual honor, which was previously named after mountaineering pioneers Robert L.H. and Miriam Underhill.
Because I care about your soul—but probably mainly because I’m old, grumpy, and easily annoyed, especially when I’m just trying to get in a quick, hassle-free workout.
Instead of spending your climbs untangling a rope, learn a few simple methods that will help you spend more time sending.
“Woo was pretty pumped and fixated on the final hard sequence. He forgot to clip the bolt, did the moves, and then slipped off.”
HBO Max’s new show, ‘The Climb,’ airs today.
Bouin FA’d the route, “Nordic Marathon,” earlier this year. It ascends through the steepest part of the Hanshelleren Cave and gives a new definition to the word long.
Hesam Mousavi, a prominent rock climbing and highline instructor, was among the detainees. Climbing spoke with his ex-girlfriend, Nazanin Roshanshah, to get a better understanding of the situation.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Senate Bill 168 gave SAR volunteers legal immunity and—hopefully—the money they need to keep climbers, hikers, and paddlers safe.
You train, buy the best gear, stay stoked and try to give yourself every advantage on the rock or in the gym, but you run out of energy part way through. You aren't eating the right foods.
Most of us train using unscientific and unproven methods. Here's what the experts say you should and shouldn't be doing.
Kelly, a non-climber who got dragged to the crag by her obsessive-climber boyfriend, faces off against him.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.