Many climbers settle into a niche discipline in the vast expanse of the climbing universe. Some—for better or worse—get so stuck at their grade that their personalities begin to mimic the rocks and routes they choose to climb.
Addiction. Encounters with death. The weight of everything, including happiness. Here are five personal essays about the intersection of climbing and dark manifestations.
Snell’s Field, the alpine climbers’ version of Camp 4 outside Chamonix, France, was for 20-odd years a squalid (if free) conglomeration of makeshift rain shelters, tents and rolling wrecks typically populated by British, American and German alpinists, none of whom especially liked the others.
One of the world's best (and least developed) sandstone trad areas is in Liming, in China's Yunnan province. It's a pretty special place.
The crags are getting busy. If you want to send, you’ll need to set up camp. Here’s how.
When your rope is stuck, you ain’t going nowhere. Here are my hard-won tips for getting your rope unstuck and—even better—preventing it from happening in the first place.
People like to be liked and noticed. But this guy took it way too far.
Alex Honnold's free solo of El Capitan did not occur in a bubble of solitude and inspiration. In this archive piece, originally published shortly after Honnold's ascent, James Lucas dives into the story (and backstory) of Honnold's path to Freerider.
Shinichiro Nomura, 25, sent "Gakido" (V16), in Fukushima, Japan–a project that had denied 20 years of attempts.
Pro climber Heather Weidner discusses the pros and cons of two tie-in knots.
Your fingers are strong, but what about your brain? Can you solve this week's mind twister?
The World Cup circuit swung through Chamonix, France, this weekend for a World Cup extravaganza that included Speed and Lead disciplines.
This guy had his partner lower him but she wasn't anchored. Luckily a guide was nearby to intervene.
In his most recent history-making run, Katibin clocked a time of 5.009 seconds.
Patagonia’s DAS Parka is warm, lightweight, and designed for climbers. Pricey, but worth the investment.
Turns out, it's pretty easy to make a mistake you know better than to make—but pretty hard to admit having done so.
Indeed, all is well until it’s not.
Alpamayo was supposed to be easy. Until it wasn't.
Michaela Kiersch discusses the importance of running, weight lifting, and injury prevention exercises to her training regimen.
Jeff Long led a world-class team to climb the uncharted west face of Makalu. The attempt failed, and he was held responsible for an illegal act by an ousted member.
Debris injures eight other climbers.
Slopers may be the most feared hold in climbing. But with the proper technique and training you needn't worry anymore.
A no-frills all-arounder that does well across disciplines, especially in the gym.
Vasu Sojitra lost a leg, but that hasn't kept him out of the mountains and going big.
The routes and boulder problems featured at World Cups are more complex than they used to be. Are they also more dangerous?
"The Bird" was a leading and often controversial Yosemite climber who overlapped with the Valley's "Golden Era" that included Royal Robbins and Warren Harding, and the Stonemasters, for whom he was the defacto leader. Here, he muses over what was then the new concept of detailed climbing grades, and how ego affects ratings—thinking that still applies.
He dropped into a 40-foot crevasse in British Columbia, and the lights went out. When they came back on, it hurt.
As climbers, we can—perhaps all too easily—make sense of a comrade falling to their death. It’s a grim reality, but we understand that these things happen. If you climb long enough, you will lose people.
Climbing is a skill sport and resting is a skill. Better learn it.
Will Bosi, 23, completed a long-standing 5.15a project at Dumbarton.
Sometimes those streak-and-solo missions don’t go quite according to plan.
Escape summer’s heat and smoke by ice climbing in a “glacial pothole.”
Progressing from weekend cragging to long alpine routes can be intimidating for anyone, even strong and competent traditional climbers.
The tougher you are mentally, the easier tough things will feel and the quicker you can recalibrate in the face of adversity.
Climbing requires a sharp mind to unlock sequences and remember them. Our Rebus puzzle is here to help.
It was a World Cup filled with surprises: Garnbret off the back in qualifiers. World speed champ misfires. But Team USA once again adds to its medal collection.
Enter to win a lightweight, durable backcountry kit. Carry less, enjoy more!
In the first installment of his “Hidden Gems” series, the French rock star does hard first ascents at Thaurac. Never heard of it? It's home to something like 1,000 limestone sport routes.
On June 28, a rockslide occurred on the southside of Hallett Peak, destroying classic boulders in Upper Upper Chaos Canyon.
Eight tips for climbing safely in loose terrain.
With a final time of 5.04 seconds Katibin is within reach of the mythical sub-5-second bar, a time that was thought untouchable just a few years ago.
Enter to win a pair of Scarpa’s new INSTINCT S, perfect for steep sport climbing, bouldering, and training
Hand-placed beaks, anyone?
Young athletes predominantly succeed over aged veterans within most strength-to-weight ratio sports. In climbing, how much does age matter?
In the backcountry, a lightweight, durable, weatherproof kit lets you focus on what really matters
“Once the hearing community and Deaf community partner, it’s deeper than just climbing. It’s cultural awareness, language acquisition, really A-Z on understanding different communities.”
Crack climbing wizard JP “Peewee” Ouellet shares how to use rubber, tape, and glue to climb off-size splitters without destroying your skin.
A warm invite to climb in Montana —just don’t expect a mint on your pillow
When tackling trad routes, every piece of protection counts. Use this quick, easy hack to reduce the risk of cross-loaded carabiners on your slung cams, keeping your fall as short and safe as possible.
In 2017, Anak Verhoeven became the second woman in history to climb 5.15. Since then, she has ticked off four more of the grade.
"Your climbing shoes are your tools and should be treated as such."
Restricting the times you eat is trendy, and evidence points to potential benefits in sleep, weight management, and generating a faster metabolism, as well as better liver health and a reduction in inflammatory and metabolic disorders. But is it for you?
Core exercises—you love to hate them! But your climbing will thank you.
Climbers often try to increase their strength-to-weight ratios by simply cutting calories. But not all calories were created equal.
Emulating what elite climbers do makes no sense. Here's what you should actually do to achieve your personal goals.
Ph.D., biophysical chemist, author, executive director of Green Science Policy Institute.
Alaska’s driest spring in recent memory provided ideal conditions for the 9,000-foot ice and mixed climb.
No surprises from Garnbret, but Team USA knocked it out of the park.
This guy used 27 pieces of gear for one anchor, and that wasn't his only mistake.
And the apparel manufacturer joins a growing number of companies that have pledged to cover travel costs for employees who must go to a different state to seek abortion care.
Zangerl has been developing in Rakchham, a Himalayan village, for over a decade. He hopes climbers will support the local economy while preserving the area’s pristine wilderness.
The end of a climbing trip can be a glorious, chain-slapping time—but there's another side to this romanticism.
Rappelling is one of climbing's most dangerous acts. Mark Synnott, through decades of experience, has figured out various techniques he learned the hard way so you don't have to.
There are better ways to develop body awareness than mumbling expletives in Downward Dog.
The Howe Sound’s most famous cliff is Stawamus Chief, but across the water lies some of the finest granite sport, trad, and deep-water soloing in North America.
High-gravity days aren't sourceless malignancies; they have causes, which means they have solutions.
On June 19, a wildfire ravaged the historic cliffside near Oliana, Spain, destroying world-class routes.
Field Tested: the 2022 Katana Lace.
So your buddy tells you that he took a Factor 2 over the weekend, eh? That sounds bad. Or is it? What does that even mean? Read on for everything you need to know about falling, but were afraid to ask.
Lookout Mountain was seen as “off limits” by the city’s Black communities—until local students helped reclaim the blocks.
The second Paraclimbing World Cup of the year took place in Innsbruck, Austria June 21 and 22.
The author was young, stoked on life and had a sweet loaner van to tool around Europe in. The trip ended with a real bang.
Like most climbers you probably train by developing your lats, pulling down rather than squeezing or pushing, but climbing often demands a variety of techniques including using "non holds" such as opposing slopers.
High in a remote alpine valley in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca, the most pristine limestone in the Americas is at risk of being swallowed by a colossal open-pit mine.
100 new routes opened in Saudi Arabia’s first climbing festival.
In the past I’d had the same concerns, but this time it all hit me again. That could have been me.
These meals are a worthy option for overnight climbers and campers who want to eat real, delicious food with a finite lifespan.
Check out David Flanagan's author page.
This six-week program will hone you to climb the classics, whether it's a mountain, wall or long free route.
Why optimizing the strength-to-weight ratio through weight loss is bad beta